Help with supercharging my SC400
08-17-13, 10:55 PM
#121
Driver
Thread Starter
Hi guys,
Here comes some feedback on your suggestions:
1. The change back to stock injectors was made merely for troubleshooting, it did not change anything.
2. I plugged back the O2 sensor, which erased the CEL instantly. However the car runs as poorly as before, perhaps a bit leaner. (i can tell by the smell)
3. I disconnected the MAF and gave it a clean with alcohol, I cleaned the connector as well, plugged it back and voila, the car idles smoothly and pulls without coughing. It lasted about 15 minutes, then it all went back to poor idle and hesitations.
What do you make of this? Bad MAF or something else? A new MAF cost 160 US$ plus shipping. 220$ shipped.
Ali, I think it is time for me to take your advice and move the MAF before the supercharger. I just can't picture a practical way of doing this. I wanted to have the air filter somewhere inside the wheel arch, where the windshield washer tank was.
Clean400: Does the F-IC8 come with a MAP sensor? Can it handle one?
P.S. I forgot to tell you that i ordered a 12:1 FMU just to see if this improves anything
I'm just thinking that my tuner didn't even bother to give me a call since I left the spare ECU and a piggyback solution would probably solve my problem. The AEM F-IC8 wasn't that expensive and it's been proven to work before. MMCTuner has one and it works for him.
/Mike
Here comes some feedback on your suggestions:
1. The change back to stock injectors was made merely for troubleshooting, it did not change anything.
2. I plugged back the O2 sensor, which erased the CEL instantly. However the car runs as poorly as before, perhaps a bit leaner. (i can tell by the smell)
3. I disconnected the MAF and gave it a clean with alcohol, I cleaned the connector as well, plugged it back and voila, the car idles smoothly and pulls without coughing. It lasted about 15 minutes, then it all went back to poor idle and hesitations.
What do you make of this? Bad MAF or something else? A new MAF cost 160 US$ plus shipping. 220$ shipped.
Ali, I think it is time for me to take your advice and move the MAF before the supercharger. I just can't picture a practical way of doing this. I wanted to have the air filter somewhere inside the wheel arch, where the windshield washer tank was.
Clean400: Does the F-IC8 come with a MAP sensor? Can it handle one?
P.S. I forgot to tell you that i ordered a 12:1 FMU just to see if this improves anything
I'm just thinking that my tuner didn't even bother to give me a call since I left the spare ECU and a piggyback solution would probably solve my problem. The AEM F-IC8 wasn't that expensive and it's been proven to work before. MMCTuner has one and it works for him.
/Mike
Last edited by mickesanda; 08-17-13 at 11:02 PM.
08-17-13, 11:17 PM
#122
Driver
Thread Starter
Aem
I sent a message to AEM support and this is the answer i received:
"Hi Michael,
The fuel and ignition controller you are seeking is an AEM FIC/8 unit part #30-1930. The unit is universal so there is no plug n play harness that we provide. There are 3rd party companies that make plug n play adapters however we do not recommend using one. To save yourself from a long troubleshooting install, we suggest to locate a patch harness so that you can wire into IT instead of your factory harness. Also an FMU will not be needed as our units will allow you to clamp the MAF signal and tune utilizing your TPS and our onboard MAP sensor.
~Pyng Thai
Tech Support"
"Hi Michael,
The fuel and ignition controller you are seeking is an AEM FIC/8 unit part #30-1930. The unit is universal so there is no plug n play harness that we provide. There are 3rd party companies that make plug n play adapters however we do not recommend using one. To save yourself from a long troubleshooting install, we suggest to locate a patch harness so that you can wire into IT instead of your factory harness. Also an FMU will not be needed as our units will allow you to clamp the MAF signal and tune utilizing your TPS and our onboard MAP sensor.
~Pyng Thai
Tech Support"
Last edited by mickesanda; 08-17-13 at 11:32 PM.
08-18-13, 12:52 PM
#123
Yeah it didn't make much sense that your tuner was sending in your ECU to get reprogrammed. To my knowledge there is no one that does that with the stock ECU anymore. Even then I don't see why it would need to be reprogrammed, when an FIC 8 could do everything you need with more control.
The FIC 8 has a built in map sensor.
If you need a wiring diagram for the FIC 8 I got one from MMCTuner.
The FIC 8 has a built in map sensor.
If you need a wiring diagram for the FIC 8 I got one from MMCTuner.
08-18-13, 01:26 PM
#124
Driver
Thread Starter
He mentioned that he got 2 wires wrong, but i never got an updated wiring diagram from him.
Where is the best location for a MAP sensor? Can you connect the failsafe gauge to the F-IC8? There were some extra wires called AEM-NET.
It rained the whole weekend in Stockholm, i got bored and disconnected the power steering reservoir and polished it with my trusty dremel and some mothers polish:
/Mike
Last edited by mickesanda; 08-18-13 at 01:30 PM.
08-19-13, 06:08 PM
#125
Yeah that's the wiring diagram he sent me. I remember I found out which wires were wrong. But I'm working away from home until' end of September and I have the file saved on my home computer.
I'm not a tuner and I don't really know if the failsafe and FIC 8 interface with AEM net. I don't know the best location for the map sensor either. Keep up the good work though
Edit: You might want to forget about the FIC 8. After reading more about the Centrifugal being pushed through the MAF it seems like the wrong way to do it. Just go standalone. I'm probably going to get a Megasquirt MS3X. I'm going to ditch the MAF completely.
BTW: If you haven't seen this thread you should check it out
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post8100748
I'm going to run a non-IC setup like KC95.
Either way I think ditching the MAF and getting a standalone will be the best for your setup, you won't have any more headaches.
I'm not a tuner and I don't really know if the failsafe and FIC 8 interface with AEM net. I don't know the best location for the map sensor either. Keep up the good work though
Edit: You might want to forget about the FIC 8. After reading more about the Centrifugal being pushed through the MAF it seems like the wrong way to do it. Just go standalone. I'm probably going to get a Megasquirt MS3X. I'm going to ditch the MAF completely.
BTW: If you haven't seen this thread you should check it out
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post8100748
I'm going to run a non-IC setup like KC95.
Either way I think ditching the MAF and getting a standalone will be the best for your setup, you won't have any more headaches.
Last edited by Clean400; 08-21-13 at 12:26 AM.
08-22-13, 01:45 PM
#126
Intermediate
Sorry folks, I never finished the "clean" version of that diagrams.
The AEM Failsafe can work together with the F/IC-8, the wire to connect to is the "AB signal".
The only problem with that diagram is with sensors. Crank and Cams wires go to the IN of the F/IC from sensors and then OUT to ECU.
I had to install 2.2k ohm resistors between Cam and Crk + and - wires to have a smooth idle.
The AEM Failsafe can work together with the F/IC-8, the wire to connect to is the "AB signal".
The only problem with that diagram is with sensors. Crank and Cams wires go to the IN of the F/IC from sensors and then OUT to ECU.
I had to install 2.2k ohm resistors between Cam and Crk + and - wires to have a smooth idle.
08-22-13, 01:47 PM
#127
Driver
Thread Starter
Sorry folks, I never finished the "clean" version of that diagrams.
The AEM Failsafe can work together with the F/IC-8, the wire to connect to is the "AB signal".
The only problem with that diagram is with sensors. Crank and Cams wires go to the IN of the F/IC from sensors and then OUT to ECU.
I had to install 2.2k ohm resistors between Cam and Crk + and - wires to have a smooth idle.
The AEM Failsafe can work together with the F/IC-8, the wire to connect to is the "AB signal".
The only problem with that diagram is with sensors. Crank and Cams wires go to the IN of the F/IC from sensors and then OUT to ECU.
I had to install 2.2k ohm resistors between Cam and Crk + and - wires to have a smooth idle.
/Mike
08-22-13, 02:05 PM
#128
you can probably do a 90 degree and put it down in that area behind the fog light there is probably enough space there unless your intercooler piping is in the way, but you might be able to fit it right above the IC pipes. you are going to have to step it down from 4" to fit the maf if you try that.
the piggyback doesn't sound like a bad idea, but if you are handy I am pretty sure you can megasquirt anything and there are probably 1uz maps floating around on some other forums.
you definately want both o2's in there, make a new bung for the wideband, it will definately throw things off only having one sensor in.
the piggyback doesn't sound like a bad idea, but if you are handy I am pretty sure you can megasquirt anything and there are probably 1uz maps floating around on some other forums.
you definately want both o2's in there, make a new bung for the wideband, it will definately throw things off only having one sensor in.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-22-13 at 02:12 PM.
08-23-13, 12:01 AM
#129
Driver
Thread Starter
Thx Ali, i will try and will post progress as soon as i have something to show.
Martin, i made a new wiring diagram for the F-IC8. Can you please verify that everything is correct?
I do not own a F-IC8 yet so i just changed the diagram according to your previous post.
F-IC8 PDF
Martin, i made a new wiring diagram for the F-IC8. Can you please verify that everything is correct?
I do not own a F-IC8 yet so i just changed the diagram according to your previous post.
F-IC8 PDF
08-24-13, 12:39 PM
#130
Intermediate
IIRC I put the resistors between the F/IC and the ECU, not between sensors and F/IC.
At first you should install it without intercepting the MAF because it can give you some problems.
Go buy your F/IC as they seem to get costier as time goes by. I bought mine new for $537.
At first you should install it without intercepting the MAF because it can give you some problems.
Go buy your F/IC as they seem to get costier as time goes by. I bought mine new for $537.
08-24-13, 01:36 PM
#131
Driver
Thread Starter
I received my A/C pump a few days ago and i replaced it today, the old one was louder than a coffee grinder. My friend was so kind and let me use his A/C machine and filled the system with 900g gas.
I noticed that the A/C pipes are getting pretty hot and I'm afraid that i need an additional fan. I was thinking a 14" fan in front of the A/C condenser. That would be activated by the A/C pump via a relay. Any thoughts on that ?
I also installed the 12:1 FMU, here is the picture with it installed.
I noticed that my fuel pump is much louder now with the new FMU. Anybody know why?
Besides that no change in the way the car behaves
I drove today almost 80 kilometers to a car meet, almost 1500 cars, apart from the burnout show it was pretty boring.
/Mike
I noticed that the A/C pipes are getting pretty hot and I'm afraid that i need an additional fan. I was thinking a 14" fan in front of the A/C condenser. That would be activated by the A/C pump via a relay. Any thoughts on that ?
I also installed the 12:1 FMU, here is the picture with it installed.
I noticed that my fuel pump is much louder now with the new FMU. Anybody know why?
Besides that no change in the way the car behaves
I drove today almost 80 kilometers to a car meet, almost 1500 cars, apart from the burnout show it was pretty boring.
/Mike
Last edited by mickesanda; 08-24-13 at 01:40 PM.
08-29-13, 12:38 PM
#132
Driver
Thread Starter
Fire
Hello friends,
I've got some sad news, today while i started the engine in the garage at work a loud explosion came from the engine, my friend who was standing next to the car got some minor burns, i i got my extinguisher from the trunk and emptied it, but it didn't make any difference. I work for the fire prevention association (irony) and we had at least 20 extinguishers in the garage right next to my car. I emptied one more, in the mean time some volunteers came with extinguishers and in the end we managed to kill the fire.
Needless to say the smoke was thick and fire department, police and ambulance came, they insisted that we go to the hospital for check-ups, but it was nothing.
I couldn't see that well what was damaged, but most plastic details melted, there is a lot of powder from the extinguisher.
Anyways, the big problem is that my insurance didn't cover fire since it was just a garage policy.
I am thinking that i could buy a 6 cylinder turbo engine instead, but i do not know which one to choose. Or should i buy one more 1UZ-FE?
Any suggestions?
/Mike
I've got some sad news, today while i started the engine in the garage at work a loud explosion came from the engine, my friend who was standing next to the car got some minor burns, i i got my extinguisher from the trunk and emptied it, but it didn't make any difference. I work for the fire prevention association (irony) and we had at least 20 extinguishers in the garage right next to my car. I emptied one more, in the mean time some volunteers came with extinguishers and in the end we managed to kill the fire.
Needless to say the smoke was thick and fire department, police and ambulance came, they insisted that we go to the hospital for check-ups, but it was nothing.
I couldn't see that well what was damaged, but most plastic details melted, there is a lot of powder from the extinguisher.
Anyways, the big problem is that my insurance didn't cover fire since it was just a garage policy.
I am thinking that i could buy a 6 cylinder turbo engine instead, but i do not know which one to choose. Or should i buy one more 1UZ-FE?
Any suggestions?
/Mike
08-29-13, 12:54 PM
#133
man that is rough sorry to hear about that everything was looking very nice as well.
does the motor look toast, it doesn't seem too melted on top maybe power wash it down and see if you can find what the problem was. you could always go with a 1jz or 2jz swap but I would try and locate the problem and see how much was damaged. I would guess the fuel system is a good place to start looking.
also in the future I would not recommend using such a high rate FMU, but probably not the issue on starting.
does the motor look toast, it doesn't seem too melted on top maybe power wash it down and see if you can find what the problem was. you could always go with a 1jz or 2jz swap but I would try and locate the problem and see how much was damaged. I would guess the fuel system is a good place to start looking.
also in the future I would not recommend using such a high rate FMU, but probably not the issue on starting.
08-29-13, 12:58 PM
#134
Driver
Thread Starter
Thx Ali, I suspect a fuel hose as well, but i'll power wash it tomorrow and see what was damaged.
Maybe it's not that much. I noticed both spark plug covers, the cover in the middle, some wiring, both electrical fans which are only minor costs
I'll keep you informed.
/Mike
Maybe it's not that much. I noticed both spark plug covers, the cover in the middle, some wiring, both electrical fans which are only minor costs
I'll keep you informed.
/Mike
08-29-13, 05:42 PM
#135
I'm really sorry this happened to you Mike!
I bet once you clean everything up it won't be as bad as it looks right now.
You'll have to access the true damage once it's clean.
I'm doing a supercharger project right now too, but I'm going with a twin screw setup on my 1uz.
Don't give up on the 1uz!