OBEEWON

I am trying to pull codes for my issue (cannot give car throttle or it dies, will not rev past 2k rpm).

I followed the wiring procedure as described in the 1J into SC4 thread. move blue and yellow wire from white SC4 body side plug to orange body side plug.

My CEL came on, but when I jumped the diag ports the light will not flash. It stays solid. I tried playing with the ports while the engine is running and it lowers the idle when they are jumped. So I know I am getting a connection. I also tried a new ecu and pulling the fuse for 30 seconds to reset it, but I cannot get the CEL to flash to show a code.

PLEASE help.

Thanks.

OB

Candela

iTrader: (1)

I've done this on a 2J swap with a paperclip and it blinked. Maybe the one in the dash? Another old school ECU reset trick disconnect the battery and touch the 2 terminals together for about 10 seconds and see.

PS: Nice beamer lol

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Two different ecus doing the same thing leads me to believe your wiring is wrong.
Find diagrams for your specific year/model, then make sure that pin w at the 1j ecu goes to the body plug pin w goes to from your stock ecu to the body, then ground out pin te1. You can ground it out anywhere, all the E1 circuit is is a ground circuit. If your wiring is correct, then I'd assume you have two bad ecus which is a longshot, but possible. My bet is on wiring. I never go by color, but by actual circuit and verify it by continuity if it can't be visually verified.

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

that was my cel guide you probably followed. there may be a diff between years
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-1jz-swap.html


1. what year is your car?
2. sc300 or sc400?
3. what year is the 1jz
4. is the 1jz from a soarer? Cressida?
5. does the cel come on with the key on? does it stay lit?
6. does the cel come on with the car started? does it stay on or does it stay lit for a few seconds then disappear?

OBEEWON

Thanks for the replies.

93MSB thank you for the CEL guide. Info is hard to find, I appreciate folk like you putting it out there.

I'm doing the paperclip method but nothing. The light just stays on solid.

1. 92
2. This is a SC400. I pulled the engine from my SC300 (SC300 was a 92 as well)
3. Engine is a 92
4. Engine is from a 92 Soarer
5. After rewiring accoring to your guide the CEL comes on with the key on. Stays lit. (before doing the wiring move there was no CEL light)
6. After the car is started the CEL stays lit and does not go away.



Good point. I will look into that.

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

it sounds like you did it correctly.

double check and make sure the blue/yellow wire is in ik2(white) pin9

do a continuity(resistance) test on ik2 pin9 and the "w" pin on the ecu


also check resistance between "w" at ecu and "w" at the diagnostic port in the engine bay

another thing you might try is jumping te1 and e1 at the diagnostic port under the driver side dash and see if it does the same thing

if all that checks out you may have an issue with the te1 or e1 circuit as vrank said

OBEEWON

I mispoke. I followed this guide: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...00-thread.html

Specifically this portion:

Section 2: Wiring

-Extend the 5 body harness plugs blah blah blah you have heard it before. I extended mine 24" and that is a bit much, i would say 18-20" would be good and still leave a good amount of slack.

-Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack, and the heater control valve if needed.

-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way.

-Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working.


Is there more to this than just that one wire?

OBEEWON

Ahh, so I should be jumping the port under the dash or in the engine bay next to the intake manifold?

We were doing cont testing, but I will check again. Thanks.

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

my thread has detailed pics of the procedure if that helps you any
it should be just that one wire though

either port is fine, they are the essentially the same thing just in a diff location. don't use both at the same time though

OBEEWON

Alright. Thanks. I will give that a shot. If anyone has any other ideas feel free!

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

let me know what you find on the resistance test, we can work on the te1 circuit next

OBEEWON

So everything seems fine on the resistance test. I got the same reading at the ecu, engine bay diag port and the port under the dash.

I am completely lost.

If I cannot figure that portion out I guess my only recourse is to buy sensors one by one and try them. I've already done: Pump, Alt, MAP, ECU, Ignitor...

Any clues? Im going to buy a test light and try and pull codes from the ECU.

Also if I pull the fuse to clear the codes the light stays on. I cannot clear it.

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

do a continuity test between TE1 pin at the ecu and TE1 at the diagnostic ports

also make sure E1 at the at the diagnostic port is getting continuity at the intake manifold ground

OBEEWON

OK will check that tonight.

Intake manifold ground is the thick gauge wire at the back of the manifold right?

93MSB

iTrader: (8)

there are two grounds along the side of the intake at the front and rear, the wires are held on by 10mm bolts. if you don't get continuity at one ground try the other