Shadowen

iTrader: (6)

I ended up receiving rod studs instead of head studs. So when I got to that point i'd had them sitting too long to return/exchange them. (money took a different path than to my pocket so the machine work to the block took longer than expected) Anyhow, I had to order new head studs.

I'm wondering If I should use the rod studs in place of the stock ones or if I'm fine with the stock's. I've got ACL race bearings on stock rods and cranks. I'm wanting to do 600 +/-50 horse power. I know a lot of you will say just use them since I've got them, but I could really use the money for something else. I still need that small overpriced timing belt tensioner as well as a clutch and flywheel, coil packs, ect...


Thoughts?

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

use the rod studs .. your motor is still avail to get them installed and clearanced correctly . you want them there to help keep your assembly together in the exhaust stroke . the timing belt tensioner is not that critical at this horsepower unless you are running very aggressive and high lift cams , aand can be changed out easily down the road anyways

sc400ka

lexforlife speaks the truth.

i usually replace stock hardwear with arp if i can.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

dude you will need main cap before you need the rod bolts seriously. so i wouldn't worry about replacing them that's just me.

timing belt tensioner , i am on stock cams and i broke 3 of them , check out my thread you will see.

i would replace the timing tensioner bracket with a billet one before i replace the rod bolts, i have never seen anyone break the rod bolts or have the the rods bolts backed out on them, but i have seen many broken tensioner brackets and crack main caps.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

omar , not quite true my friend ... the exhaust or downward stroke can be deadly to the assembly if coupled with alittle detonation which in turn does damage the main caps because they shift/deform for a moment without the increased clamping force of the arp stuff . i have personally seen this on a engine i recently took apart . main or rod bolts dont typically "snap" they are tty (tty=torque to yield) bolts and under increased pressures stretch beyond its intended design and theres where the damage begins

all im saying is its better for him to install them now as motor is apart then sell for a few bucks to get a tensioner which can be had down the road if neccessary .. im cammed and have had zero failure of tensioner , in fact im still on my original one and have never snapped one

the rule of thumb in any engine refresh or all out built is rid it of stock fastners and as far as main caps , when you step into 900+ zone then caps should be added

Shadowen

iTrader: (6)

The motor is basically assembled, It wouldn't take much to take the oil pan back off the bottom and switch the bolts out. it's tempting to do so since I have them. I just want to make sure it's necessary. I had the crank balanced with the new pistons if that makes any difference.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

if i was in your position , arp main and rod bolts

sc400ka

Quicksc4 also has a point as well. if you got them use them nothing is better then insurance for a bottom end. I'm in the process of finding a 1jz longblock to build up! ARP'ing the ****out of that motor! Lol

SOLID300

iTrader: (7)

Change them. It may not be critical for your goals but people always get the urge to to make more. One less thing u have to worry about down the line.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

He will not make 1k whp ,so he is fine ! His main cap will break first before the rod bolts so if doesn't have billet main then i don't see why he will need arp bolts.

I will never build an engine without doing billet main , if you want 800whp then leave the stock block alone and do mess with it!

I have a bone stock ge engine in my car, and it will make 800+whp once i am done with it in stock form stock internal.

If people made 800whp on bone stock engine why would you need arp bolts to make 650whp? i know he might want more power later down the road but even if that's the case stock block , stock parts supported 800whp .

If you want security then you must replace the caps also!

Do it or don't do it , there is no half way or half a$$ !

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

building jz engine and not replacing stock main , imo is a waste of money because they will break sooner or later no matter what type of pistons, rods, and rod bolts you use. it's will cost you an extra $1200-1500 to have them in your block and you golden!
So my question is why spend $7k -12k on "built" engine and not installing billet main?

Op this is not directed towards you ! I am just talking in general and it happens all the time.