SC300 Hesitation, Idle Issues, Rich Exhaust Smell, etc....
10-02-13, 12:51 PM
#76
I decided not to take it to the shop quite yet as I would like to see what I can do on my own.
Please do not flame but do you think it would be worth it to spend $100 or so on the obx header...I figure it couldnt hurt to open up the exhaust a bit
10-02-13, 01:43 PM
#78
Driver School Candidate
I am agetting codes 24, 28 and 31, I am able to unplug the Karmen Vortex sensor completely and the engine running doesnt change at all...Do you think it would be good to replace the MAF sensor to start as well as the o2 sensors?
Is the idle supposed to react when I unplug the MAF? Is it supposed to shudder or something?
I would also like to find out an answer for this.....my idle is fine but when i get up to 3k in rpm range it is really sluggish and gets stuck in the 3k -4k range....it runs great but when I step on it and it gets up to that range it boggs down..would you suggest getting another MAF and replacing the o2 sensor to start...btw I have owned the car for 2 months and this problem just started to happen...sometimes it even stalls out on me when I fire it up every once in a while.
I have tried a different ecu on mine as well and it made it worse....checked all vacuum lines and they are good....I can only suspect it has to be the MAF or o2 sensors...
I have already replaced cap, rotor, plug wires and spark plugs..and tried a different ECU
What would you guys recommend to start with first?
Is the idle supposed to react when I unplug the MAF? Is it supposed to shudder or something?
I would also like to find out an answer for this.....my idle is fine but when i get up to 3k in rpm range it is really sluggish and gets stuck in the 3k -4k range....it runs great but when I step on it and it gets up to that range it boggs down..would you suggest getting another MAF and replacing the o2 sensor to start...btw I have owned the car for 2 months and this problem just started to happen...sometimes it even stalls out on me when I fire it up every once in a while.
I have tried a different ecu on mine as well and it made it worse....checked all vacuum lines and they are good....I can only suspect it has to be the MAF or o2 sensors...
I have already replaced cap, rotor, plug wires and spark plugs..and tried a different ECU
What would you guys recommend to start with first?
10-02-13, 02:57 PM
#80
There should be a plastic box called diagnostic on the driver side of engine bay, open it and you will see some grease coated terminals, engine idling the best you can after warmed up, put wire into terminal TE1 and E1 (I think, check the sticker under YOUR hood will tell you exactly which 2 terminals to jumper). Point timing gun at timing mark (lower timing belt cover, crank pulley area), it should be flashing around 10 BDTC, if not, you loosen the distributor and rotate it to get it to 10 BDTC, while the car is idling.
10-02-13, 03:03 PM
#81
There should be a plastic box called diagnostic on the driver side of engine bay, open it and you will see some grease coated terminals, engine idling the best you can after warmed up, put wire into terminal TE1 and E1 (I think, check the sticker under YOUR hood will tell you exactly which 2 terminals to jumper). Point timing gun at timing mark (lower timing belt cover, crank pulley area), it should be flashing around 10 BDTC, if not, you loosen the distributor and rotate it to get it to 10 BDTC, while the car is idling.
Appreciate all the help from everyone!!!
10-02-13, 07:44 PM
#82
Attempted to remove the exhaust....bolts are to corroded and rusted away to get em out...Only way would be cut them off.
Im not sure what else to try.....The problem just seems to get reappearing no matter what I try to do... I have run out of ideas here.
I may just end up pulling the motor and start saving for a 2jzgte swap. Would rather put the money towards a swap then wasting it on parts to try to fix the 2jzge
Im not sure what else to try.....The problem just seems to get reappearing no matter what I try to do... I have run out of ideas here.
I may just end up pulling the motor and start saving for a 2jzgte swap. Would rather put the money towards a swap then wasting it on parts to try to fix the 2jzge
10-02-13, 07:48 PM
#83
Attempted to remove the exhaust....bolts are to corroded and rusted away to get em out...Only way would be cut them off.
Im not sure what else to try.....The problem just seems to get reappearing no matter what I try to do... I have run out of ideas here.
I may just end up pulling the motor and start saving for a 2jzgte swap. Would rather put the money towards a swap then wasting it on parts to try to fix the 2jzge
Im not sure what else to try.....The problem just seems to get reappearing no matter what I try to do... I have run out of ideas here.
I may just end up pulling the motor and start saving for a 2jzgte swap. Would rather put the money towards a swap then wasting it on parts to try to fix the 2jzge
As a last resort, try getting out the propane torch and makin' those bolts red chunks of metal. Is there are threads exposed, get a candlestick and touch it to the hot bolt or nut then the wax will lubricate the threads, as it is very slippery and melted.
10-03-13, 09:44 AM
#84
Anybody that lives close by would that like to help me with yanking out the 2jzge motor, looking for someone who has done it before and knows exactly needs to be unbolted, wiring, etc...:thumbup
If you have an engine hoist that would be great as well
Let me know...
If you have an engine hoist that would be great as well
Let me know...
10-03-13, 06:31 PM
#85
Guess your gonna cut your loss.
10-03-13, 06:46 PM
#86
What are you gonna do with the engine? I guess you will most likely never know what went wrong.
Also, to pull the engine, you will need to remove the exhaust, anyways, so why dont you just cut those pipes down and take a look in the cats? Wouldn't hurt, especially if your'e gonna upgrade your exhaust.
10-03-13, 09:52 PM
#87
Like Brianmoss said,cut your losses. What are you gonna do with the engine?
I guess you will most likely never know what went wrong.
Also, to pull the engine, you will need to remove the exhaust, anyways, so why dont you just cut those pipes down and take a look in the cats? Wouldn't hurt, especially if your'e gonna upgrade your exhaust.
What are you gonna do with the engine? I guess you will most likely never know what went wrong.
Also, to pull the engine, you will need to remove the exhaust, anyways, so why dont you just cut those pipes down and take a look in the cats? Wouldn't hurt, especially if your'e gonna upgrade your exhaust.
10-14-13, 02:02 PM
#89
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I was having a similar problem with my 92 sc300. It has 177K miles and I was noticing a loss of power whenever I went to step on it.
Replaced the wires, plugs, etc. Last week I busted out all the honeycomb from the rear cat because it seemed to be clogged. When I shined a flashlight through one end and looked through the camera from the other, I couldn't see any light coming through.
Put the empty cat back on and my car seems much more responsive. Not 100% but definitely better. Although louder without the honeycomb. I can definitely say its more cooperative when I want it to GO.
Need to check the other cat & order replacements since I live in cali and expect smog soon. :-)
Good luck!
Replaced the wires, plugs, etc. Last week I busted out all the honeycomb from the rear cat because it seemed to be clogged. When I shined a flashlight through one end and looked through the camera from the other, I couldn't see any light coming through.
Put the empty cat back on and my car seems much more responsive. Not 100% but definitely better. Although louder without the honeycomb. I can definitely say its more cooperative when I want it to GO.
Need to check the other cat & order replacements since I live in cali and expect smog soon. :-)
Good luck!
10-15-13, 01:04 PM
#90
I have decided to pull the motor out anyways as im sure the rear main seal is shot as the back of the motor has a lot of oil on it as well as the transmission bellhousing. I will be cutting the exhaust off here sometime this week and will update the thread if I find out the cats were clogged.