SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Okay, so he issues didn't dissapear all together as I originally thought. Car was running better but not 100 percent after the reseting of the timing. There was still an occasional idle issue with the idle slightly surging or making a wom wom sound instead of a sooth idle...Sometimes applying my foot to the gas remedys the problem and it returns to a smooth idle but other times the wom wom stays until I a driving again. Yesterday I went out to go to work in the morning and the car just cranked and cranked....no start. I finally got it going by applying gas and nursing it to start...Sounds very poppy and bogged down and is hard to get the car to go to a steady point and to stay going...If I let off the gas the idle drops to 0-200 and jumps and wants to stall and sometimes does....However, as soon as it warms up it is able to stay running....Idles perfectly at 700-800 80% of the time after warm up and does the wom wom the other 20% of the time still....But when it idles good it sounds perfect... Check engine light came on and I read the codes and the following code came up...22 for Coolant temp sensor fault... I went to Oreilly today and picked up a new coolant sensor and installed it.... Upon removing the connector off of the old one I pulled the wires out from the plastic connector... I soldered some old wire to the connectors and hooked it all back up.... Started the car and the check engine light came back on immediately and the car pulled its not wanting to start still..... SO the code is still on.... I tested the old sensor and it is within the 2-3K ohm range at 2130 so the sensor wasn't even faulty anyways.... So according to the manual its a open or short in the harness between the connector and the ecu... To test for this the manual calls for a sst (special service tool) check connector A to be hooked up to the ecu...Which I do not have nor can I find it anywhere online...Anyway to check this without the special check connector? Could this have been the issue all along? Would a faulty temp sensor cause the not wanting to start when cold and the occasional wom woms and normal idle the rest of the time when warm? But since I know its not the sensor itself it has to be a short somewhere or the computer itself is going out???? Anyone with some advice or input? Girlfriend is so tired of me spending all my free time trying to fix this and wants me to sell the car.....Gotta get this figured out before I end up having to...Please anyone???

spitfire7

Did you open up the ecu to check for any thing burnt. They say that it might b burnt caps. I don't know what they are, but i opened up mine and say nothing burnt at all. What u did, i was going to do this weekend, but never got around too. Next month im going to take it to Drift Motion, and let them fix it. I'll post te results.

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Well I sure hope I figure this all out before another month rolls around....but either way Iook forward to hearing what ends up being the solution to your problem.... Have not pulled the ecu out yet... But I guess I could check there next... Is there any ways to test the capacitors? With a multimeter ? In case one is burned but it isn't visibly burnt? I sure hope it's not a ecu problem... Car is doing the same thing every time now.....

When cold it doesn't want to start..... It just cranks and cranks and cranks...... If I pump the gas pedal a few times and hold it while I crank it starts for a second or two but when I apply more gas to Rey and raise the Rpms to keep it going it muffles and Boggs down and dies... After about 5 Or so of the start for a few seconds and dying thing it will start and let me apply gas to raise the rpm to about 1500 and I can manually warm up my car.... I f I let off the gas at all store it is warmthe idle drops to about 100-200 and does the wom won thing and is jerky....once it warms up it idles at about 300 most of the time when at a stop light or in nuetral and does the wom wom thing still.... And ocasionally it will idle smooth and sound great and be at 700-800 but usually it drops down to the 200-300 range and does the wom wom ... Check engine light is still on and the only code it shows is 22 ( engine coolant temp sensor fault) .......


I know the sensor itself is good.... What the heck should I try next?????

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

This is seriously taking about 8-10 hours of everyday.. Researching and reading
Through the same threads and trying different words in my searches and also under my hood trying to self diagnose it and solve this issue..I think I have read pretty much every thread and post even remotely related to the issue....some a few times.... Someone has to have some input or a solution..... Where are the lexus service mechanics??? What would you check if hou were having this issue? Anybody ever had this issue before..... Or anyone with an idea on how to fix this and get my car running good again? I know there is a solution.... There has to be.... Too manyore days of 10 hours on my car and it's gonna have to go into the shop which i really cant afford... or be sold....which will be the most likely if I can't figure it out....... My kid and girl miss me.... And my girl has wanted me to sell the car ever since We had my daughter, i keep fighting to keep the car ,but the not running right isn't helping my fight any...nor is spending every spare minute working on it either. I'm even dreaming about vacuum lines and working on my car..I am totally consumed by this.... Someone put me out of my misery please...lol

beenlookin

Have you tried your 02 sensors? Mine are new but your problem could be a result of them.... not entirely sure and i know if you're like me, you're tired of spending money on parts. Check my thread.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post7502593

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Just checked it .... Read and browsed through it a few times over the past little while...I will look into the Mac and ecu.... Although the ecu testing procedures in the manual... Or testing the lines to the ecu call to a special harness as I mentioned in my previous post... I am definitely tired of dumping time and money into this... I even went and bought a multimeter the other day so I could start testing sensors and what not.... The amount I time and money this has ended up taking me to do the head gasket and then now after troubleshooting this issue that has shown up since it all went back together I should have jut paid my one buddy the 450 he wanted to doing... And I could have made him figure this all out because it all ran just fine before I took it all apart... This is so frustrating!!!!

beenlookin

We're in the same boat. I paid my friend but both he and another mechanic can't figure out what happened. My car ran perfect before we took the head off...

I wonder if you have a crossed vacuum line somewhere? Did you look into the VSV and the EGR area?

I'm going to start looking at all my sensors and connections when I get home from work... specficially the coolant temp sensor (on the head). I feel your frustration, wish i just dumped it at this point and bought a new car. Oh well.

GL

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Well I as able to get the check engine light to go out.....and the cold start issue seems to be remedied, seems I crosse the temp sensor wires when I re soldered them to the connector... Swappe them and she fired right up cold... And idled at 1100 or so and then once she warmed up the wom woms came back.... So I still have the old issue but I fixe the temp sensor circuit fault... Checked the maf sensor and the ohm reading was way off of factory specs... The car also doesn't change idle or run any different when I unplug the maf sensor... However the car won't start without it plugged in but it will start right up if it plugged in.... Looks like this might be my issue.... I remember before when I would unplug the sensor my car would immediately bog down.... As it doesn't change whatsoever now.... Wish I had someone with an extra one I could swap in just to see If the problem goes away.... But maf replacement looks like my next task at hand...

beenlookin

Too bad, i recently sold mine to some deadbeat on ebay who claimed it didnt work. I refunded him but it was perfect. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

YOkay so I drove the car home after work and she started right up cold.... Somewhat confirming that the cold start issue is gone.... The. Heck engine light has not returned yet either. When I got home the car was doing the wom wom thing.... I popped the hood and disconnected the maf and the idle evened out in about 3 -5 seconds... Plug it back in and the car dies down and starts to wom wom again... Disconnect it and it remedies itself in a few seconds... I took the sensor out and blew some compressed air through it and reinstalled only to get the same results... Reading on the sensor is 171.00 k ohms which is way off the charts for any temp...so my guess is that earlier when I unplugged the Maf sensor and nothing happened the car must have been running on computer memory being cold.... When I got home the car was warm and that is when I was able to really confirm that this is an issue.... I ordered one off eBay for 29.99 free shipping. Supposedly off of a wrecked 93 sc300.

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Okay, so I received the new maf sensor today. I hooked it up and started the car and she did the same exact thing. Tested the maf and the new one and old one have the same readings. So either they are both bad or the maf is not my problem.

It is doing the exact same thing now every start. As follows:

Starts right up when cold and idles at 1400-1500 rpm very smooth, no hesitation or misses noticable...When the temp gauge goes just above the c mark the roms drop to about 900 and still are smooth and the car runs great. Then when the temp climbs a bit more to the first white line above the c the idle drops to 300-400 and starts to sound like womp womp womp womp womp about 4 womps a second...it is very noticable from inside the cabin or outside...No check engine light whatsoever... Timing is dead on at 10 degrees btdc. What the heck could be causing this??? I am so past being angry and frustrated I just want to figure this out...

SupraDremr

iTrader: (5)

Anyone still with me here? What else should I check? What else could it be? What would any of you do next? Should I just take it to a Lexus dealer for diagnosis?

beenlookin

I know our problems differ but at least I can give you a free bump.. unfortunately it doesn't seem there are many technical people on this forum.

I spent 6 hours on mine yesterday... we hooked up an oscilloscope and checked the firing range of each cylinder. Tested all the ohm's in the wire, tested the voltage in the TPS, ignitor, distributor, and a ton of other things.

When night time hit, we sprayed a solution of salt and water onto the coil/distributor and the plug wires. We noticed substantial arching all over the place. Personally, I've replaced the plugs 2x and the cap and rotor 2x. Now i'm getting "it has to be the wires" which, I will end up replacing again since, just like you, i feel I have to and cant give up now. The idea is that the spark is jumping randomly all over the place causing the misfire.

Other than that, we didn't have the banjo adapter to check the fuel pressure, albeit, when hearing the injectors it seemed that each is opening and closing properly. Unplugging one of the injector connectors seemed to stop the misfire (womp sound you state) at idle for about ten seconds but starts right back up after that.

I'm puzzled but i will try the plug wires... after all, what choice do i have? Good luck. too bad you're not close by, i'd give you hand. I'll let you know how it goes.

beenlookin

Any luck? Did you find your solution?

I changed the wires as advised by 3 mechanics, nothing. Still a strong misfire in mine. I cannot figure it out.

carsmypnis

iTrader: (1)

pull the plugs and read them, if the car always is running funny you should see it in the plugs. also look at your iac valve, and your egr to make sure they are both working properly im guessing it could be a lazy injector you could try pulling the wires one at a time to see what cylinder is missing. did you check your compression after the headgasket install