Shanman89

Well guys I have been searching and searching and I cant find what the specs are for the lowest I can have the head machined w stock headgasket. I have a stock HG already for 1jzgte but just had my head shaved down .010 will this be fine with stock HG? And the guy charged me $160 for a SHAVED HEAD, is that normal? I realize I am near Boston but Holy freekin moly, heads at home only cost me $25 a pop, Thanks in advance.

Drift101

you will have to do some calulating to make sure you got enough room with the stock head gasket, i don't think it will be that bad might up the compression a little bit, you won't have to worry about valves hitting the pistons, if that is your main concern

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

If its a stock 1J head and this is the first pass on the head with stock cams a OEM factory 2JZGTE gasket will be fine. you will just get a little more compression!

Shanman89

I just didnt want it messing with the timing or valves mainly, it is a 1jzgte headgasket WITH the arrow. I am running 93 so I was hoping it would be fine for compression as well.

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

So you got a true 1jz head gasket to replace the original one?

The OEM 2JZGTE HG is the norm when replacing or decking the head and putting in some ARP studs!!!

Shanman89

I guess it doesnt matter now , I picked the head up today, and he told me he shaved off .015, wanted to punch him in the face, WHY would you say .010 when u did .015, now I am sure I will need a thicker gasket, bc I have to do the flippin block now, I will measure it Sat. and keep updating for the next nut who blows his HG
Lil FYI for the crazy warpage value, I was roadcoursing the car at Pocono, which btw was the best money I ever spent with my car, but damn did it cost me later for 1 little coolant leak from the heater control valve.

Shanman89

Yes I got the HG from some body 2 yrs back when I wanted to regasket the entire engine, At that time the 2jz HG from what I read matched but not perfect like a 1J so, I paid a lil more, oh well, at least now I put in Rod, Main, and Head studs

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

I doubt even .015" is an issue. That's just not that much material in the scheme of things. People deck heads and blocks all the time, and I doubt the combined removal is less than .015". I'm sure a more experienced builder can offer a more concrete opinion on this, but the numbers you are quoting are too low to matter in my book. Slight bump in compression, and the tensioner should pick that tiny bit of extra slack up without issue. Just my opinion and its worth the price charged.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah the squish is supossed to be around .060, so taking off up to .02 once I would say you should be alright unless you have a vvti, then all bets are off. Since you have a regular 1j you should be fine, I wonder if the 2jz gasket is even thicker though. and an even smaller squish is supposed to be optimal up to .03, so you will bump up your compression a touch and reduce squish, its almost a performance mod. you could get a gasket that is .3mm thicker and you would be back at square one but I would just go with the stock or a 2jz one removing so little material (I am assuming they are same thickness).

I did read the 2jz headgasket provides better cooling to cylinder 6 on the exhaust side. that can be a big deal if you are pushing the motor, and if thats the case I would order a 2jz one.

If you think that is bad I am throwing together a GE and the machine shop took .025 off to get the head straight, so instead of using the ge gasket and having a higher than stock compression (squish would be near optimal though), I decided to get a gte gasket to drop the compression some but all in all it will end up well for me this motor will be somewhere between stock and what my na-t is running compression wise, which is fine with me.

Shanman89

I ordered a 87mm x 1.5, since i had .015 or .38mm taken off then i am going thicker, i do not wanna up the compression since i would like to go single later on, wanna stay around the same CR to run more boost and have a little more top end, since the stock gasket size is 1.2 i am effectively dropping the CR slightly, but thats fine for me i am racing Watkins Glen in 2 weeks.

However I did happen to take the short block apart, vat it, put in ARP rod and Main studs, the bearings looked fine, no i didnt plasti-gage, but its back together and will be awaiting the HG this Friday

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Cool, good luck with it man. Hopefully the rods and mains will be okay without align honing and big end resizing. I know some people who have done what you did and not had any problems, but lots of builders swear the machining is necessary.

Shanman89

I thought about the align honing, but after getting the head back and being charged what I was, (M******* prices)I am in a time/money crunch and it became a nogo. Since I am running the same bearings and took the mains out in like 4 passes, should be fine. The big end resizing I'm not too worried bc of the rods being so strong and plenty of people have done the ARP rod bolts w/o resizing.

If money permitted I would of bought another 1j block w/ r154 and done a complete refresh along with align hone and 9k balance

For the roadcourse that will probably be needed later on down the road.