Lokz

iTrader: (1)

Last weekend my fuel pump went out, so i replaced it with one today and it took quiet a few cranks to get her even to start with the new pump. Once she started i let her warm up nice and easy while i put the whole interior back together. Once that was done i went for a test drive and everything seemed pretty good. Getting 10:1 AFR on full throttle everything looked like it was back to normal and i was happy. I go home with my friend and drink a beer chill all happy with the success. I go out again to start her and she doesnt want to start again,at this point i was completely lost and confused on what might have gone wrong. I just let the car sit where it was parked, all i can think off is Fuel pump ECU and feel like doing the modd, it has brand new coil packs and spark plugs maybe 2000 miles on them. I am taking that out of the equation. How would i test the ignitor? Any help? PLEASE!
- Thanks in advance,
-Lokz

Brianmoss

There's 3 bolts that let you access the fuel pump undo them and wire brush them off and clean the contact area. I had the same problem and that's what fixed it. Those 3 bolts are the ground to your fuel pump so try that.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

"All I can think of is fuel pump ecu and I feel like doing the modd"

WTF?

Why would you test the igniter before doing the most basic necessary upgrade to these chassis'.
There is zero logic in leaving the fuel pump ecu in place doing its "job".

Lokz

iTrader: (1)

^^ are you saying that it is a necessary thing to do the 12V modd when you go GTE? If you think i threw another factory pump on it, no i didnt. I had walbro before i went gte and now i have 2nd walbro cus first one didnt last.

I wanted to test my ignitor to make sure it wasnt ****ed up, but i guess i can do that with pulling my coils out and throwing a spark tester on it.

@ Brainmoss ; This is a NO POWER issue after further messing with it, not a ground issue. Also there is a connector on the other side of the tank which you access from your trunk. You can test for power and ground there itself, you dont need to open your interior to see if you got power and ground.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

12v mod is necessary with just having this car swapped or not because the ****ing fuel pump ecu is a pile of ****. I bet you're old pump is fine. Stop bein lazy and take the 5 minutes to bypass the fuel ecu. It's the first thing I do on my personal cars and customer cars. Piece of mind, because these things can and will leave you stranded.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Vrank is correct in assuming your fuel problem is the ecu since you have replaced the pump.
No need to switch tracks and jump to the ignition, it is also possible it was the fuel ecu the entire time.
I would do the quick version of the bypass on the fuel ecu to test it and if that is it either replace it with a working one or do a separate relay for the fuel pump, you can probably trigger it off of the input wire to the fuel relay that tells it which speed to use to retain the safety shutoff, but I have not done it so I can't tell you exactly how or which wires to use. Do a search on bypassing the fuel ecu.

It is good to have for safety reasons so I leave mine connected now but if the fuel stops that would be the first place I would check it is a known problem and more often the fuel ecu than the pump itself.

Lokz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys! Let me try that. Lets see how it does, will update tomorrow.

Lokz

iTrader: (1)

Update!
Did 12V modd it started, put everything back together no start condition again, cranks like a champ still no start. Threw a spark tester - No spark. 12V on Injectors but NO Pulse, threw another ignitor on it, still nothing. Put my old ignitor back now im no where because i dont have any diagram for ignition/ fuel system where i can trace it out. Any ideas, anyone. Where should i go next?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

open up your ecu and look for blown capacitors.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Codes , codes , codes did you try pulling codes?

Lokz

iTrader: (1)

Codes? I hooked up toyota scanner but no codes. Surprisingly my CEL does not work out of no where, as in when i turn the KOEO position the CEL does not even come on now. I guess i had the EFI pulled out for long enough for it clear every code that was even stored in the first place. But CEL should still come on for a few seconds before it turns off for the functioning purpose.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Because there is no cel function, I suspect ecu even more. The ecu is what triggers the cel after all. Listen to Ali and check your ecu.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

3rd the motion to check the ecu or at least check your getting power to it which assuming your car is wired right it should have power seeing as injectors/ignition is receiving power. which means at least the igsw/mrel portion of the show is working. But it only takes 5 minutes to check so start there.

Lokz

iTrader: (1)

Will update monday.
^^ Vrank are you saying to check for power on the ECU, by checking if i am getting 12V to the B+ terminal (C86 plug) on the ecu ,this is a soarer ECU with Tweak harness. So i dont think my car will be wired up wrong, lets hope that it is not and if im not getting 12V just open up ECU and go for new caps or go another ECU? I dont even know anyone around with a 1JZ so i could use their ECU and find the culprit. But i will surely come back monday.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If you think the harness is good open up the ecu. most all the 1jz ecu's are going to fail at some point and need new capacitors/repairs. start by opening up the ecu and looking at the capacitors (cylinder shaped standing straight up with 2 prongs), and look for burnt spots underneath them that look like a spill. If you see that then you need to send your ecu out for repairs, unless you can do electrical work and change them yourself, really depends on how damaged it looks.

start by opening it up and having a look around. its a 1jz ecu, so its already suspect of that problem since they are older and a known problem. if you are unsure post up a picture of the insides.