question concerning the 1uz power
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
question concerning the 1uz power
Alright guys, i wanna know what o can do to pull add much power out of my 1uz but keeping it na, no boost no nothing just natural power, how would i do this, i know about the bfi, and I'm going to do that, but what else can i do to get more horsepower.
Thanks for any suggestions
Thanks for any suggestions
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Alright, thanks for the reply, i guess the only real answer is an engine swap, and i can't really do that right now with the amount of money i have right now and college, thanks again
#4
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
1UZ is a great engine. I'm really tired of all the people throwing away such a great engine!
For the cost of a swap it would be much cheaper to get high horsepower out of a 1UZ.
You can get an ECU like a Unichip and advance timing and lean your A/F to gain about 20-30hp at the wheels. The car is tuned very conservatively from stock. Headers gain about 20hp at the wheels. ECU + Headers on 1UZ is known to gain 40hp at wheels.
The best bang for your buck is a centrifugal supercharger or nitrous.
Buy a used vortech or procharger for $800. Buy a lextreme supercharger bracket $300. For about $1500-$2000 you're going to have a nice supercharger setup.
A user KC95 on these forums got a 12 second flat 1/4 mile time with a simple setup such as this one. On a stock unopened block! There are people running 400hp-500hp on stock unopened 1UZ first gen motors.
Other than that the 1uz block can take a huge nitrous shot.
http://www.lextreme.com/supercharger-bracket.html
Edit: Oh I just re-read that you only want natural power. BFI, headers, exhaust, ECU tune, ported heads, cams, manual or shift kitted high stall auto. More extreme you can do 4.7L 2uz block swap with 1uz head. Why don't you like boost? Cheapest way to high horsepower is a vortech supercharger with fishbracket. You can even run it through stock maf and stock ecu. Centrifugals are good daily drivers too.
For the cost of a swap it would be much cheaper to get high horsepower out of a 1UZ.
You can get an ECU like a Unichip and advance timing and lean your A/F to gain about 20-30hp at the wheels. The car is tuned very conservatively from stock. Headers gain about 20hp at the wheels. ECU + Headers on 1UZ is known to gain 40hp at wheels.
The best bang for your buck is a centrifugal supercharger or nitrous.
Buy a used vortech or procharger for $800. Buy a lextreme supercharger bracket $300. For about $1500-$2000 you're going to have a nice supercharger setup.
A user KC95 on these forums got a 12 second flat 1/4 mile time with a simple setup such as this one. On a stock unopened block! There are people running 400hp-500hp on stock unopened 1UZ first gen motors.
Other than that the 1uz block can take a huge nitrous shot.
http://www.lextreme.com/supercharger-bracket.html
Edit: Oh I just re-read that you only want natural power. BFI, headers, exhaust, ECU tune, ported heads, cams, manual or shift kitted high stall auto. More extreme you can do 4.7L 2uz block swap with 1uz head. Why don't you like boost? Cheapest way to high horsepower is a vortech supercharger with fishbracket. You can even run it through stock maf and stock ecu. Centrifugals are good daily drivers too.
Last edited by Clean400; 04-19-13 at 10:21 AM.
#6
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (31)
I love the 1uz and strongly considered it however parts and aftermarket support are the reason I went with a swap which will net double the hp had I thrown the same money at the 1uzfe so I have no ill feelings for the 1uz and it's prolly one of the most reliable engines ever made if not the most reliable but the power gains per dollar will very quickly trump that of a swap.
I have an intake,walbro 255,exhaust,shift kit,afpr big trans coolers and my car still will not pass 200whp on the dyno although it feels strong it is infact making less whp than most k series hondas.
I have an intake,walbro 255,exhaust,shift kit,afpr big trans coolers and my car still will not pass 200whp on the dyno although it feels strong it is infact making less whp than most k series hondas.
#7
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
I love the 1uz and strongly considered it however parts and aftermarket support are the reason I went with a swap which will net double the hp had I thrown the same money at the 1uzfe so I have no ill feelings for the 1uz and it's prolly one of the most reliable engines ever made if not the most reliable but the power gains per dollar will very quickly trump that of a swap.
I have an intake,walbro 255,exhaust,shift kit,afpr big trans coolers and my car still will not pass 200whp on the dyno although it feels strong it is infact making less whp than most k series hondas.
I have an intake,walbro 255,exhaust,shift kit,afpr big trans coolers and my car still will not pass 200whp on the dyno although it feels strong it is infact making less whp than most k series hondas.
High horsepower N/a is very costly with the 1uz . Its a shame the tuner scene never "discovered" it. I feel the 1uz tuning scene is very under ground.. as if you have to scour the web for info and parts. 1j and 2j have a plethora of parts available.
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
thanks guys i wasnt really expecting this much input, now i know you guys are saying to put all of these things on my car, but really its gonna be a slow process for me to do all this, and money is tight, and plus i live in the great state of CA which f%^&# over lots of cars, i kinda need to still keep it smog legal thats pretty much it, thanks for the input though, ill definitely look into an ecu, headers, and all of that others stuff.
Clean400: i definitely want boost i just dont know if it will pass the smog tests here :'(, but yeah thanks for the input.
Thanks again guys, and again tight on money, going to college, so this is gonna be a slow thing for me, i want natural horsepower first then work my way up, so its gonna be super slow for me, THANKS!!!
Clean400: i definitely want boost i just dont know if it will pass the smog tests here :'(, but yeah thanks for the input.
Thanks again guys, and again tight on money, going to college, so this is gonna be a slow thing for me, i want natural horsepower first then work my way up, so its gonna be super slow for me, THANKS!!!
#9
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This is the third thread I seen where someone recommends new cams. I have searched and searched and have not found a venor who makes/sells higher lift or longer duration cams. I was just wondering what source is anyone using for a N/A cam setup?
supercharging might be the cheapest route though
supercharging might be the cheapest route though
#11
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This is the third thread I seen where someone recommends new cams. I have searched and searched and have not found a venor who makes/sells higher lift or longer duration cams. I was just wondering what source is anyone using for a N/A cam setup?
supercharging might be the cheapest route though
supercharging might be the cheapest route though
#13
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
To be honest new cams won't really help with the weight of the SC. Cams really make a difference in a 1uz in a light car. The problem is with changing the cams is that your going to lose low end torque... which is what makes the 1UZ in an SC fun. In a light car you can put in cams without feeling the loss of the low end torque.
I would only put cams in a boosted 1UZ. Or in a 1UZ swapped in a lighter car. With a stock SC the car will likely feel slower with newer cams.
What cams and ITBs can do to a 1uz in a light weight chassis.
I would only put cams in a boosted 1UZ. Or in a 1UZ swapped in a lighter car. With a stock SC the car will likely feel slower with newer cams.
What cams and ITBs can do to a 1uz in a light weight chassis.
#14
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
one thing you can do to gain some top end power is make a new intake manifold; the factory one is known to choke power at around 5400 rpms. A new intake alone will see a rise in horsepower of approx. 20 whp. if you add headers, an exhaust, bfi, and a tune to that, you could see about 250 whp. add a manual to that, and not only will you wake up the motor, you'll put down more horsepower to the wheels. With a manual, whp would be closer to 280 horsepower.
ps. if you're considering cams, they won't add nearly what their intended hp is without a new intake manifold.
in the meantime, some inexpensive things you can do to raise the horsepower/performance would be: bfi (already mentioned), resonator delete/ custom ehxuast, cut the first speed sensor (this will make the transmission shift better for sportier driving), and of course maintenance to regain power lost over the years.
good luck with your car.
ps. if you're considering cams, they won't add nearly what their intended hp is without a new intake manifold.
in the meantime, some inexpensive things you can do to raise the horsepower/performance would be: bfi (already mentioned), resonator delete/ custom ehxuast, cut the first speed sensor (this will make the transmission shift better for sportier driving), and of course maintenance to regain power lost over the years.
good luck with your car.
#15
Intermediate
Sorry, but those numbers are just wrong.
Tested proven to add HP only BFI and Chip.
Exhaust gives lower than stock torque but higher frees the engine at high rpms. You decide.
Headers/extractors provide better sound :/
Sad but true.
Go manual and you'll be happier.
I think that you can set up a lean map to pass emissions on a turbo 1uz. Then switch to rich/safe mode
Tested proven to add HP only BFI and Chip.
Exhaust gives lower than stock torque but higher frees the engine at high rpms. You decide.
Headers/extractors provide better sound :/
Sad but true.
Go manual and you'll be happier.
I think that you can set up a lean map to pass emissions on a turbo 1uz. Then switch to rich/safe mode