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SC300 Hesitation, Idle Issues, Rich Exhaust Smell, etc....

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Old 08-07-13, 10:52 AM
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CatManD3W
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Exclamation SC300 Hesitation, Idle Issues, Rich Exhaust Smell, etc....

I am agetting codes 24, 28 and 31, I am able to unplug the Karmen Vortex sensor completely and the engine running doesnt change at all...Do you think it would be good to replace the MAF sensor to start as well as the o2 sensors?

Is the idle supposed to react when I unplug the MAF? Is it supposed to shudder or something?

I would also like to find out an answer for this.....my idle is fine but when i get up to 3k in rpm range it is really sluggish and gets stuck in the 3k -4k range....it runs great but when I step on it and it gets up to that range it boggs down..would you suggest getting another MAF and replacing the o2 sensor to start...btw I have owned the car for 2 months and this problem just started to happen...sometimes it even stalls out on me when I fire it up every once in a while.

I have tried a different ecu on mine as well and it made it worse....checked all vacuum lines and they are good....I can only suspect it has to be the MAF or o2 sensors...

I have already replaced cap, rotor, plug wires and spark plugs..and tried a different ECU


What would you guys recommend to start with first?
Old 08-07-13, 11:13 AM
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Ali SC3
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this one does sound like the maf, when you unplug it there should be a change.
I would start with trying another maf.
the o2 code could just be a result of the maf and is less important than the other 2.
If you can get the maf codes to clear then I would probably get new o2's at that point if the code is still there.
Old 08-07-13, 11:59 AM
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Thanks Ali SC3...I am sourcing a MAF from a member. It couldnt hurt to replace the o2 sensors as well what would you recommend for o2 sensors

Toyota Part : 89465-29505 or Denso 234-1054
Old 08-07-13, 01:11 PM
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Confirm you have the 1 wire type o2 sensor and yes those would work I generally just get the Denso universal ones to save the most money.

The one you listed is an oem fit that comes with the connector which is just a simple unplug the old connector and sensor, and plug in the new one.

You can get the same sensor in universal form and that is a Denso 234-1057, I like to order them online usually amazon is pretty competitive but check prices online. this one you need to cut the connector off your old sensor with a few inches of wire to work with, strip the wire some and use the included crimp connector to join the old connector to the new sensor. you simply stick both ends of the stripped wire into the connector, and then crush it down with some pliers or if you have a stripping tool it will have a crimper on there, but big pliers will work also. The advantage to the universal is that you can end up with a wire that is longer than the oem kind, which can make routing it eaiser sometimes they don't leave a whole lot of slack to work with, so the more wire you leave on the connector when you cut it off, the longer your new o2 sensor will be, very handy on a rx300 I might add. It really only takes a few minutes to make the connection.

You will need 2 sensors. it is amazing now much more it costs when they put the pin and connector on it for you.
Old 08-07-13, 01:41 PM
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I have the 1 wire sensor...And i think I will go with the universal one you listed as I have no problem wiring it up
Old 08-19-13, 11:21 AM
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Received the MAF today from another member...Hooked it up and she fired right up with a perfect idle after warmup...Took her out for a spin to check everything and she runs great...Thanks for the help Ali....it was the MAF that was the problem...I am still going to put in new o2 sensors as well since they are only $30 a piece for the universal ones you mentioned.

Can you use the same sensor for both banks on the exhaust manifold?
Old 08-19-13, 12:32 PM
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you need a sensor for each bank so 2 total, but it is the same type of sensor for both banks.
Old 08-19-13, 02:41 PM
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Thanks Ali....But I have some bad news......I took the car out for a long drive and when i got back the car started to stall out at red lights...I had to keep the revs up or it would stall out on me. It drove great for the awhile and then started to act up again...Im not sure what is causing these symptoms. What would you recommend trying next...
Old 08-19-13, 02:53 PM
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Just checked the car for codes and it is still throwing 24, the other two codes 28, 31 have disappeared.
Old 08-19-13, 04:41 PM
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Did a ECU reset and now I am getting codes 24 and 26.
Old 08-19-13, 04:54 PM
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The engine sounds like it is misfiring....FYI when I got the car the previous owner had let the car run completely out of gas....I am wondering if possibly doing the 12V ECU mod, replacing fuel filter, and fuel pump...Do you think that by running it bone dry it could be contributing to my problems?
Old 08-19-13, 06:38 PM
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Went for a short ride to see if it was still giving the same symptoms.....and there were no check engine lights but the idle was really high around 3k rpm. It would bogg down and come back up to where it was. Errr...this is so frustrating
Old 08-19-13, 09:47 PM
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Any Ideas or Thoughts are Appreciated...This is not my DD...just trying to get it running right so I can enjoy her
Old 08-20-13, 07:22 AM
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Started her up this morning and fired right up no problem...no check engine lights or anything......
Old 08-20-13, 08:22 AM
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next time it happens disconnect the 2 connectors for the o2 sensors, and then reset the ecu and try again.
you could have a bad o2 that is causing some havoc, not sure why you keep getting the iat code.
also double check the air filter is clean.


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