JesLet

iTrader: (19)

I am currently rebuilding my GTE engine and bought a set of ACL rod and main bearing plus thrust washers. They are just standard size, I don't know if they are the same size as OEM.

Anyone have experiences with these bearings, a review perhaps?

Here's the block on stand, going out tomorrow for hot tank and the head for a valve job

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

I personally use ACL race bearings and would recommend highly. The stock crank bearings are not all the same size. they use the journal# and the crank has coordinated # and thats how you derive the proper oem bearing.
The machine shop can remedy this issue since you are sending the block I'm guessing you will be at least honing, boring. I would highly recommend you tell the MS what piston you will be using for the clearances and also make sure they use a torque plate when boring the block.

GL!!!!!

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

Also I see on the head you removed all the Buckets I hope you # them as they all typically are different don't just go back in anywhere.

JesLet

iTrader: (19)

I did the deglazing of the bores and yes the shims, springs, keepers are numbered in a inexpensive egg tray.

Do I have to do anything with the crank since I am going ACL?

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

You should have the crank checked for true/straight,and advise the machine shop your using ACL bearings.
You can also have the MS polish the crank and rod journals.

I also would recommend the block be checked for flat since your there and deck as needed.
I recommend you use a Viton valve seals over the stock Toyota. Cheap insurance $38-45 for all the valve seals and believe it or not Ferrea has 2 different stock # for the intake and exhaust valve seals.

JesLet

iTrader: (19)

They are just doin hot tank. I will be doin all the reassembly per TSRM

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

Pls don't be penny wise and dollar foolish check the block and deck if necessary or all this is in vain.
If you do not check the above the head to deck loint will be compromised. If you don't Confirm the crank for true and deal with the ACL clearances you will spin a bearing 100 percent guaranteed.

These are for your benefit.

JesLet

iTrader: (19)

I have Supertech valve seals ready to go...

Can you please tell me exactly what needs to be done on my crankshaft since I am using ACL

Decking of the block and head, got those atbthe same shop

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

The factory assembled these engines with all different bearing thickness to accommodate the crank variances ( I have never seen a 1 or 2 J with all the same bearings from factory.
The machine shop assembles the rotating assembly mic it to confirm proper clearance adjusts as necessary.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

^^^^listen to the advice aboe .. you cant just throw a set of aftermarket bearings in and run .. crank has to be machined , and micro polished the journals to accept the proper clearances of the bearings . machine will plasti gauge the clearances .. a aftermarket build should be done according to intended hp you intend to run.. i higher hp motor will be looser then stock

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

^^^^^ I love being loose.LOL

JesLet

iTrader: (19)

Okay to make it simpler, If i have to buy OE bearings according to their sizes marked on the crankshaft +rods and block+ mains and oil clearances passed the standard by using plastigauge, I dont need the crankshaft to be machined unless the journals are pitted/scratched or damaged.

Crank+rods


Block+mains

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

Now you get it!

Aftermarket bearing are great but they take work to use properly.

JesLet

iTrader: (19)

Dammit, i think I will be using OE. I just want the rebuild to be OE spec.

Now, what you think about NPR rings?

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

you $lut