gs300 intercooler piping on sc300
06-15-12, 01:07 PM
#1
gs300 intercooler piping on sc300
hey guys, just like the title states im wondering what modification would need to be done to gs300 intercooler piping to fit on my na-t 93.
Everyone around here wants an arm and a leg to build some IC piping which is ridiculous, i could just fit up my own out of an ebay universal kit but hoping i can pick up some pre done for a reasonable cost.
so anyone know how much different it will be? or if it just wont work in general
Everyone around here wants an arm and a leg to build some IC piping which is ridiculous, i could just fit up my own out of an ebay universal kit but hoping i can pick up some pre done for a reasonable cost.
so anyone know how much different it will be? or if it just wont work in general
06-17-12, 07:34 PM
#2
Driver School Candidate
Look for the one mkvi supra or soarer...I got this and had to add a small piece on the pass side for it to wrk...came with only 3" couplers no 2.5" ....fortunately for I had extra pipping.... But ic fits great,, I must say. I have mine straight up...hope this helps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130560714114...#ht_3302wt_821
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130560714114...#ht_3302wt_821
02-25-13, 04:51 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Reconditioning Air To Air Intercooler
The air to air intercooler on my turbo '94 SC300 was installed about 15 years ago. Due to accumulating damage to the fins and clogging with insect fragments I estimate that the efficiency may have been reduced by as much as 10% (pic below). I decided to recondition it to near new condition. I'll detail the steps I used to do so in this post.
After the necessary removal of the intercooler I suggest flushing it with a strong stream of water from a hose nozzle, directing the blast rear to front (otherwise you may just be pushing smutz further into the fins). Check the front and manually remove any reachable blockages with the tip of an X-Acto knife.
You will need the following tools: Radiator fin straightening tool (also called a radiator comb). Most auto parts stores should have this inexpensive item (pic below). A 1/8" slot blade screwdriver, a pair of small smooth jaw jewelers pliers, a medium (orange) Nyalox abrasive impregnated nylon bristle rotary brush (I bought mine at Ace Hardware) and an electric drill.
After initial cleaning start examining the fins, row by row. If the spacing is sufficient to allow the radiator comb teeth to enter between fins leave them alone for now (note the comb has multiple sets of teeth with different pitches to fit different fin spacing, my intercooler had 12 fpi). If the fins are shoved sideways against a neighbor use the 1/8" screwdriver to insert and bend them apart sufficiently to allow the comb to be inserted. If the edge of the fins are "smeared" such that the edge is actually bent over use the small pliers to remove the bend. Once the worst damage has been corrected such that the tool comb teeth can be inserted in the fins start at one end of each row and insert the comb teeth fully. With the comb full engaged in the fins vigorously move the tool up and down in the fins. Press firmly against the top and bottom of each bunch of fins at the fold radii. This is to "square off" the bends at the ends (as much as possible) where they are folded and helps to remove slack in the straight part of the fins and straighten them. In some cases you may only be able to advance the tool across the row one fin at a time if they are really messed up. Even where the fins appear relatively ok I still suggest using the tool, you'll be surprised how much straighter and even they are after using the tool. Repeat this process on both the front and rear of the intercooler across all fins.
Once the fins are straight I suggest another blasting with a hose nozzle (still rear to front) to remove any debris that was trapped by bent fins.
Once the fins are straight and clean proceed to cleaning the aluminum surfaces with the Nyalox brush mounted in a drill motor. Be sure to hold the brush so the the direction of bristle motion is parallel to the straight part of the fins when cleaning the edges of the air passages between rows of fins to avoid snagging the fins and undoing the work you just did. I initially tried using a fine grade (blue) Nyalox brush but stains on the surface (probably from the solder flux used to attach the fins) was too deep. The medium grade (blue) Nyalox gives an attractive brushed finish on the aluminum surfaces. Although I'm not going to remove my radiator I may try to use the comb to straighten any damaged areas I can reach (access is better with the intercooler removed) since it worked so well.
Pictures below:
1. Tools used for reconditioning.
2. Closeup of a section of the front of the intercooler before reconditioning.
3. Closeup of the same section of the front after reconditioning.
4. Overview of the entire unit after completion.
After the necessary removal of the intercooler I suggest flushing it with a strong stream of water from a hose nozzle, directing the blast rear to front (otherwise you may just be pushing smutz further into the fins). Check the front and manually remove any reachable blockages with the tip of an X-Acto knife.
You will need the following tools: Radiator fin straightening tool (also called a radiator comb). Most auto parts stores should have this inexpensive item (pic below). A 1/8" slot blade screwdriver, a pair of small smooth jaw jewelers pliers, a medium (orange) Nyalox abrasive impregnated nylon bristle rotary brush (I bought mine at Ace Hardware) and an electric drill.
After initial cleaning start examining the fins, row by row. If the spacing is sufficient to allow the radiator comb teeth to enter between fins leave them alone for now (note the comb has multiple sets of teeth with different pitches to fit different fin spacing, my intercooler had 12 fpi). If the fins are shoved sideways against a neighbor use the 1/8" screwdriver to insert and bend them apart sufficiently to allow the comb to be inserted. If the edge of the fins are "smeared" such that the edge is actually bent over use the small pliers to remove the bend. Once the worst damage has been corrected such that the tool comb teeth can be inserted in the fins start at one end of each row and insert the comb teeth fully. With the comb full engaged in the fins vigorously move the tool up and down in the fins. Press firmly against the top and bottom of each bunch of fins at the fold radii. This is to "square off" the bends at the ends (as much as possible) where they are folded and helps to remove slack in the straight part of the fins and straighten them. In some cases you may only be able to advance the tool across the row one fin at a time if they are really messed up. Even where the fins appear relatively ok I still suggest using the tool, you'll be surprised how much straighter and even they are after using the tool. Repeat this process on both the front and rear of the intercooler across all fins.
Once the fins are straight I suggest another blasting with a hose nozzle (still rear to front) to remove any debris that was trapped by bent fins.
Once the fins are straight and clean proceed to cleaning the aluminum surfaces with the Nyalox brush mounted in a drill motor. Be sure to hold the brush so the the direction of bristle motion is parallel to the straight part of the fins when cleaning the edges of the air passages between rows of fins to avoid snagging the fins and undoing the work you just did. I initially tried using a fine grade (blue) Nyalox brush but stains on the surface (probably from the solder flux used to attach the fins) was too deep. The medium grade (blue) Nyalox gives an attractive brushed finish on the aluminum surfaces. Although I'm not going to remove my radiator I may try to use the comb to straighten any damaged areas I can reach (access is better with the intercooler removed) since it worked so well.
Pictures below:
1. Tools used for reconditioning.
2. Closeup of a section of the front of the intercooler before reconditioning.
3. Closeup of the same section of the front after reconditioning.
4. Overview of the entire unit after completion.
Last edited by davmar; 02-25-13 at 05:01 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ClubSupra
Performance & Maintenance
2
11-10-09 02:57 AM
