Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Hi,
I broke my fuel line replacing my fuel filter. I have decided to replace the line with -6 AN Steel/nylon braided line and replace the filter on that line with an Aeromotive aftermarket filter.
I am replacing the fuel line from the firewall to the gas tank. Between the parts list of another member and Summit tech support I purchased these parts below. It looks like I am missing something. It seems to me that the only parts that can tightly/securely connect to the actual hose ends are the two pieces that are red and blue. This would mean I need 4 such pieces right?
One to connect to the hose end that goes to the firewall (no idea how that connects)
one on the other end of that section of hose that goes into the thread size converter that plugs into the filter.
One on the hose at the other side of the filter (and another size converter) and the 90 degree red and blue fitting that I assume goes into the gas tank. That would mean i need two more locking hose ends of some sort.
That also means i likely have several parts that i don't need.


I HAVE THESE PARTS SO FAR:

Part Number Part Description QTY Tracking Number

RUS-661890 NUT BULKHEAD #6 1

RUS-660350 UNION FLARE 6 1

RUS-660363 8 AN FLARE UNION 1

RUS-610020 HOSE END #6 STRAIGHT 1

RUS-610160 SWIVEL FULL FLOW 90DEG #6 1

EAR-AT989486ERL REDUCER 2

EAR-AT985081ERL ADAPTER FITTING 2

AEI-12301 FUEL FILTER 10AN 10-MICRON 1

And 20 feet of -6 AN steel/nylon braided hose. 1


What else do I need? What can i send back?

What connection is at the firewall?


I thank anyone in advance that even reads this to try to help. I know it may take time to figure out.

I have looked all over the net and i cannot find any DIY help for this. i'm just not good enough to "wing it".

If you know where helpful DIY is, please post.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

1JZPWRD was nice enough to get me started. I used his replies to get a bit of a clue and a parts list. Here are the posts that got me started so you understand what info i am going on.

Here are his earlier messages:

It requires a size -4 or -6AN line. Closer to stock is -4AN. The rear seat will have to come out. Make sure the gas tank is below 1/2 way in gas. Remove the cover to the gas tank. Buy the appropriate fittings and an inline fuel filter by AERO. You wont use the stock filter anymore. If you use the -6 it is an upgrade. You can run this new line to the back of the fuel rail, near the firewall. They make all kinds of adapters, and couplings for just about any size. I would say 17 feet will be plenty of line. You can cut the line down if needed, and if too long. There is plenty of YouTube videos out there that has great detailed right ups on how to cut and mate the couplings. I can pull my invoice and give you an idea on what to get started.
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Oh yeah, while you are at it, I would bypass the stock fuel ECU and run a straight power source from battery to the new 30 amp relay.
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No problem man. When I ordered my filter from Summit, it DID NOT come with the o rings for the filter. These need o rings to seal the fuel, so order two of them, for fuel ONLY. Also dont forget the crushed copper washers at the rail.
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Here is the invoice portion from my bill at Zen Motors. Keep in mind also this is for my 1JZ, but the length should be the same.

(1) 610020 hose End, -... Hose End, - 6 Straight
(1) 610160 Hose End -... 610160 Hose End -6 90 degree
632080 Proflex SS ... 632080 Proflex SS Hose
15' -6 Stainless hose
1 660350 Union Flar... 660350 Union Flare -6
1 660363 Adaptor fitting. Flare union. #8
1 661890 -6 bulkhea... 661890 -6 bulkhead nut

This should get you real close.

1JZPWRD

Perhaps that will help you get what I am going for.

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (5)

Just as a heads up in case you didn't know already, there is no real "firewall" connection. It's all hardline under the car until it goes up to the rail/dampener banjo. What you're missing appears to be the fuel line fitting. I'm assuming you are keeping the factory fuel return (which is absolutely fine with a -6 feed) Do you have a factory fuel rail/dampener setup? If so, call driftmotion and they can sell you the fitting that would bypass the dampener and (IIRC) keep your factory rail.

I'm also not clear how you plan to connect to the factory hardline at the gas tank. I went with a drop in high flow pump myself (which required drilling through the rear tank hat and putting a bulkhead fitting in.) Are you just going to do a barbed fitting to one of the factory rubber lines?

edit:

Ah ok looks like you are well under way already with the fuel rail!

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Intimazy,
Please assume I know nothing about this because....... well...... I Don't.
I have no idea how I plan to do any of this. I had no idea what was on either end at all.
Do you mean i must pass the AN hose through the firewall and connect to the fuel rail under the hood? Where in this pic do I connect it?
>If so, call driftmotion and they can sell you the fitting that would bypass the dampener and (IIRC) keep your factory rail.<

i will call Drift tomorrow.

Thank you!!
SG

dhhd

No need to remove the rear seat whatsoever. Save yourself the time an leave it in. The OEM banjo lines at the tank should be tossed and replaced with -6AN line to a 120° -6AN hose end and then use a 12x1.25 to -6AN adapter with a crush washer to the tank. Seal the little hole left open from the banjo bolt anti rotation pin. Its drilled all the way through the tank and will leak. A full bead of j.b. weld will work as that's what I did. The parts you have look fine. I listed a full run down of what I used in my thread so you should be able to compare to that. Otherwise pm me a good number to reach you at and I can walk you through it all and text u pics (I don't know how to upload them on here) I took before and after shots.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

I really appreciate the offer to assist directly but being that this info seems to be NOWHERE on the web, what you have figured out will come in handy for others.
Ill tell you how to post pictures.

1) Under the reply window down below, click the "go advanced" button.

2) Type your header and message then scroll down 2 inches (leftish) and click "manage attachments" button just below.

3) A small window will pop up likely on the left.

4) Each of those "choose file" buttons will hold one picture. Click the button and you can navigate to your photos on your drive one at a time per slot.

5) Click 'upload" and wait a minute..

6) Continue to refine your message if you like then click "preview post" button.

7) If it looks good, click "submit post"

Thanks for your help!!

Nauta

iTrader: (1)

Has any progress been made? i am about to start doing this myself. did you have to go get any more parts? did you end up using -4 or -6 line?

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Just saw this, sorry)

I have not done it yet. I have parts but have to verify that they all will work together. I will in the next 2 weeks likely. I will surely report back.

Nauta

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff man keep us posted hope it all works

tjmhillz

iTrader: (6)

any updates on this? my filter is rusted and leaking. I know once i tackle this i will have to replace the entire line because everything is rusted.