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Old 01-23-14, 11:37 AM   #46
99SC42
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I still don't believe the clutch switch is the main reason to crank walk...4 of my scs were all autos converted to manual so it doesn't have a clutch switch and you don't have to press the clutch to start it and they all crank walked..

My 96sc original manual car , bypassed the switch and still walked, my 92 I didn't bypass went with a different clutch and never had a crank walk why is that.?

All the 5 cars had the same brand and model clutch on them.

At this point I don't even wanna know, because I have the answer. Its the pos act clutches I was using.
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Old 01-23-14, 11:40 AM   #47
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Yikes, this is what I have.

You told me it was better than the SPEC one that I had ordered.

Dang Quick, I wish you were more pushy on what clutch NOT to get on my build thread... GEEEZZZ.....
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Old 01-23-14, 11:41 AM   #48
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You know I am only messing with you....
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1992 SC400, Sleeper..522RWHP - 93 octane, 1JZ, BW S366, Soarer R154, ACT Stage 4, 800cc, DM LW Flywheel, MINZ FPR, 3" Exhaust, HKS CF Slip on, HKS BOV, Tial 44 WG, BC 264 Cams, AEM gauges, AEM V2, MKIV Auto LSD!
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Old 01-23-14, 12:13 PM   #49
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Well after 4 engines I was time to sit down and figure out why this is happening.

Ive using act because it held the power and I didn't know any better. ..
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Old 01-24-14, 08:42 AM   #50
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yeah I guess bypassing the switch just makes me feel a little better about having an act clutch, but you are right probably won't prevent it I still worry every time I push that clutch in, its several times stiffer than stock.
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Old 01-26-14, 08:45 AM   #51
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Now after reading this thread, I think about the crank walk every time.

Dang these forums. LOL
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Old 01-26-14, 09:37 AM   #52
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See but at least i am sharing my experience with you guys, some people won't even say anything about it they will just let the others learn from their mistakes.

but sometimes i do just like the others did to me let me learn on my own , blowing, destroying, tearing shut up etc..

Some people don't listen no matter what/and how many times you tell them, let them learn the hard way, not my money I could care less..

This new member from Canada , has a build thread and while I was ready and looking at his parts I told him not to use that clutch because he will end up just like me and the others another act victim..
then he came back and asked me if I was serious? I then broke it down to him and I guess that's not what he wanted to hear and his reply was little bit rude....so I just deleted my posts from his thread, I will give him 4weeks if he daily drives that car that engine will go bye bye.!!

I know a guy on here and majority of you guys know him, he lost his engine from the same clutch after I had told not to use that clutch, but now he can't come on here and say it out loud . And he asked me what clutch I would recommend, I just ignored him ...let him do his own research.

I love it when people don't listen and tear their **** up and come back and cry.
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Old 01-26-14, 09:43 AM   #53
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Ali, try removing the crank pulley, if that bolt is seize in there you are done.

But the best way would be to pull the oil pan off.. you know how many setups i had not that i wanted to waste money like that or work on cars every day but i didn't have any other choices.

My car is more liable now making 700whp that it was 4-5years ago make 500-600whp.
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Old 01-28-14, 12:17 PM   #54
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yeah some people just don't want to take good advice, but as long as its out there somewhere I wish I had heard it before I got my stuff the first time around. Luckily I don't drive it a whole lot anymore but it still seems like its in good shape its been driving real smooth other than the clutch. I will try the crank pulley sometime, oil pan is likely not coming off for a while but I do plan on tackling the clutch if not swap out the trans this year before I have any issues with the act setup.

one time my foot slipped off the clutch I swear it stalled so hard with that pressure plate I almost got whiplash and I thought to myself "crank walk", it always starts right back up I dont want to keep pushing my luck.
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Old 01-28-14, 12:31 PM   #55
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Hahaha You will be alright man.

It doesn't make any sense for you to replace that clutch with another w58 clutch if you gonna go r154..Just start collecting your R154 parts and when the weather breaks I will come out there on weekend and help you knock out that swap !!

If you want we can just pull it all out and pull the lower pan off and take a look..or get a drain plug with a longer magnet on it , so it will pull the shavings out in case you have some in the pan.
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Old 01-30-14, 07:06 AM   #56
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It's all about the AZ/ Southbend blend!

That setup uses the stock pressure plate, but an aggressive disk, thereby being much nicer to your thrust bearings.

US built 7 bolt 4g63's (The ones that crankwalked the most) have had third party R&D the last few years, and basically there is a crank bolt dowel system that keeps all the mains true. A girdle isn't a bad idea either. Used with main studs, this strengthens the caps ability to stay laterally stable.
Click the image to open in full size.

The ACT Uses a 2600+ lbs Pressure plate to get the grip, that's why they are the culprit when moving cranks are a concern.

Stock engine, stock PP, or Multi plate clutch setup. Built and girdled, ACT, Spec, Unsprung drift pucks, etc.

Last edited by spoolxexo; 01-30-14 at 07:09 AM..
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Old 01-30-14, 08:22 AM   #57
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I think I ever have to remove the tranny again, I might really consider another brand clutch, even though I have a DM Evolution lightweight flywheel. Sounds like I also might need to pull the oil pan, but this requires pulling the motor. HUHHHHHHH....

I am wondering if this LW flyweel is helping me more than those who doesnt have this...
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Old 01-30-14, 08:32 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolxexo View Post
It's all about the AZ/ Southbend blend!

That setup uses the stock pressure plate, but an aggressive disk, thereby being much nicer to your thrust bearings.

US built 7 bolt 4g63's (The ones that crankwalked the most) have had third party R&D the last few years, and basically there is a crank bolt dowel system that keeps all the mains true. A girdle isn't a bad idea either. Used with main studs, this strengthens the caps ability to stay laterally stable.
Click the image to open in full size.

The ACT Uses a 2600+ lbs Pressure plate to get the grip, that's why they are the culprit when moving cranks are a concern.

Stock engine, stock PP, or Multi plate clutch setup. Built and girdled, ACT, Spec, Unsprung drift pucks, etc.
Actually their disc are not aggressive, they just different material on each side of the disc.

I've used all the disc that they have and they are smoove.

Ive competition and clutchmasters before those are also great clutches.

Stock pressure plate with a 6 puck disc work just fine for 500wh and under.

act , spec and rps discs are fine it's just the pressure plate i have an issue with.
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Old 01-30-14, 09:31 AM   #59
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In comparison to clamping force of a stock disk, it is meatier that's for sure.

ACT makes several PP clamping force rates, 2600's would walk dsm cranks, not sure what it is for the 2jz.

Plus in Japan, you don't hear of this since everyone is a baller and uses twin disks.
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Old 01-30-14, 11:39 AM   #60
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the 2100 is the "heavy duty" PP and the 2600 is the "extreme" PP. for some reason I thought the 2600 would be a good idea with a 6 puck clutch, but turns out I failed on both PP and clutch
I wish I had just done the heavy duty and the full face sprung disc I could have probably lived with that a lot longer but now its r154 time or even 350z 6 speed is sounding better these days.
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