Clean400

iTrader: (2)

I got a few PMs on where to tap the fuel for a wet nitrous system. This is what my installer did.











Don't mind the leaves! haha My car's been sitting outside at my installer's place for a long time. Hopefully getting it back tomorrow if the transgo shift kit goes well... but I've been told I've been getting my car back many times before so who knows! lol

I'll do a full nitrous write-up when I'm done school on the 7th. Basically I'll share everything I learned about doing the nitrous install, and all of the information I learned from Lextreme and Clublexus when it comes to nitrous and the SC400.

Kpierce007

How much did your whole setup cost? and also a bottle of Grease Lightning and a water hose will have your engine bay looking brand new

Clean400

iTrader: (2)

haha yea when I was taking pics I kind of felt ashamed of the dirtiness of my engine bay. Poor 1uz lol.

Off the top of my head.

Bought a full basic kit used on Kijiji for $850

Nitrous Tank
Bottle Heater
Lines
Throttle Position Sensor
Misc switches and relays that I didn't end up using. In retrospect I probably could have got a better deal on this kit. Dynotune has some nice prices on full kits and good customer service.

Then I purchased the following (prices are off the top of my head)

Nano Nitrous $300-400
Dynotune Nitrous Switch $120 ish
Some new relays and misc tubing (duno $30?)
Window Switch $160 (I should have bought a progressive switch)
Nitrous filter $50
Dynotune Purge (forget maybe like $80?)

$850 + $400 + $120 +$30 + $160+50+80

$1690. Plus install. Probably like $2100-2200 when all was said and done after install. Mind you some things are unnecessary in my kit. The dynotune nitrous switch is a really nice piece, I'd recommend it but you could do without it. The Nano nitrous is not needed as well but I would recommend it too. It's an expansion tank that keeps your tank ready at 1050psi, not need for a bottle heater. You don't have to wait 30 minutes to heat up your bottle, you're always ready to race. You fill it with compressed air. Another thing that's great about it is that your nitrous shot stays constantly at 1050psi through the entire nitrous shot. It doesn't taper off like it would normally with a heater. Resulting in a faster 1/4 time. Purge is not needed but I recommend it.

I should have bought a progressive window switch to begin with. But you live and you learn. I'm going to be buying a Megasquirt MS3X sometime during the winter and installing that. It's a standalone ECU that has progressive nitrous controls. I'll be able to advance timing when not on the nitrous. When I arm my nitrous it will switch to a nitrous map, that will pull maybe like 4-6 degrees of timing. I want to run a 150 progressive shot.

The progressive nitrous shot, and pulling timing is not needed. But recommended. The 1UZ runs really rich so you could run up to 150 shot without pulling any timing with a wet kit. Progressive is not needed either but traction is going to be an issue if you plan on running 150 shot unless you have slicks.

Long term plan is direct port with like a 200 shot... but I'm sure it's going to take me a long time to get bored of the 150 shot. My goal is to run a 13.0 with the 150 shot.

If I ran into a boatload of cash I'd run a vortech and run a nitrous shot over that but that would be long long term dreams lol.

Anyways I'll make a more in depth thread when I have the time I'm at school "studying" lol.

rcchris7

iTrader: (1)

Very interesting... If I can't sell my 1uz to w58 swap and end up keeping the UZ I will be finding this thread quite useful

Clean400

iTrader: (2)

LoL being the curious kijiji searcher for SC parts I think I found your ad haha.

I posted it on our TLS (Toyota Lexus Scion) facebook club in Montreal. I have a buddy with an SC400 who's been wanting to swap it manual for a long time.

You have an auto TT lsd for sale too? I just bought my Torsen LSD... I would have bought yours lol.