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1992 5 Factory 5 Speed SC 1jzgte conversion HELP PLEASE!!!

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Old 02-15-13, 08:37 PM   #31
SupraDremr
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I actually work all weekend...But I will be doing what I can after work until dark. And yes I am working outside. So the rain will suck...No luxury of a garage here though. LOL Gotta get the 2jz out tomorrow so I can get the engine and tranny separated and the flywheel resurfaced Monday. Do I really have to resurface the flywheel if I am using the same clutch? Then mate the 1jz and my w58 and in she will go. I have to get the engine in quick cause I only will have use of the cherry picker for a few days max. I have a few connectors I need to locate online and replace, have to also order the TT throttle cable and source an i/c and piping. Anything I am missing here? Do I need to swap the alternator off of my 2jz onto my 1jz? I remember reading on a tread somewhere I needed to do that...I have read so many threads though my mind is a bit of a mess. lol
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Old 02-16-13, 05:15 PM   #32
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I do believe you need to swap alternators. Are you going to be doing an preventive maintenance before you put drop the motor in?
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Old 02-16-13, 06:03 PM   #33
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if you are using the same clutch then there is no reason to resurface as the clutch/flywheel are already worn into each other.

i would check the clutch though (how many miles does it have on it). it might be wise just to put a new clutch in since you have it apart..

Marko
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Old 02-17-13, 07:32 AM   #34
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What connectors do you need
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Old 02-17-13, 05:32 PM   #35
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I read about swapping the alternator somewhere else as well... Why is this needed? Are Japanese cars ran on different voltage than 12 volts? Good to hear I do not have to resurface the flywheel... I replaced the clutch just over 6,000 miles ago. Had it done at a shop and the flywheel was resurfaced then. As far as preventative maintenance goes. I will be doing the plugs, timing belt and fluids. Depending on how long this takes me to do I might also do the oil and water pumps and possibly even upgrade the clutch who knows. We will have to see how it goes and what money flows in for parts. lol I do know that just buying the engine alone was a pretty bug expenditure in the misses eyes so I won't be getting away with too many extra purchases unless totally warranted and needed for at least a little bit.

Haven't had much time since y last post to get much of anything done. Got the cherry picker brought to my house and I got 2 of the 4 bolts off of the intermediate shaft but the other 2 are STUCK...I sprayed them with some pb blaster today and will try them again tomorrow. If need be I guess I will have to go invest in a propane torch and heat dem babies up...lol Those two bolts and the engine mount bolts and a hoistin I will be. lol
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Old 02-17-13, 07:37 PM   #36
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i think the alternator swap has to do with the power harness going to the battery / rest of the car, if you reuse your old alternator then the plugs fit right in, otherwise they might not. just compare them when you have the engines out side by side.
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Old 02-19-13, 04:25 AM   #37
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I see, now it makes sense... I don't know why I didnt think about the plug on the alternator...lol

Got the engine out lastnight. All by myself might I add. Did really good too until I was pushing the car out of the way from the jack so I could lower the engine the tranny swung back around and clipped my a/c condenser with the crossmeber bolts on the tranny. Needless to say the condenser is toast. lol Dammit! Pics coming this afternoon after work when I can upload them
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Old 02-19-13, 05:39 PM   #38
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Well I got the tranny and 2jz separated today and removed the clutch and flywheel. I also removed the rear main seal on the 1jz motor to replace it while I am here. I a a bit confused though with it. The seal is housed in a metal bracket and I cant see to remove the rubber seal from it to replace. I see the seal online but have no idea how to take the seal out or to put the new one in.


Anyone here??

And of course some pics to keep you all interested:

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Ended up taking the hood off afterwards...lol Barely got the engine out with it on...Dont wanna have to put the new one in with it on...WOuld be a pain in the ****...lol


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Old 02-19-13, 06:08 PM   #39
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You should get new Fly wheel bolts. Stock bolts are torque to yield.
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Old 02-19-13, 06:44 PM   #40
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very good to know...thanks blk&blu*j . I will definitely grab some at toyota tomorrow. I gotta go and bring in my rear main housing and see if they can tell me how to get the old seal out without messing up or marring the housing. Unless you guys can tell me... I pulled my 2jz rear main off cause they are the same and tried cutting it out and was only able to cut out a portion and cant remove the rest of the seal..there has to be some stupid trick or way of doing this I a sure...Anyone?

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Old 02-20-13, 03:36 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estomax View Post
if you are using the same clutch then there is no reason to resurface as the clutch/flywheel are already worn into each other.

i would check the clutch though (how many miles does it have on it). it might be wise just to put a new clutch in since you have it apart..

Marko
And do the rear main seal.


Edit: I read one post down and saw that you did it, lol.
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Old 02-20-13, 05:13 PM   #42
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Regarding the rear seal just take a sharp pointed pick and from the inside diameter move the rubber edge and get the pick behind the retention spring and pry it out.GL
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Old 02-20-13, 07:43 PM   #43
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Ordered the seal today. Should have it tomorrow. Gonna hopefully get the seal back in, flywheel and clutch on the 1jz and then mate the w58 to the 1jz. Gotta go to the toyota dealer and grab some flywheel bolts too. Was super tired and it was raining anyways after work today so I didn't get anything else other than the seal ordered. lol

I will get a pic of the damaged harness connector tomorrow... I believe it is one of the gray body connectors so I should be able to use the same body connector from my sc300 harness to fix it right?

I am gonna start the wiring harness extension tomorrow hopefully after I get the tranny hooked up and get the spark plugs changed out as well. I have NGK Iridiums I bought for my 2jz just a few months ago and never installed. Is the gap the same? Or do I need to re gap them? If so to what?


As far as other items needed to complete my build here, I need to aquire an intercooler blow off valve and piping for the i/c , either factory or aftermarket...Anyone with input on where they have found theirs or the best route to go with this?

Engine mounts...both of my rubber mounts are split and not good for reuse...I am going to most likely order a set from driftmotion =. They seem to be the most affordable and a better option than stock for durability being encased in the metal housing.

Exhaust... My exhaust coming off my 1jz is non existent...I see a lot of the swap engines come with a portion of exhaust extending off the exhaust manifold and downward which I do not have. Do I need to aquire this too? Or will an exhaust shop be able to make something to modify it to hook up to my factory sc exhaust? I have an aftermarket 2jz v bandn stainless turbo downpipe any chance that might work?

Anything I am missing?

Oh one ore thing... as far as wastegate/s and a blow off valve go ... do the turbos have internal wastegates? And I assume I just need to incorporate a blow off valve in my intercooler piping correct? Opinions? Best options here?


What else do I need to complete this guys? Tach adapter? Neutral bypass? I wanna get everything I need aquired or ordered tomorrow and get this done in the next week or so hopefully.
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Old 02-20-13, 07:46 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk&blu*j View Post
Regarding the rear seal just take a sharp pointed pick and from the inside diameter move the rubber edge and get the pick behind the retention spring and pry it out.GL
Thanks man! I actually had a guy at the Autozone down the road show me how to remove the seal from the housing... I just didnt understand how it came apart until he did it. Now I get it. Seal should be there in the morning and I will pick it and a tube of gasket sealer and get at least that done.
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Old 02-20-13, 07:51 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SupraDremr View Post
Thanks man! I actually had a guy at the Autozone down the road show me how to remove the seal from the housing... I just didnt understand how it came apart until he did it. Now I get it. Seal should be there in the morning and I will pick it and a tube of gasket sealer and get at least that done.
Awesome man. It seems to be working out for you in your build. Remember Rome wasn't built in a day. Take your time, do things right, do half crap anything, or you will wishing you didn't while you have everything out. Do things right the first time.

Second, listen to what Roger (blk and blue) has to say. He is very, very knowledgeable.

Roger don't let this go to your head either.
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Old 02-20-13, 07:51 PM
 
 
 
 
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1jz, 1jzgte, act, bolt, difference, factory, flywheel, gte, jzz30, jzza30, lexus, sc300, speed, state, washington

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