NA-T installed, car is not idlling :(
03-11-13, 05:24 PM
#1
NA-T installed, car is not idlling :(
I just finished with the install. Double checked vacuum lines and clips to all sensors, everything appears to be hooked up but the car would not idle. When I start the car, it would idle high then surge low, I would have to give it gas to keep it running.
I have the MAF on the turbo side, no air cleaner on it yet. Any suggestions to what I can do to resolve this? NO CEL, BOV is disconnected for now. I tried tightening the throttle cable, it did not help
I have the MAF on the turbo side, no air cleaner on it yet. Any suggestions to what I can do to resolve this? NO CEL, BOV is disconnected for now. I tried tightening the throttle cable, it did not help
Last edited by 6SOARER; 03-11-13 at 05:37 PM.
03-11-13, 06:19 PM
#4
what did you do with your passenger valve cover breather hose, it needs to be routed in front of the turbo but behind the maf, or else you will be letting in unmetered air via the pcv = won't run right. Do not connect to intercooler piping obviously.
I also think with the stock maf an intake filter may even help it run a little better.
also did you get that S intercooler pipe from a mk3 kit?
I also think with the stock maf an intake filter may even help it run a little better.
also did you get that S intercooler pipe from a mk3 kit?
Last edited by Ali SC3; 03-11-13 at 06:23 PM.
03-11-13, 06:34 PM
#5
what did you do with your passenger valve cover breather hose, it needs to be routed in front of the turbo but behind the maf, or else you will be letting in unmetered air via the pcv = won't run right. Do not connect to intercooler piping obviously.
I also think with the stock maf an intake filter may even help it run a little better.
also did you get that S intercooler pipe from a mk3 kit?
I also think with the stock maf an intake filter may even help it run a little better.
also did you get that S intercooler pipe from a mk3 kit?
The S intercooler pipe came with the kit I bought from a memeber here. Is there something wrong with it?
I do not have everything connected, I lied . I didnt think something so simple could cause this. Im going to reconnect it tomorrow to see if this does the trick.
U mean route the breather hose in between the turbo and MAF, right?
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03-12-13, 03:43 PM
#8
Alright so today I hooked up the breather hose, checked all my clamps to my piping, turned my MAF right side up, installed a open cone filter and resetted the ECU but the car still stalls. It is also driving like crap. I havent installed a boost gauge yet. I do have a brand new clutch and flywheel, I know these require a 500 mile break in procedure before I can really get on it but I do not feel any boost.
My wastegate, the vacuum line on the side is routed to the turbo comp housing. Top port is plugged(wastegate). Can a bad wastegate cause low idle, stall conditions? I bought the whole kit used so I am unaware of all its condition.
A few things that needs to be addressed-
-My exhaust is OPEN, I accidently broke the V band clamp but all O2 sensors are hooked up.
-I need (2) 2.75" to 3" reducer couplings and clamps for the middle pipe from the MAF and turbo. I inspected to see if there were any gaps in between, looks to be all tight.
I will be getting these parts tomorrrow to be replaced but do guys have any more suggestions?
My wastegate, the vacuum line on the side is routed to the turbo comp housing. Top port is plugged(wastegate). Can a bad wastegate cause low idle, stall conditions? I bought the whole kit used so I am unaware of all its condition.
A few things that needs to be addressed-
-My exhaust is OPEN, I accidently broke the V band clamp but all O2 sensors are hooked up.
-I need (2) 2.75" to 3" reducer couplings and clamps for the middle pipe from the MAF and turbo. I inspected to see if there were any gaps in between, looks to be all tight.
I will be getting these parts tomorrrow to be replaced but do guys have any more suggestions?
03-12-13, 10:00 PM
#12
Can you say 100% all your vacuum lines are are on tight and not kinked in anyway possible. The 2jzge has the biggest pita manifold.It may seem tedious but literally start on one side of the engine bay and go through every vacuum line. The alternative to not checking everything twice is the current situation your in.
03-12-13, 10:07 PM
#13
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Have you rechecked your distributor and wires? Also here is a link to double check your TPS:
throttle body manual
throttle body manual
Last edited by 96DwpSC3; 03-12-13 at 10:28 PM.
03-13-13, 08:12 AM
#14
I dont think the top port on the wastegate should be plugged, but that wont mess with your idle.
you need to disconnect your o2 sensor connectors if your exhaust is open, they are probably reading crazy lean and injecting much more fuel than you need. disconnect connectors and reset ecu. don't connect them until the exhaust is 100% leak free.
also what kind of BOV do you have, if you have a tial style,they tend to stay cracked open at idle sometimes, and if thats the case with the stock maf, you need to shim it until the piston stays closed at idle. the slightest crack letting air in will mess up the stock ecu.
Make sure your 4runner cap has all the wires in the right spot, it can get tricky when switching the leads to reach all the cylinders. If you didn't change your rotor inside that cap, I would do that with a toyota one as well, the 4 runner cap is not as perfect of a fit as the stock one.
you need to disconnect your o2 sensor connectors if your exhaust is open, they are probably reading crazy lean and injecting much more fuel than you need. disconnect connectors and reset ecu. don't connect them until the exhaust is 100% leak free.
also what kind of BOV do you have, if you have a tial style,they tend to stay cracked open at idle sometimes, and if thats the case with the stock maf, you need to shim it until the piston stays closed at idle. the slightest crack letting air in will mess up the stock ecu.
Make sure your 4runner cap has all the wires in the right spot, it can get tricky when switching the leads to reach all the cylinders. If you didn't change your rotor inside that cap, I would do that with a toyota one as well, the 4 runner cap is not as perfect of a fit as the stock one.
03-13-13, 08:23 PM
#15
Can you say 100% all your vacuum lines are are on tight and not kinked in anyway possible. The 2jzge has the biggest pita manifold.It may seem tedious but literally start on one side of the engine bay and go through every vacuum line. The alternative to not checking everything twice is the current situation your in.
Only vacuum line I havent hooked up is the Charcoal canister, I have it plugged off tho. I need the canister removed so i can work around the wire harness through the firewall.
Have you rechecked your distributor and wires? Also here is a link to double check your TPS:
throttle body manual
throttle body manual
I dont think the top port on the wastegate should be plugged, but that wont mess with your idle.
you need to disconnect your o2 sensor connectors if your exhaust is open, they are probably reading crazy lean and injecting much more fuel than you need. disconnect connectors and reset ecu. don't connect them until the exhaust is 100% leak free.
also what kind of BOV do you have, if you have a tial style,they tend to stay cracked open at idle sometimes, and if thats the case with the stock maf, you need to shim it until the piston stays closed at idle. the slightest crack letting air in will mess up the stock ecu.
Make sure your 4runner cap has all the wires in the right spot, it can get tricky when switching the leads to reach all the cylinders. If you didn't change your rotor inside that cap, I would do that with a toyota one as well, the 4 runner cap is not as perfect of a fit as the stock one.
you need to disconnect your o2 sensor connectors if your exhaust is open, they are probably reading crazy lean and injecting much more fuel than you need. disconnect connectors and reset ecu. don't connect them until the exhaust is 100% leak free.
also what kind of BOV do you have, if you have a tial style,they tend to stay cracked open at idle sometimes, and if thats the case with the stock maf, you need to shim it until the piston stays closed at idle. the slightest crack letting air in will mess up the stock ecu.
Make sure your 4runner cap has all the wires in the right spot, it can get tricky when switching the leads to reach all the cylinders. If you didn't change your rotor inside that cap, I would do that with a toyota one as well, the 4 runner cap is not as perfect of a fit as the stock one.
BOV is a true HKS, wastegate is a Tial 38mm.
All the wires are routed right. I had to swap number 1 with #2 cable cause wire 1 was too short. I do have a new rotor but it isnt Toyota, hope it works the same.