SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

I have ordered a whole lot of little parts including every gasket that needs to come off, new plugs and wires, PCV valve..

So there is no need to access anything from under the car, right?

I looked at all the posts relating to this subject already, I located the infamous EGR pipe. I feel I might not be able to get those lower bolts, or that I will drop the bolts trying to thread it back on. But everyone here eventually got those bolts right? They are probably on pretty tight from the high temp that they are exposed to.

other random questions:
Do you disconnect the intake snorkel at the MAF, the resonator etc all come out?
Does alot of coolant drain out of the TB when you take out the hose?
I read that one of the tutorials says remove the battery, stood on the battery or tray something like that, is it necessary?

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

First problem I seem to have is someone have broken off the connector's push tab to the sensor..
does anyone know how the tab works and how do you unplug it?

I believe the one further in the picture is the Throttle position sensor, does anyone know what this sensor is or is it the idle stepper valve?
since it does not seem to have adjustable ears on the flange maybe I just remove the 2 screws holding it instead?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I disconnect the egr pipe at the intake manifold runners 2 bolts. they are on as tight as any other bolt attached to the motor. just don't overtorque them on the way back in is more important.

you can disconnect the intake wherever gives you the most space, maybe even just pull it off the throttle body and move it out of the way or you can remove parts of it. just make sure you keep whatever clamps you take off and put it back together later, there is no 1 way to do it I generally take off as little as possible for the job.

your picture shows the idle air control valve (stepper) on the left and the tps on the right. most poeples iacv connector is broken, when its broken like that the connector more or less just slides off, try using a small flat head to get it to start moving, its probably just stuck on from grime over the years. same with the tps push on the tab and remove or if the tab is broken it will just slide off.

If you are getting stuck on the connectors you may want to reconsider this job, but if you have time and patience it can be done its not the most tough job but things are tight around the throttle body stock.
the coolant hoses will pour some coolant, not all your coolant, mainly whats sitting in those hoses, just stick a rag under it when you remove. the passenger side is easier, and the drivers side coolant fitting is difficult to get on and off, you will need some needle nose pliers at the least or even better a proper tool for removing those little hose clamps. getting it back on is even trickier but you get good at it. I bypass it the first time I do one on a 2jzge because it just makes it a pain everytime.

remove all the brackets under the throttle body, I don't put them back on but you can if you are stock. then you can yank the whole Y piece out with the throttle body together, but the first time doing it I would just remove the throttle body and then the Y pipe if needed so you get a feel for it, removing just the throttle body you wont be able to remove to the drivers valve cover (if you are trying to replace the VC gaskets) but you can get to the spark plugs and change the pcv just taking the throttle body off. IF you don't have to take off the Y that makes it much easier and then you don't have to touch the egr at all, but if you have to do the drivers valve cover gasket you will need to take it off.

I have never removed the battery to do anything on the engine before. just disconnect the terminal so you don't short out something but I don't even really do that just don't stick the key in the car until you are done.

good luck if you get stuck just post it up. exactly what all are you trying to replace?

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I was just doing a bit of recon not having touched a bolt or connector yet.
I just don't want to get stuck without a car.
Yet I feel this can be DIY with my tools and that I should definitely learn it as it seems to be the pre-requisite skills to do a variety of things on this car.

I took a picture of the back of the valve cover, I know there are other possible leaks but the valve cover is definitely letting some oil out. It's gotten worse since I've changed out the mom n pop shop oil (probably 10W30) with 5W30 since the cold rating is thinner.

Here are the parts I ordered bascially the gasket, down to the little peices for the spark plug wire cover. Wires and plugs, the wires are sumitomo and seems like they are still the OE wires 20 years old. I thought I may change it out while I am in there along with PCV valve. The car idles extremely well right now though.

I also want to change the dizzy o-ring and wasn't sure if it's possible to install the dizzy with a tooth off, but from what I understand the newer toyota was keyed in smarter way. I would probably will start another thread about that.

I found the prices very reasonable with the CL discount although I didn't list the price exactly, for example the wire set is only $69. It's all OE and save me from having to order from Autozone or amazon.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yes learning to take off the intake on this engine is vital to doing alot of things yourself.
plug wires is not a bad idea in general, although I have never had an issue with the stock ones even really really old ones, unless they are visibly damaged on pinched or something. Not a bad idea since you have them go ahead and do it.
PCV is cake you don't even have to remove anything except for the hose on it, and it pops out. if the oring is super dry try dipping a little oil on it to help get the valve out.

you should do the plugs while you are in there, if you don't want to do them again for a long time I always hands down recommend the iridium ngk's for our cars. something like a bkr5eix for a stock SC I think the stock plug is a 5 heat range. its just the iridium version of the ngk plugs that will show up for our cars at an auto store. the iridiums have an "ix" at the end. dont do platinum it is old technology even though the sc came with them they are not as good.

dizzy o-ring, great idea to change that, it will leak horribly sooner or later, and usually not far in time away from when the valve cover gaskets go. you will need a timing light to set your timing when you pull the distributor out. yes there is a way to line it up, and yes its easy to be a tooth off even when you line it up it just all depends on how the grooves on the cam happen to be lined up is how much it will spin the dizzy upon stabbing it in. and even if you get the right tooth there is a wide range of adjustment. It would be ridiculous to expect that you will get it perfect without a timing light, although many think they can do it, its better to have the right timing than to guess away and let the ecu pull timing if you are advanced = bad, or waste gas and efficiency if the timing is too reterted, and usualy if you are more than +/- 2 degrees they will fail you at your emissions/safety check at the places that check the timing like they are supossed to.
in short, don't pull the distributor unless you have a timing light or are willing to risk being off when putting it back in, even those with experience miss the mark without knowing it.
you don't need a fancy one you just need an on/off most basic one, for example the one I got online is the Equus 3551 and its cheap and works great on the 2jz, I have used it dozens of times now and it is also fun to use a timing light for the first time. borrowing one from a friend is another option most gear heads have a few lying around.

do not start another thread asking if you can just line up the notches and insert the distributor and have the right timing, cause the answer is no, you need a timing light. Sure you can get in the ballpark, but I rather have a leaking distributor than be in the ball park timing is the one thing that can destroy your motor, but the choice is yours!!!

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

I finally finished this job, I spent over 20 hours on it. The problem, some of the bolts had not been taken off since factory like the EGR bolts. Same with hoses, they were on tight. The number of bolts were not much, but it's hard to reach.

I replaced that rat's nest of vacuum hoses with silicone, PVC valve including the grommet. That spark plug metal cover had 6 separate gaskets.. Cleaned throttle body, cleaned Y pipe of all the carbon and oil gunk. The distributor cap, oh my god it was the factory one on there for 20 years. It didn't budge even with hammer taps.

The spark plugs was dealer replaced last, they were barely on hand tight.. I cleaned the wells and the spark plug hole of dirt and oil, since a gritty feel when installing spark plug makes me cringe..

The PVC gromment has hardened and to prevent it from falling inside the valve cover baffle, I had to use a small saw blade to make relief cuts, that took and hour.

Overall it's pretty tough but I replaced alot of stuff and by doing it myself I took care of all the issues that would probably be overlooked by a shop. Cleaned everything that came off.


Some notes for others who wants to do this job.

EGR big nut is tight if never removed before. Used a dead blow hammer on the crescent wrench, to loosen is to turn towards driver side.

The Y pipe has vac hoses, 3 from the top and one hidden on the bottom. And there is the EGR temp probe connector that is a big PITA to get enough finger power to remove if had not been removed for 20 years.

needed all sortments of extensions but the EGR bolts were done with a flex head ratchet and just the right amount of extensions.

Installing Y pipe, leave the Y pipe loose and install the EGR pipe first. I tightened the Y pipe and the EGR bolts won't line up. Use some tape to hold the EGR pipe gasket without dropping it (which is another different job to find it)

if your paint is nice.. use a thick pad to cover the fenders. Given how much I leaned and abraded on the fenders, I should have washed the fenders to remove dirt too.

You definitely need an assortment of pilers and curved pliers etc to get some of the clamps and hoses off.

The factory Y pipe gasket is great.. I ordered a new one from Lexus, but now they are a composite material, that looks like it will stick and be scraped off in the future. Definitely don't bend it and reuse this one.

Hopefully you have a good chiropactor..