dorikin717

so an introduction to my problems, iv got a 95 sc300 with a soarer 1jzgte. swap went smooth and after extending the harness i thought i was good to go, but i was wrong. in neutral i can rev out all day no problems, but as soon as i try to drive it cuts out at 3000 to 4000 rpm. ive changed plugs, check my map sensor, cleaned the tps, checked all my vacuums, checked all my grounds,i did the 12v mod for the fuel pump, and i jumped my starter. the car has probably sitting for about a month now due to this problem. im stuck and i need some help, this is my first lexus after switching from the s-chassis crowd.

any advice, help, or hints would be much appreciated.

Cleanshots

iTrader: (2)

what is it trying to boost to when you drive?
is it trying to boost to infinite?
and what plugs are you running?
auto or manual?
what are you running for boost controller?
and what exhaust system is on the car..(specs)

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

confirm timing belt was done correctly. Some nissan kid sold me his 1j after he couldn't do the timing belt right. Told me the ecu was bad and ls1 was better. got the engine in,same symptoms, turns out it was one tooth off.

Cleanshots

iTrader: (2)

this.. lol

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

Check ecu for cap leakage.

dorikin717

i havent checked timing yet, but as far as other specs go

-5speed r154
-open down pipe
-cutting out going into boost
-ngk v-power copper plugs
-no boost controller

LexusLove1

coming from boosted dsm's I would check for a BOOST LEAK!!!!! Do you have a wideband controller? I bet you are going super rich once you start to build boost. Otherwise, I would say maybe you are getting spark blow out but that doesnt occur until you get into higher psi.

I would definitely boost leak test.


If I had to put money on it you are leaking severe boost.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Great video for the diy people.

dorikin717

thanks for all the replies guys, but i have another question. is there any wiring that needs to be done besides the check engine light?

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

So I quoted myself ^^^^^^^^^^^ for a reason!!!!

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

^ this guy knows his stuff. Check the ecu. It's one of the first things you should do when getting the swap in the mail or wherever it came from. Also check your timing marks. Your question about the other stuff besides check engine light makes me think you shouldn't be touching this at all without at least 5 hours more research on what it takes to make this work.

Also, don't waste your time with boost leaks on your speed/density based 1j. If your car had a maf sensor then you'd have a reason to be concerned.

Another thing, read the other thread about 1j cutting out on the same page as this one. There's lots of things to check after the initial obvious type things.

dorikin717

ok so i opened up the ecu this morning and all the resistors look good and there are no burn marks on the board.

and as far as research goes, i have looked everywhere for answers and came up with nothing, that's why im in desperate need for some help.
ill admit i probably bit off more than i can chew at this point, like i said i have a pretty extensive background in s-chassis so this is a whole new word for me.

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

get a loaner ecu and try it I'LL bet its the ecu fuel caps!!!!

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

You may also wanna check the coolant temp sensor wiring and sensor, when they go bad the engine goes into limp mode.

dorikin717

interesting my coolant temp sensor is bad im pretty sure, when i have it plugged in it just pegs to hot after 5 or so minutes, i did the splice to ground method on it.