dhhd

I'm looking to make steel braided lines for my sc400 and was looking to see if anyone knew which of the three was the supply, return, and the last one which I think goes to the evap canister? Just basically looking for someone to help with which line goes where. Thanks.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Any progress on this project? Completed or abandoned? I am doing the same thing and have found little or no info on the subject.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Have your stock lines failed? if not, this is pointless and if you can't figure out what is what, you shouldn't be doing it in the first place.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Yes they have. I broke the line changing the filter. The last thing I want to do is a pointless job on my car. Using that logic, I will never get better at fixing my car .
I made a thread with more specific questions HERE.
My overall plan is to research jobs one at a time, figure out a good plan that respects the depth of the job, asses my ability to pull it off, then Man Up and GO IN on it, or get someone to help me.
I'm pretty sure I can do this as long as I have the right parts.
I just pulled off my first tuneup ever about a month ago. I feel empowered!

Please help if you can.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

You're doing good SG, but guessing the filter is where they are on 300s. What you do is rent a double flare tool from an autoparts store, or buy one if you can find one cheap. use a small hack saw to cut the factory fittings off, then use a 1991ish fuel filter from a 300zx. it has barb fittings. flare the lines where you cut which will give them a lip to grab on, then use 5/16' fuel line, some clamps, and the nissan filter. Done. Otherwise you're looking at spending a lot of money, and lot of time for something that's way overkill/unneeded. My cost to do -6 from the tank to the engine and back was around $300, which is cheap for aeroquip. Fuel system parts are something you don't cheap out on when going custom. Someone without the discount would have spent almost double. SOmetimes simple is best.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Vrank,
Thanks man, I appreciate any help on this. I looked at the flare method on youtube and almost went that way (i actually have a video of it on the link to my other thread above) . I for some reason thought i was being lazy and decided on the job that seemed like an upgrade so I went for it.
At this point, I already have the parts collected so I just want to make sure I have everything i need then I will visit an old tractor trailer mechanic and do the job at his lot, in case I get into trouble.
There is no turning back now V
If you checked my link above, you will see that I already got an Aeromotive filter, -6 hose and a box of fittings. I think I am missing something (a fitting or two), but I am almost there.

Thanks again man!
SG

dhhd

I completed mine. Standing at the rear of the car, the line on the left side of the tank is the vent. It goes up to the evap can. On the right side bottom of the tank is the feed then further to the right is the return.
Used: -4an line for the vent, with a 12x1.25 to -4an adapter on the bottom of the tank. Use a -4an 90° hose end, then I ran this straight to the evap can ending with a -4an hose clamp.
I ran a -6an line (larger than OEM), for the feed, 12x1.25 to -6an adapter at the bottom of tank to a -6an 120° hose end. Then I ran the line to another -6an hose end, a -6an male to male union, then to a fragola -6an 40 micron furl filter. Out of the filter, another union and hose end, back to the routing of the -6an line, up to a 160° -6an hose end and to a -6an to 12x1.25 adapter directly to the fuel rail.
For the return, I came out of the tank with another 12x1.25 to -6an adapter and hose end then ran it to the hose that is near the left rear valve cover against the fire wall. I had to use a 2inch long section of 5/16" fuel hose off the OEM metal line to a barbed -4an fitting, adapted to -6an. The to a -6an hose end finally to the -6an hose.
Note*** you need to seal the little holes on the bottom of the tank left open from the OEM banjo bolts. These are anti rotation pin holes for the OEM banjo bolt hose ends and will leak like crazy. I used j.b. weld with good luck so far.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

DhhD,
I'm new to DIY so much of that went over my head but as i keep reading, this stuff is getting clearer. I am only replacing the line that the filter is on. The others will stay as is. From what i understand, that is fuel rail to gas tank with the Aeromotive filter in line instead of the stock filter.

If you have a minute please take a peek at my thread on that job HERE and tell me if the parts i have will get it done.

Thank You! I really appreciate the help.

dhhd

While you're cracking into the fuel system you should just do them all so you won't have to go back and do it all over again (well, only if the other lines look crappy like mine did) I have no problem walking you through the procedure if you need help. Pm me.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Luckily, the others are great. I broke just that one line changing the fuel filter. Instead of the flare method, i decided to replace that whole line. I thought like every other job I have looked up, there would be a DIY of some sort. Not a thing out there for this job that i can find. Once I make sure I have all the correct parts, i will PM you!
Thanks!

dhhd

Oh and I used Vibrant line, and all my fittings and the filter were from Fragola. All purchased through Verocious Motorsport

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

For your picture uploads:

1) Under the reply window down below, click the "go advanced" button.

2) Type your header and message then scroll down 2 inches (leftish) and click "manage attachments" button just below.

3) A small window will pop up likely on the left.

4) Each of those "choose file" buttons will hold one picture. Click the button and you can navigate to your photos on your drive one at a time per slot.

5) Click 'upload" and wait a minute..

6) Continue to refine your message if you like then click "preview post" button.

7) If it looks good, click "submit post"

Thanks for your help!!