N00bie909

iTrader: (5)

okay guys well here is the situation on what i am stuck in i want to swap my engine for a 1jzgte vvti all i am find are front sump going for 1200-1400 to the door. I was searching craigslist and found a 2jz-ge vvti for very cheap out of a 98 gs i do want to do a complete rebuild so i can turbo it and swap it in my sc300 5 speed. I just want to know which one will be cheaper the only thing that is holding me back from thw 2jz vvti is no ecu or harness front sump and also it has the ugly intake minfold. I can save up for a ffim for it and dont have to worry about the distributor im looking to be around 350-500 hp stock w58 i know ill be switching to a r154. any advice would help thanks guys or any links on others builds would help.

Trevstuh

What year is your sc?

N00bie909

iTrader: (5)

1992 sc 300 5 speed

TweakTech

iTrader: (2)

You can reuse your rear sump pan on the 1JZ from your 2JGE. That's what a lot of the 2J Aristo guys do.

Also, for that low of a power goal, why don't you just go NA-T??

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

All i am going to tell is Dont mess with the 2jzge VVTi out of the 98+ cars for turbo application , they are reliable.

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (5)

Wait for a Soarer spec 1JZ for that price. It seems like it's just easier to do the swap without switching parts over plus you get to avoid the (yet unsolved?) problems of doing a non-soarer origin 1JZ. (ABS brakes, A/C no work, etc)

They're just more drop in friendly

N00bie909

iTrader: (5)

guys thanks for the response and Tweaktech i would go na-t but i want to be able to drive my car still this will be a long term project. And as far as oil pans i was told it wouldnt work by a "professional shop" i did some read and i also saw how the guys used there oil pans they just had to do something with taping a hole im not sure for the turbo.



Quick sc4 the reason i wanted to mess with this vvti engine is because i am getting it for $100 which i dont thinks its bad at all non vvti motors are going for no less then 500 in cali. The other reason too was i heard vvti is just well newer for one and also how it has a quickier spool faster respone than a non vvti. Yes it would be harder to tune but thats why i would just go full stand alone off the bat. the only thing that is really holding me back is the intake manifold the reason i am doing the swap is for more power and just getting rid of the intake manifold thats why i would want to go with a ffim, but with all the little stuff adding up i can imagine it will just cost as much or more than a swap.


intimazy if only i could find a soarer 1jz for that price its just hard for me to find a 1jz soarer period locally in socal

TweakTech

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you will need to drill and tap the pan if you reuse it from your 2JZGE, but it's not hard at all. The castings are already there, you just need to drill them out.

ANY 1JZ will work in an SC chassis and you won't loose ABS, or AC... I don't know why people get all bent out of shape about that. If the harness conversion is done correctly, you will retain all your factory options. Traction control would be the only thing lost, but it's lost with all swaps, not just a non-Soarer

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I would have to agree with tweak on this one. pan swaps are common. your shop is wrong for telling you it can't be done.

I would turbo the motor in your car long before i swapped a 2jzge vvti motor in to turbo that in the exact same fashion. all standalones dont come with a vvti tune right out of the box, it can take a bit of setup/tuning time if they don't. Most importantly, the 2jzge vvti bottom end is not so boost friendly as it's non vvti predecessor.

Just take all that money you would spend on a new old motor, get a better turbo kit and a FFIM. done

account2x

iTrader: (5)

Buy the 1JZ VVT-i auto and swap it in with your current W58. This combination will save you money in the short term and you'll be able to decide if the Turbo SC game is something you enjoy. The only con is if you ever wanted to get not trashy mk3 r154 it will be harder to source later on without rebuying an engine.