Engine noise only when in gear
11-24-12, 10:28 AM
#1
Engine noise only when in gear
Only when I'm in gear, D, R, 1, 2 and 3. No noise while I am idling. My tensioner pully is a bit week and if you notice in the video it kinda "shivers" when there is noise. A buddy of mine said engine mounts. Can somebody confirm?
11-24-12, 12:07 PM
#2
I would say it's engine mounts as well. Any change in noise/vibration of the engine when in gear usually ends up being mounts. Hard to tell from the sound on the movie, but it could make any number of different vibrational sounds. Open the hood, and have a buddy start and put the car into gear while you watch the motor. The motor will "pull" or "twist" to the side when the transmission engages into D or R, and you will see it relax when its shifted back into P or N. Bad motor mounts will let the engine twist or pull to much in either direction. I used to put cars in gear (usually the idle would drop to around 750 rpm's when the engine is warm), then I would very slowly raise the RPM's while holding the brake firmly applied. If you have a bad mount, usually you will see the engine is able to twist far more then you would expect it to in either D or R. Just don't powerbrake the engine like this for more than a second or two. It creates a lot of heat in the transmission.
11-24-12, 02:00 PM
#4
I would say it's engine mounts as well. Any change in noise/vibration of the engine when in gear usually ends up being mounts. Hard to tell from the sound on the movie, but it could make any number of different vibrational sounds. Open the hood, and have a buddy start and put the car into gear while you watch the motor. The motor will "pull" or "twist" to the side when the transmission engages into D or R, and you will see it relax when its shifted back into P or N. Bad motor mounts will let the engine twist or pull to much in either direction. I used to put cars in gear (usually the idle would drop to around 750 rpm's when the engine is warm), then I would very slowly raise the RPM's while holding the brake firmly applied. If you have a bad mount, usually you will see the engine is able to twist far more then you would expect it to in either D or R. Just don't powerbrake the engine like this for more than a second or two. It creates a lot of heat in the transmission.
Update: I sprayed Pb blaster on the pulleys and the noise disappeared. How difficult is it to replace that pulley?
Last edited by Kalogerus; 11-24-12 at 02:37 PM.
11-24-12, 02:54 PM
#5
Only you can find out which exact pulley it is. But if you're saying you sprayed PB blaster on all drive belt pulleys, then it's just outside, not inside where the timing belt is. Why don't you remove the drive belt and spin each pulley by hand to find out which one is bad? Except for the crank pulley of course you can't spin that by hand...
11-24-12, 03:26 PM
#6
I did that before I sprayed pb blaster, spun all of them by hand and even the crank pulley with a ratchet. Nothing... not a single squeak from any of them. Tensioner isnt very tight, however. I know thats gotta get replaced once my back recovers.
PS: I am about 9 pages into your build thread. Totally love it, especially its the same color as mine
. More well done than my dad's steak 
PS: I am about 9 pages into your build thread. Totally love it, especially its the same color as mine
. More well done than my dad's steak
Trending Topics
11-24-12, 04:28 PM
#8
I've had bad water pumps before, once they start going bad it is a constant squeal. In gear or not it will squeal. Also my water pump is relatively new (previous owner replaced it along with timing belt a few months before I bought it). I really wanted to stay away from that area until the winter passes since it can get cold outside and I have no garage... or funds to be completely honest (since I want to replace vc gasket, spark plugs and wires, starter and the whole nine yards in that area while it is open). I'll try to isolate which pulley it is by spraying pb blaster on each pulley separately?
Side note: What I respect most about your build is that you're keeping it 95. I contemplated for a long time to do the 97 conversion and the deals only came when I cant afford em. After seeing your build, I am a proud 95'er to the fullest
EDIT: I just thought, my water pump is leaking, I dont know whether from the lines or from the pump itself but it is leaking. I never really bothered to check. Could that be it?
Side note: What I respect most about your build is that you're keeping it 95. I contemplated for a long time to do the 97 conversion and the deals only came when I cant afford em. After seeing your build, I am a proud 95'er to the fullest
EDIT: I just thought, my water pump is leaking, I dont know whether from the lines or from the pump itself but it is leaking. I never really bothered to check. Could that be it?
Last edited by Kalogerus; 11-24-12 at 04:34 PM.
11-24-12, 05:07 PM
#9
That might be it man. That's exactly my symptoms I've been living with for the past 3-4 months. I haven't replaced mine 'cause OLT said that the great thing about 92-95 SC's is that you don't need to replace parts until they stop working completely, so I'm just maximizing mine. Previous owner also said he got the timing belt, waterpump and all those stuff replaced at 152k(bought mine at 163k), but it turns out my waterpump has never been replaced and started developing leak and squealing sounds after I fixed the cam oil seal. Cause according to OLT as well, when the tension on the timing belt is loosened the seal of the waterpump breaks.
I don't really see the logic in upgrading to a 97 body kit or tail lights. I feel like my SC wouldn't be keeping it real. If I'd get a body kit, I'd get aftermarket. If I'd change tail lights I'd do custom. Just doesn't make sense to me, sorry. Lol
I don't really see the logic in upgrading to a 97 body kit or tail lights. I feel like my SC wouldn't be keeping it real. If I'd get a body kit, I'd get aftermarket. If I'd change tail lights I'd do custom. Just doesn't make sense to me, sorry. Lol
12-10-12, 04:31 AM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi, from the video it sounds like your Air Condition compressor pump bearings are bad. Mine does it and you can hear the sound with the A/C on and the compressor engaging. When the A/C is on, the compressor pump runs fequently off and on (about 10 secs on then 10 secs off, depending on temp load), the clutch on the compressor side engages to turn with the continuously turning pulley with the belt. Compressor running: clutch engaged, compressor not running: clutch in neutral. Extra note, you idler pulleys do sound bad, replace them.
Make sure you tightening the belts not too tight, too tight and it puts more strain on the pulleys which mean earlier failure of the bearings and louder noises.
Forgot to mention, if the car shivers or vibrates more when the A/C compressor comes on (sometimes you can hear it click and see your idle change a little down) then I would say your mounts are bad somewhere. After I changed my transmission mount (95 Es300) I've noticed a big difference in vibration going away, especially when the A/C compressor kicks in.
Make sure you tightening the belts not too tight, too tight and it puts more strain on the pulleys which mean earlier failure of the bearings and louder noises.
Forgot to mention, if the car shivers or vibrates more when the A/C compressor comes on (sometimes you can hear it click and see your idle change a little down) then I would say your mounts are bad somewhere. After I changed my transmission mount (95 Es300) I've noticed a big difference in vibration going away, especially when the A/C compressor kicks in.
Last edited by LexusFool; 12-10-12 at 04:36 AM. Reason: Added
12-10-12, 09:44 AM
#12
woah slow down there guys, spray the pulleys one at a time so you know which one is bad.
If you sprayed all at once with the car off, wait until said offending noise comes back, and try it again one at a time when its running. don't spray on the belt directly (not good), spray in the center bearing part and give each one like 5-10 seconds to see if the noise stops before moving on.
If you sprayed all at once with the car off, wait until said offending noise comes back, and try it again one at a time when its running. don't spray on the belt directly (not good), spray in the center bearing part and give each one like 5-10 seconds to see if the noise stops before moving on.
12-11-12, 04:25 AM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
woah slow down there guys, spray the pulleys one at a time so you know which one is bad.
If you sprayed all at once with the car off, wait until said offending noise comes back, and try it again one at a time when its running. don't spray on the belt directly (not good), spray in the center bearing part and give each one like 5-10 seconds to see if the noise stops before moving on.
If you sprayed all at once with the car off, wait until said offending noise comes back, and try it again one at a time when its running. don't spray on the belt directly (not good), spray in the center bearing part and give each one like 5-10 seconds to see if the noise stops before moving on.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
en11871
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
22
04-04-13 10:36 PM
smigu
Performance & Maintenance
1
08-24-10 01:30 PM
