engine swap vvti gte vs non vvti gte?
07-11-12, 09:39 AM
#1
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engine swap vvti gte vs non vvti gte?
Hey CL, i decided to make a thread about the following swap im planing on doing.
I got a 97 sc300 5 spd and want to go turbo. At first i was thinking of going na-t but decided to go with the gte. Now the question i wanted to know is what is better vvti vs non vvti. Now, i know there is a few threads about this here but i couldnt really get the answer i wanted.
What are the advantages of going with the vvti vs the non vvti. I got a friend here who strongly suggest to get the vvti but ive always though that non was cleaner and better.
Have any of you guys who done a swap to the vvti or non vvti had any issues with these two engines.
Any comments would be appreciated.
I got a 97 sc300 5 spd and want to go turbo. At first i was thinking of going na-t but decided to go with the gte. Now the question i wanted to know is what is better vvti vs non vvti. Now, i know there is a few threads about this here but i couldnt really get the answer i wanted.
What are the advantages of going with the vvti vs the non vvti. I got a friend here who strongly suggest to get the vvti but ive always though that non was cleaner and better.
Have any of you guys who done a swap to the vvti or non vvti had any issues with these two engines.
Any comments would be appreciated.
07-11-12, 10:19 AM
#3
Sweet! A guy with no experience giving advice from what he has heard! Thanks for being helpful!
If you stay stock ecu and have mild power goals it will be as easy to tune as the alternative.
I have the same setup in vvti and non vvti. 1j/he341 holset/ 440cc injectors. Vvti rips harder man, smoother, pulls like a freight train even in partial throttle. Also my vvti ge iS wagon was spunkier than my gf's ge 5spd 92 sc
BUT: non vvti is hands down cheaper by a long shot. If you're worried about cost avoid vvti. If not, go big!
Btw, this is for jzx100/soarer 1j. I don't fancy the 2j and jzx110/jzs171 drive by wire crap
If you stay stock ecu and have mild power goals it will be as easy to tune as the alternative.
I have the same setup in vvti and non vvti. 1j/he341 holset/ 440cc injectors. Vvti rips harder man, smoother, pulls like a freight train even in partial throttle. Also my vvti ge iS wagon was spunkier than my gf's ge 5spd 92 sc
BUT: non vvti is hands down cheaper by a long shot. If you're worried about cost avoid vvti. If not, go big!
Btw, this is for jzx100/soarer 1j. I don't fancy the 2j and jzx110/jzs171 drive by wire crap
07-11-12, 10:53 AM
#4
Sweet! A guy with no experience giving advice from what he has heard! Thanks for being helpful!
If you stay stock ecu and have mild power goals it will be as easy to tune as the alternative.
I have the same setup in vvti and non vvti. 1j/he341 holset/ 440cc injectors. Vvti rips harder man, smoother, pulls like a freight train even in partial throttle. Also my vvti ge iS wagon was spunkier than my gf's ge 5spd 92 sc
BUT: non vvti is hands down cheaper by a long shot. If you're worried about cost avoid vvti. If not, go big!
Btw, this is for jzx100/soarer 1j. I don't fancy the 2j and jzx110/jzs171 drive by wire crap
If you stay stock ecu and have mild power goals it will be as easy to tune as the alternative.
I have the same setup in vvti and non vvti. 1j/he341 holset/ 440cc injectors. Vvti rips harder man, smoother, pulls like a freight train even in partial throttle. Also my vvti ge iS wagon was spunkier than my gf's ge 5spd 92 sc
BUT: non vvti is hands down cheaper by a long shot. If you're worried about cost avoid vvti. If not, go big!
Btw, this is for jzx100/soarer 1j. I don't fancy the 2j and jzx110/jzs171 drive by wire crap
Surely everyone would be doing it since to get a vvti or nonvvti engine package is the same price.
07-11-12, 11:47 AM
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I vote non VVTi
Easier to find camshaft if you decide to go all out.
Alot of EMS are PNP with this harness no patch harness or rewiring is needed.
Non VVTi only uses map.
Non VVTi maybe easier for you to work on if you are not familiar with these engine.
At the end of the day it's all preferences , what do you like? it's all about you OP!
VVTi are more than likely cleaner because they are newer cars! Fun to drive i can tell you!
I like them both.
Easier to find camshaft if you decide to go all out.
Alot of EMS are PNP with this harness no patch harness or rewiring is needed.
Non VVTi only uses map.
Non VVTi maybe easier for you to work on if you are not familiar with these engine.
At the end of the day it's all preferences , what do you like? it's all about you OP!
VVTi are more than likely cleaner because they are newer cars! Fun to drive i can tell you!
I like them both.
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07-11-12, 06:30 PM
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Thank you all for the good information. Im honestly quite new to these engines, all i know about these cars is, theyre confortable and fast which is alll i care about. Easy simple and ChEap is what im looking for. If anyone else has any more comments or information please reply to this post.
07-11-12, 07:58 PM
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Thank you all for the good information. Im honestly quite new to these engines, all i know about these cars is, theyre confortable and fast which is alll i care about. Easy simple and ChEap is what im looking for. If anyone else has any more comments or information please reply to this post.
Cheap,easy and simple are not really good words in a sentence with Turbo.
With that being said non vvti all the way everything is easier to handle and upgrading has already been done to death so vast knowledge is readily available as well as parts from numerous suppliers! IMO.
07-11-12, 09:56 PM
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I dont mean cheap like that i mean if something goes wrong with the engine its not going to cost me more than what the actual engine is worth to get it fix.
I know that having a good set up will run me a good amount of $$$ and thats not the problem but thanks for ur opinion man!
I know that having a good set up will run me a good amount of $$$ and thats not the problem but thanks for ur opinion man!
07-11-12, 10:07 PM
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I dont mean cheap like that i mean if something goes wrong with the engine its not going to cost me more than what the actual engine is worth to get it fix.
I know that having a good set up will run me a good amount of $$$ and thats not the problem but thanks for ur opinion man!
I know that having a good set up will run me a good amount of $$$ and thats not the problem but thanks for ur opinion man!
You asked for suggestions but don't like the answer, good luck with this build senor
07-12-12, 08:06 AM
#13
For 97-sc300
If you stay stock ecu and have mild power goals it will be as easy to tune as the alternative.
[this is a fact: I have used both the safc2 and emu on my 1j vvti and non vvti and it responds the same, very simple. The factory ecu takes care of the vvti, you take care of fuel/timing. When you go to a standalone that does not have out of the box vvti support you enter a crappy world of having to setup the range of the cam with pwm crap which is over my head and like you have been told will surely be a hassle]
I have the same setup in vvti and non vvti. 1j/he341 holset/ 440cc injectors. Vvti rips harder man, smoother, pulls like a freight train even in partial throttle. Also my vvti ge iS wagon was spunkier than my gf's ge 5spd 92 sc
[this is a fact: I literally have identical setups, and were in the same exact chassis with the only difference being that one is vvti. If my computer hadn't crapped I could provide logs from my emanage. The vvti spools the same turbo a few hundred rpms quicker out of the box. Even Partial throttle it just plain pulls harder. also, I've run my gf a million times, her driving the auto IS (to eliminate woman driver error) which had 3.90 gears vs. Me in her factory stock 92 5spd sc with 4.08 gears. Shed pull me every time. With the ac on in both cars it was even worse
OPINION: because I can't prove this. But I wanna say that partial/mid throttle is where vvti really shines.
BUT: non vvti is hands down cheaper by a long shot. If you're worried about cost avoid vvti. If not, go big!
[fact: maybe I should clarify why I say cheaper. Yes, initial purchase price between the two are about the same, but when building these things, non vvti is cheaper by miles due to the availability of parts both new and used. Cost me $400 more to piece together the same exact turbo kit because of the manifold availability. Non vvti has been around so much longer]
Btw, this is for jzx100/soarer 1j. I don't fancy the 2j and jzx110/jzs171 drive by wire crap
[opinion] this is personal preference. I stated it like this because unlike you, I didn't wanna state stuff that I don't have firsthand experience with. But people I've talked to have confirmed to me what I have thought about the dbw ecus being like obd2 ecus, smart and a headache. While the non vvti and jzx100/soarer ecus are dumb and easy to manipulate]
If you stay stock ecu and have mild power goals it will be as easy to tune as the alternative.
[this is a fact: I have used both the safc2 and emu on my 1j vvti and non vvti and it responds the same, very simple. The factory ecu takes care of the vvti, you take care of fuel/timing. When you go to a standalone that does not have out of the box vvti support you enter a crappy world of having to setup the range of the cam with pwm crap which is over my head and like you have been told will surely be a hassle]
I have the same setup in vvti and non vvti. 1j/he341 holset/ 440cc injectors. Vvti rips harder man, smoother, pulls like a freight train even in partial throttle. Also my vvti ge iS wagon was spunkier than my gf's ge 5spd 92 sc
[this is a fact: I literally have identical setups, and were in the same exact chassis with the only difference being that one is vvti. If my computer hadn't crapped I could provide logs from my emanage. The vvti spools the same turbo a few hundred rpms quicker out of the box. Even Partial throttle it just plain pulls harder. also, I've run my gf a million times, her driving the auto IS (to eliminate woman driver error) which had 3.90 gears vs. Me in her factory stock 92 5spd sc with 4.08 gears. Shed pull me every time. With the ac on in both cars it was even worse
OPINION: because I can't prove this. But I wanna say that partial/mid throttle is where vvti really shines.
BUT: non vvti is hands down cheaper by a long shot. If you're worried about cost avoid vvti. If not, go big!
[fact: maybe I should clarify why I say cheaper. Yes, initial purchase price between the two are about the same, but when building these things, non vvti is cheaper by miles due to the availability of parts both new and used. Cost me $400 more to piece together the same exact turbo kit because of the manifold availability. Non vvti has been around so much longer]
Btw, this is for jzx100/soarer 1j. I don't fancy the 2j and jzx110/jzs171 drive by wire crap
07-12-12, 08:13 AM
#14
Sorry for all the clutter it's difficult to do this from my phone.
The lack of solid information, aftermarket support, and people like the guy I addressed in the post above who spread senseless myths is why more people haven't done these. They've now been around long enough that this is becoming less of a problem
The lack of solid information, aftermarket support, and people like the guy I addressed in the post above who spread senseless myths is why more people haven't done these. They've now been around long enough that this is becoming less of a problem
07-12-12, 08:51 AM
#15
You are already buying a 2JZ-GTE VVT-i front clip with rear diff for 2400, that's a ****ing amazing deal and you want to trade it for a older engine that's weaker too. I mean I'll do it, it makes no difference to me but it's a really stupid idea IMO and you'll regret it after you get the engine running inside your car.
Plus you should be listening to me because I'm doing your swap.
Plus you should be listening to me because I'm doing your swap.
Last edited by account2x; 07-12-12 at 08:56 AM.