Tt ecu on obd2 car
02-10-13, 05:28 PM
#32
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Ya I think I'm gonna buy a gte upper intake an have the 2 welded together its hard to find a gte head cheap let me know how this works out for u I might change out the gear anyway if I'm gonna be in there and try a 7m cps
02-11-13, 12:31 PM
#35
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From what I have read the jdm intake matches up pretty good u can bolt 5 out of 7 and you just need to do alittle port matching or maybe I'll cut off both flanges and make it all one piece ill have to pick one up and play with it I really don't want to relocate the battery did that in my 240 and it was a pain to get it all to work right
02-11-13, 01:08 PM
#36
best way is to cut the upper tt runner and the lower ge runner and weld them together, and its not a perfectly straight weld that way either. Bolting route with port matching is not the most ideal, but people do try it for some reason.
I relocated my battery with one long positive cable, a short ground cable, and I used a fuse that can be reset instead of changed. Didn't take very long.
I relocated my battery with one long positive cable, a short ground cable, and I used a fuse that can be reset instead of changed. Didn't take very long.
02-11-13, 02:31 PM
#38
I made myself one like in this thread, except I used the D plenum, which is larger than the half round used there.
IMO the stock intake is better than trying to retrofit the GTE intake manifold.
If you have to go FFIM, do it properly and go custom or aftermarket, or run a TT head and all the hardware.
sounds harsh, but its more helpfull than trying to do it and troubleshooting for forever when I have seen 600+hp on the stock intake.
even the slightest disturbance of the air before it enters the chamber is not optimal or good for a turbo engine.
Thats why I always say use the stock lower runners on the GE, they are perfectly designed from the factory.
Everytime you dogleg cut and weld something, or match 5 out of 7 bolts with a very thin edge of gasket or in some places no gasket, you are sacrificing your setup.
I have seen every thread with a 2jzgte manifold bolted to the 2jzge runners, and all were parted out shortly after and 1 had engine damage.
The only ones that work are the ones that are cut and welded lower runners, and from an airflow standpoint I cannot promote such mods but it works.
For me it has to be much better than what you already have, or it is clearly not worth it, and the stock intake works pretty well unless you run a turbo with a 3" compressor outlet and you pretty much should go FFIM with a q45 TB at that point to maximize your setup.
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-kinda-i...alysis-363346/
IMO the stock intake is better than trying to retrofit the GTE intake manifold.
If you have to go FFIM, do it properly and go custom or aftermarket, or run a TT head and all the hardware.
sounds harsh, but its more helpfull than trying to do it and troubleshooting for forever when I have seen 600+hp on the stock intake.
even the slightest disturbance of the air before it enters the chamber is not optimal or good for a turbo engine.
Thats why I always say use the stock lower runners on the GE, they are perfectly designed from the factory.
Everytime you dogleg cut and weld something, or match 5 out of 7 bolts with a very thin edge of gasket or in some places no gasket, you are sacrificing your setup.
I have seen every thread with a 2jzgte manifold bolted to the 2jzge runners, and all were parted out shortly after and 1 had engine damage.
The only ones that work are the ones that are cut and welded lower runners, and from an airflow standpoint I cannot promote such mods but it works.
For me it has to be much better than what you already have, or it is clearly not worth it, and the stock intake works pretty well unless you run a turbo with a 3" compressor outlet and you pretty much should go FFIM with a q45 TB at that point to maximize your setup.
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-kinda-i...alysis-363346/
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-11-13 at 02:37 PM.
02-11-13, 03:57 PM
#40
thats what I did although the xspower one looks tempting you don't have to do any of the work and the price is not bad at all compared to the cost of parts and then what a welder and polisher will charge you. you are stuck with that type of throttle body though or you have to mod it.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-11-13 at 04:06 PM.
02-12-13, 08:57 AM
#44
If you want to keep the battery you probably don't want the q45 throttle body, it has all that stuff cold idle stuff on the side and even when you remove that it is still bulky (and when removed you have no cold idle up).
maybe try making your intake a little shorter and use a longer thinner mk4 throttle body.
you can also chop off the end of one of those to make it shorter and remove all the trac stuff.
Only thing is you will need to make a throttle body flange for it RMR does not make on for the mk4 TB.
Also the mk4 does not have a cold idle up like the q45, you will need the 7m IACV or keep your foot the gas while its warming up.
maybe try making your intake a little shorter and use a longer thinner mk4 throttle body.
you can also chop off the end of one of those to make it shorter and remove all the trac stuff.
Only thing is you will need to make a throttle body flange for it RMR does not make on for the mk4 TB.
Also the mk4 does not have a cold idle up like the q45, you will need the 7m IACV or keep your foot the gas while its warming up.
02-12-13, 12:00 PM
#45
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Ya ill start playing around with some ideas soon when I pick up my spare motor and I finaly get into my house with a garage then I can make some magic happen cars away now for the winter so soon ill start playing with this build thanks for all the advice