KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I've read O.L.T.'s DIY thread for the cheaper heater control valve fix. I haven't ruled that out but I want to verify this first.

I found this in another thread earlier today which I can't find the source of any longer:

A local lexus gave me the following part numbers 88690-24060 ($225) for the VSV and 87240-24040 ($325) for the whole water control valve unit. It's much less at Carson's and I just ordered my VSV today

So I'm aware that 87240-24040 is the entire overpriced heater control assembly @ $440+.

What exactly is the 88690-24060 VSV portion? Is that the main part of the full assembly that goes bad? Because if so that's well under half the cost of the entire assembly for an OEM part.

Again, I'm aware O.L.T. found an inexpensive solution. I just want to verify if this other part also solves the issue before moving ahead.

Thanks all.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

The vsc is separate and could be bad but this thread is for replacing the second part that is more expensive. That's a huge amount to pay for a vsv, you can probably get a used one for under $40. Possibly much less than that even.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Ali. Between a transmission rebuild and A/C work I'm very open to his solution. Okay, so the VSV isn't part of the same assembly-- answers that. If my control valve is leaking a bit of coolant then it's not going to be the same issue anyway.

I haven't tested my heater in this hot weather though.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah its basically 2 parts, the part where the coolant flows through opens and closes with vacuum, and the vsv just controls when the vacuum gets applied to it. If the vsv went bad, you could just connect the 2 lines on the vsv together to bypass it and this will make coolant flow all the time through there (handy if vsv is broken in winter and you are freezing all the time). If it is leaking its probably not the vsv. maybe just check the clamps are on nice and tight on the control unless its leaking from the body of the valve then do the mod as OLT's guide.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Ali, thank you for explaining that to me. Hopefully my VSV will stay healthy over this winter so I won't need to deal with it too.

After reading through O.L.T.'s thread again I found a post from someone who recommended a series of potentially identical (to OEM) Everco heater control valves. I found an identical Four Seasons version, model #74641. It looks nearly identical to the OEM Lexus valve and has the arm angled in the same direction as OEM. The mounting points look near the same too. It's intended for use on a Camry 4cyl. I figure I can re-use my OEM metal valve arm and have a perfect fit.

I'll report back when it comes in the mail.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

sounds good keep us posted if it works well.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I posted in O.L.T.'s thread earlier. My valve didn't fail but it did snap off at the block hose connection while I was changing my valve cover gaskets and spark plugs. The Four Seasons #74641 did not work correctly concerning the direction the valve opens and the alignment of the arm mounting guide.

However... it looks identical to the Lexus valve, bolts in as if it were made for the heater control assembly, and allows the Lexus valve arm to mount with exactly the same template guide. It's a VERY close try, just not the correct operation despite the fact that the arms on both units point in the same direction. They rotate in opposite directions and the arm mounting guides on the top of both assemblies face in different directions, thus locking the arms into place differently. Very promising though. This looks to be a common valve design for Toyota.

I am going to my local Autozone tomorrow to try an Everco (same as Four Seasons) #74637 valve. Barring that, I will try the #74636 and then the #74004.

Aside... my block hose connection to the valve has plastic pieces of the original HCV fused to the inside of it. I'm mulling replacing the entire hose with the factory part but it looks awfully hard to get access to the clamp at the rear of the engine while it's in the car.

mikef

iTrader: (3)

you can bypass it and just plug it directly in to it, im not 100% sure why they even bothered with a heater control valve

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Mikef, why do you say that? I know it can be bypassed but surely there is a function to the valve that the heating system requires for normal operation.

mikef

iTrader: (3)

I just found out why lol, if bypassed, it will constantly run thru the heater core. so if the ac is off and just blowing, you will feel a little heat. Im going to test this tomorrow.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

^^ That's what I remember reading, yes.

I've now ruled out the Four Seasons (aka Everco) #74641 and #74637 due to the arm rotation direction although they otherwise fit perfectly and look identical. Next I will try the #74636 and #74004.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I tried #74004 today and it was the same as with the first two.

#74636 will be in tomorrow for me to try.

Update:

So I recalled talking with the guy at the Autozone store I've been going to and he owns an MKIII Supra Turbo. He mentioned that the HCV assembly for his Supra looked very similar to mine and that he was having a hard time looking for a new valve himself.

So I researched here:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...ol-valve/page2

And especially here:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...-valve-bypass&

And this led me to the Four Seasons / Everco #74850 heater control valve. Unlike the others so far, this one has an arm moving 45-degrees in the CORRECT direction. If you look it up anywhere for sale you can see that the arm's direction arrow is facing correctly. It also appears to bolt up just like the others do.

I'll be ordering one of them tomorrow to test along with the #74636 (which I now think won't work either but who knows).

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

SOLVED

The Everco (aka Four Seasons) Heater Valve #74636 is a near identical fit for our heater control assemblies. The unit fits and the arm rotates in the correct direction for open and closed.

It's possible the #74850 assembly will also work but at this point I won't be testing it. As long as your vacuum solenoid section still works, this is a cheap $33 identical valve you can use to repair your HCV.

Pictures to follow soon.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

awesome, thanks for the leg work sounds like you went through quite a bit of fiddling.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Ali, thanks! Not so much as you'd think though. I just compared valves at a parts store every day until I found one that fit the bill. My car was already down while waiting for new PCV parts. Now the battle I had with my EGR pipe bolts (those removable 5mm things that you have to take in and out to access both valve covers)... THAT was a nightmare.

But hopefully this will help owners. I'll do a little DIY writeup to document it. It won't help if the vacuum solenoid or electric actuator are bad but if it's just the plastic valve it sure beats the alternatives.