I hate my car
#31
So the BOV was a huge problem, so on the recirculate portion, it needs to go back into the intake correct?
I still have a sinking feeling that it's also the distance of the KMV sensor, I don't know what else it could be.
#32
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
Hey Ali, so the car ran pretty good today. I got 70 miles to my quarter tank (not the 100 I used to get, but at least it's not the 40 I got last week). The bucking was very limited! It still did it, but about half of what it normally did.
So the BOV was a huge problem, so on the recirculate portion, it needs to go back into the intake correct?
I still have a sinking feeling that it's also the distance of the KMV sensor, I don't know what else it could be.
So the BOV was a huge problem, so on the recirculate portion, it needs to go back into the intake correct?
I still have a sinking feeling that it's also the distance of the KMV sensor, I don't know what else it could be.
KMV distance is not a huge deal, but what is a huge deal is that there is no bend within a foot in front of the maf (the side it takes in air from, not the turbo side). So if you have pipe after your maf that bends you can have issues as well, it should be straight filter before the maf, or a straight section and then a bend. maybe you should post a picture up I can tell if its right or not. Thats why they put that comb on the front, if the air isn't going past perfectly straight, it will not deflect properly, and the frequency picked up by the meter will be off. this does not happen with a hotwire maf, but the honeycomb in front usually does a pretty good job of getting the air straight enough but straight sections help out alot.
you may see better results from recirculating vs just blocking off the bov even, although im not sure it will clear up all your issues 100%, there is still just the wierd nature of the n/a ecu.
Do you already have a type that can be recirculated by just getting the fitting?
#33
Okay,
So I do actually have a bend right in front of it.
I don't have an actual picture of it, but from the blower's intake, there's an elbow there that points it down right before the back of the head light. Then a small straight pipe, then another elbow. That elbow (which is now facing the car) has the KMV sensor, then a couple that goes into a metal elbow, and finally the filter.
So the circuit goes as so
Filter, metal elbow coupler, KMV, silicone elbow, metal straight pipe, silicone elbow blower.
I don't think there's any way I can put the filter right after the KMV sensor, or a straight for that matter. It's gonna be hella difficult, since there isn't any room. I was thinking last night, that if I were to put the KMV sensor in the engine bay, I'd have a bit more room.
It would look ugly but I can have it cross over the radiator, but I don't know how much more room there is though with the hood closed.
So I do actually have a bend right in front of it.
I don't have an actual picture of it, but from the blower's intake, there's an elbow there that points it down right before the back of the head light. Then a small straight pipe, then another elbow. That elbow (which is now facing the car) has the KMV sensor, then a couple that goes into a metal elbow, and finally the filter.
So the circuit goes as so
Filter, metal elbow coupler, KMV, silicone elbow, metal straight pipe, silicone elbow blower.
I don't think there's any way I can put the filter right after the KMV sensor, or a straight for that matter. It's gonna be hella difficult, since there isn't any room. I was thinking last night, that if I were to put the KMV sensor in the engine bay, I'd have a bit more room.
It would look ugly but I can have it cross over the radiator, but I don't know how much more room there is though with the hood closed.
#34
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
sort of hard to picture but I can tell space is going to be a bit of a concern on your setup, and it sounds like you have the filter in the fender.
I would try and make it as short as possible and keep the maf in the bay by the headlight.
so filter in corner directly attatched to the maf, then whatever angles you need to get to the supercharger.
another thing the stock ecu doesn't like is cooler than expected intake temps, you may be measuring very cold air and the actual air going into the engine is much hotter than that by the time it makes its way through the supercharger, and it doesn't know there should be a difference because its a n/a ecu. I would recommend keeping it in the bay you actually want stable air intakes on that type of ecu.
a mega-squirt or the standalone you have would probably give you the most out of your setup, unfortunately there is no factory turbo 1uz ecu to work with, and even the JDM 1uz's had maf sensors which is really annoying, if they had map we could wire in one of those but as far as I know it doesn't exist.
I would try and make it as short as possible and keep the maf in the bay by the headlight.
so filter in corner directly attatched to the maf, then whatever angles you need to get to the supercharger.
another thing the stock ecu doesn't like is cooler than expected intake temps, you may be measuring very cold air and the actual air going into the engine is much hotter than that by the time it makes its way through the supercharger, and it doesn't know there should be a difference because its a n/a ecu. I would recommend keeping it in the bay you actually want stable air intakes on that type of ecu.
a mega-squirt or the standalone you have would probably give you the most out of your setup, unfortunately there is no factory turbo 1uz ecu to work with, and even the JDM 1uz's had maf sensors which is really annoying, if they had map we could wire in one of those but as far as I know it doesn't exist.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-05-12 at 03:09 PM.
#36
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
well try and get a few inches of straight section after it also if you can but yeah then you can turn it however you want.
it definitely needs to be straight going into the maf and a little bit of straight after will also help so the airflow is not disturbed.
Makes you wonder what toyota was thinking with these mafs, but if you look at whats on the generation before that with the flapper door 0-9V maf's and talk to one of those guys, you will actually feel a little better about your maf which has piggyback support.
on the flapper doors there is a spring you can turn, thats all the adjustment you get.. lol.
it definitely needs to be straight going into the maf and a little bit of straight after will also help so the airflow is not disturbed.
Makes you wonder what toyota was thinking with these mafs, but if you look at whats on the generation before that with the flapper door 0-9V maf's and talk to one of those guys, you will actually feel a little better about your maf which has piggyback support.
on the flapper doors there is a spring you can turn, thats all the adjustment you get.. lol.
#37
It got worst, it drives even worse then it did before, I think I'm just going to wait until the stuff makes it in. Sucks having two projects going on at one time. SC4 is waiting for the ECU going in, the RB-Z is waiting for the A/C heater stuff to go in.
So I guess I'm stuck with the SW20 which isn't too bad I guess
#38
Intermediate
Your engine IS NOT unreliable and when you figure it out you´ll love it again.
I was having crap idle, car shutting off and very poor gas mileage (my 1uz is turbo, not supercharged) and thought it was a ECU relearning problem (stock ecu) ´til I found that the extra pressure damaged the intake hose and that air was venting after the maf. Once I solved that issue, car run fine again.
Good luck!
I was having crap idle, car shutting off and very poor gas mileage (my 1uz is turbo, not supercharged) and thought it was a ECU relearning problem (stock ecu) ´til I found that the extra pressure damaged the intake hose and that air was venting after the maf. Once I solved that issue, car run fine again.
Good luck!
#41
Your engine IS NOT unreliable and when you figure it out you´ll love it again.
I was having crap idle, car shutting off and very poor gas mileage (my 1uz is turbo, not supercharged) and thought it was a ECU relearning problem (stock ecu) ´til I found that the extra pressure damaged the intake hose and that air was venting after the maf. Once I solved that issue, car run fine again.
Good luck!
I was having crap idle, car shutting off and very poor gas mileage (my 1uz is turbo, not supercharged) and thought it was a ECU relearning problem (stock ecu) ´til I found that the extra pressure damaged the intake hose and that air was venting after the maf. Once I solved that issue, car run fine again.
Good luck!
Thanks for the kind words of encouragement everyone. It means a lot of me, and those who are watching the thread, I'm willing to try anything, we have a few weeks before I gather all the parts (injectors included), and the tuner to come check out the adaptronic. In the mean time, I'm out of ideas, so if anyone can come up with anything else, let me know.
As far as I'm concerned, I'm fed up with the stock management, we've figured out that the BOV was causing major issues, and now it's the KMV sensor.
#43
Martin,
It's not that bad, just follow Carlos' pin out. You might want to double check since I don't know about the ECU wiring changes between the years (if there were any). I followed it, and did the base setup on the F/IC and all of it seemed to work.
It's not that bad, just follow Carlos' pin out. You might want to double check since I don't know about the ECU wiring changes between the years (if there were any). I followed it, and did the base setup on the F/IC and all of it seemed to work.
#45
If you're running the stock injectors etc, all you have to do is load up the base map. Once everything is calibrated (RPM, TPS) it should run stock.
I ended up driving around just to make sure everything ran as it did prior. And it did, once you got that far then you can start playing with it.
I ended up driving around just to make sure everything ran as it did prior. And it did, once you got that far then you can start playing with it.