blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

You need to remove the Fuel damper under the intake in front of the starter and make the fuel feed that goes into that go to the fuel rail and you need a FPR to see you fuel pressure at boost the stock reg will not add at 1:1 = 1 psi of boost 1 psi fuel pressure increase also recommend doing the fuel pump mod so it runs at 12+volts all the time instead of ramping.
Your tuning the CAR BLIND CAUSE YOU DON'T KNOW WHERE YOUR FUEL PRESSURE IS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

strtslp

The only thing I edited was I forgot to list the cams. I was only making around 320whp before detonation, and I think I have seen stock compression motors in the 340whp range. I would have to pull the plugs out to get the PN, but they are NGK copper plugs in the 7 heat range. I think the PN in mostly specifying thread size and socket size. I do appreciate the feedback though, and I apologize if I am coming off the wrong way through text.

Aeromotive 340lph

strtslp

Thank you for the advise. I plan on doing this as soon as possible. Will I need additional fuel lines to bypass the damper, or can I get away with what is already there? Is the fuel pump mod where I bypass that controller thing in the rear interior panel or are you referring to something else?

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

You will need a additional fuel line to get to the rail and yes the by pass is located in the driver side rear panel above the rear seat bottom, and get a FPR that does 1:1 ratio most common is the Aeromotive below is the basics.


The Aeromotive A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulator was developed for high-horsepower fuel injected applications. Compatible with Aeromotive's A1000 Fuel Pump, this regulator is cousin to the widely-used A1000 Injected Bypass Regulator, delivering performance, long life & reliability.

Base pressure adjustable from 30-70 psi
CNC-machined from 6061 T6 billet aluminum
(2) ORB-06 inlet ports and (1) ORB-06 return ports and 1/8" NPT gauge port
Fuel pressure rises on 1:1 ratio when referencing boost
Alcohol compatible

Fuel damper pic below
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...iGtI4RE3LooAmA

Another pic.

http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/im...ze/MAG517F.jpg

Hope this helps!!!!

.

strtslp

Thank you for all the input, you have been very helpful and informative. I will update this post in a week or so with hopefully positive results.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

So if the diphragm-actuated 2jz FPR doesn't do 1/1, whats the vacuum line for?

AFPR, WBo2, and Boost control should be the most basic way of making adjustments to a turbo system, so get those stat.

With 91 octane of various quality around my locale, 86mm piston engines with boost can only muster around 10-14 degrees timing at WOT before preignition.

Check my datalogger thread in my sig to find out how much timing you are really making.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

What ecu is Map cal v3? Map ecu3 maybe?

Even on 91 octane 14lbs you shouldn't have any issues if it's all setup properly.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Blk&blu, you made some interesting points and its rare that I disagree with you but the stock fuel pressure regulator is a 1:1 unit as the top diaphragm is vac/boost referenced factory. I have not removed the dampner either and at his power levels it is not needed, althouth its a good idea to remove the dampener going for more than 500, but this shouldn't be the problem I run more boost than that with no issues whatsoever, on a completely factory fuel system except for injectors.

also for the 12v fuel mod, I used to have that but then I put it back to stock and noticed no difference whatsoever on my wideband which is on all the time. the pump is always ramped up by the time I make good boost. I don't think this is the issue, as I believe his issue is the stock ecu and the 550cc inejctors he has thrown on there with the map ecu 3.

Yeah, he shouldn't be having any issues at all engine wise or fuel capacity wise, I would have to say this is probably an issue in the map ecu 3 that needs to be sorted out. they can be touchy, and especially with the amount of fuel (maf signal) he probably has to pull (decrease) to make those 550cc injectors work right at full boost, it is probably jumping up the timing quite a bit as the ecu registered less load, and then the ecu is probably trying to suddenly pull timing in boost when it knocks, which will happen over and over.

OP you need better engine management. start with a standalone or use the GTE ecu. the GE ecu is not a reliable ecu to use for boost, unless you slap the most complicated piggyback on it, and then tune and tune it, and at that point you realize you should have switched ecu's at the start, cause the piggyback setup on the ge ecu will still be far from perfect after all that, whereas with the other routes your car will drive/boost much better.

strtslp

Yes MAPECU V3

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Forget the MAP ECU, sell it, get a JDM 2jzgte ECU, then read this thread a thousand times in a row:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...t-ecu-mod.html

strtslp

If I go GTE ecu wouldn't I need some sort of piggy back to control 550's? Do you think that the MAPECU would be able to work with the TT ecu without as many issues?

strtslp

great link, thank you.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the JDM 2jzgte ecu's (the ones most use) control 440's perfect, and they even control 550's fine as long as you have the o2 sensor hooked up but may run a little rich. With the JDM gte ecu, you do not need the map ecu 3 at all, in fact it is redundant because the JDM ecu already uses a map sensor, and you really just need a simple afc device like a safc for 550's or 660's.

That being said and to answer your second question, you can run most any piggyback just fine on the GTE ecu. The problem in your setup is the GE ecu, not the piggyback, and if you do go with the JDM map sensor gte ecu then you probably want to sell your map ecu 3 and get a safc 1 or 2 or something similar that works with the jdm ecu.

strtslp

I was thinking because a TT map and IAT are required with the JDM TT ECU I could use the MAPECU for the map and iat that are built in, or does the jdm ECU require its own map sensor and iat?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

You have a couple options either

Get a better tuner to tune that map ecu.

Sell it and get a an aristo ecu with safc or whatever piggyback your tuner feels comfortable with.

Buy an aem v1 or v2.

Or whatever standalone your tuner can tune..

That's what I would do if I were you.

GL