350Z trans adapter?
07-21-15, 09:34 AM
#617
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Haven't been back in this thread in a while but I've been watching it time to time. I've ran into a problem with my 2jzgte/cd009 and southbend clutch. I keep breaking the rivets holding the strap onto the pressure plate, happened 3 times so far. I have a 8k rpm and it's happening from 1st-2nd or 2nd-3rd shift.
I don't think anyone else is winding theirs out that high but I see it posing a problem once I get a s375 on and shoot for high numbers. Obviously I should shift sooner but traction is an issue right now until I get something stickier (drift event may happen time to time). I'm thinking of switching to a twin disk but feel that it may happen again.
I don't think anyone else is winding theirs out that high but I see it posing a problem once I get a s375 on and shoot for high numbers. Obviously I should shift sooner but traction is an issue right now until I get something stickier (drift event may happen time to time). I'm thinking of switching to a twin disk but feel that it may happen again.
07-21-15, 11:02 AM
#618
i have not popped any with mine and ive run about 5000 miles on it so far.. but i have the collins kit with whatever pressureplate/clutch they provide. my problem is an annoying rattling sound from the clutch area until i press in the clutch, then it gets quiet. and also rattles up to about 2000 rpm whiele driving, by 2500 rpm it is nice and quiet and sounds normal. More throttle makes the rattle worse, can cruise in 6th at like 1500rpm and not hear much rattle at all... gah. hasnt changed the whole time i've had it in.
07-21-15, 08:04 PM
#619
I have my redline set to 7600 so you are reving slightly higher than me. But rarely do i actually rev it beyond 7k. i can hear things spinning in neutral with the pedal released, doesnt really bother me though. also when i take off i hear some drivetrain chatter at first, but again doesn't really bother me.
07-22-15, 01:49 PM
#620
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The clutch chatter doesn't bother me. Mine, I would believe, to be a little more louder since there isn't much insulation in a s13. I use foam pads under the center console to deaden the sound.
*Props to Ali SC3 for the work being put in for the shifter. I'm going to go that route with the 240 short shifter that he made.
*Props to Ali SC3 for the work being put in for the shifter. I'm going to go that route with the 240 short shifter that he made.
07-25-15, 09:48 PM
#621
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This is what I did:
It doesn't work as I wanted it to, it's mirrored image from the factory shifter.
I also make an adapter plate that uses factory 2jz everything.
Been working on it that past year. Currently designing the triple plate setups.
It doesn't work as I wanted it to, it's mirrored image from the factory shifter.
I also make an adapter plate that uses factory 2jz everything.
Been working on it that past year. Currently designing the triple plate setups.
Last edited by AlbertTRD; 07-25-15 at 09:52 PM.
07-27-15, 03:05 AM
#623
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This is what I did:
Cd009 shifter relocation test. - YouTube
It doesn't work as I wanted it to, it's mirrored image from the factory shifter.
I also make an adapter plate that uses factory 2jz everything.
Been working on it that past year. Currently designing the triple plate setups.
Cd009 shifter relocation test. - YouTube
It doesn't work as I wanted it to, it's mirrored image from the factory shifter.
I also make an adapter plate that uses factory 2jz everything.
Been working on it that past year. Currently designing the triple plate setups.
07-27-15, 08:16 AM
#624
Dude that shifter is bad ***, I especially like the trans adapter, looks like you're using the automatic bellhousing, probably free up a lot of room, I know the is300 guys would go nuts if there was a smaller bellhousing option.
07-27-15, 12:19 PM
#626
I think the problem with the shifter that way is that when you turn the stock shifter left, the shifter in front will want to turn right. the back and forth motion works, but not side to side.
I know this because with the shifter rod going to the stock shifter as shown, the front shifter has to be attached on top of that rod as shown in that video, which makes it turn the wrong way.
Nissan designs these transmissions to have the shifter attach under the shifter rod in a non remote setup, like the xterra arm goes below the shift rod so the shifter turns the right way on the same trans.
when I started out I realized that remote shift setups and normal shifter setups alot of times will be designed to turn opposite directions when they use both styles on the same trans.
things get kind of funny when you look at a remote shift w58, and realize one you detach the remote shifter part, it actually looks like the old w58 still under that.
the way to make it work I already posted to do at your own risk, cause well its risky. The shift arm for the front shifter has to be below the shifter rod, not on top of it. so to get the correct motion you have to cut off the shifter rod that normally sticks out the back of the transmission and then plug the hole so it doesn't leak. might have to make another support for ths shift rod in the front area due to it not being held in place by the rear housing anymore, but its doable.
Do note that that would only be helpfull in a mk3, in a mk4 or sc300 that would be further up than a w58 with the swan neck comes, so you would still have to run a very swan necked shifter, this is why I didn't do it that way was trying to solve the swan neck problem not have it from the front instead of the rear. on our cars you need it right above that "hump" where the shifter rod exits the rear housing, or right behind the black cover.
The bellhousing adapter looks like a great idea though for all the chassis, let us know when you finish those I would be interested in going that route and reusing alot of my w58 parts, I am sure others wouldn't mind doing the same to avoid bellhousing clearance issues.
I know this because with the shifter rod going to the stock shifter as shown, the front shifter has to be attached on top of that rod as shown in that video, which makes it turn the wrong way.
Nissan designs these transmissions to have the shifter attach under the shifter rod in a non remote setup, like the xterra arm goes below the shift rod so the shifter turns the right way on the same trans.
when I started out I realized that remote shift setups and normal shifter setups alot of times will be designed to turn opposite directions when they use both styles on the same trans.
things get kind of funny when you look at a remote shift w58, and realize one you detach the remote shifter part, it actually looks like the old w58 still under that.
the way to make it work I already posted to do at your own risk, cause well its risky. The shift arm for the front shifter has to be below the shifter rod, not on top of it. so to get the correct motion you have to cut off the shifter rod that normally sticks out the back of the transmission and then plug the hole so it doesn't leak. might have to make another support for ths shift rod in the front area due to it not being held in place by the rear housing anymore, but its doable.
Do note that that would only be helpfull in a mk3, in a mk4 or sc300 that would be further up than a w58 with the swan neck comes, so you would still have to run a very swan necked shifter, this is why I didn't do it that way was trying to solve the swan neck problem not have it from the front instead of the rear. on our cars you need it right above that "hump" where the shifter rod exits the rear housing, or right behind the black cover.
The bellhousing adapter looks like a great idea though for all the chassis, let us know when you finish those I would be interested in going that route and reusing alot of my w58 parts, I am sure others wouldn't mind doing the same to avoid bellhousing clearance issues.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-27-15 at 12:25 PM.
08-03-15, 12:26 PM
#629
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I think the problem with the shifter that way is that when you turn the stock shifter left, the shifter in front will want to turn right. the back and forth motion works, but not side to side.
I know this because with the shifter rod going to the stock shifter as shown, the front shifter has to be attached on top of that rod as shown in that video, which makes it turn the wrong way.
Nissan designs these transmissions to have the shifter attach under the shifter rod in a non remote setup, like the xterra arm goes below the shift rod so the shifter turns the right way on the same trans.
when I started out I realized that remote shift setups and normal shifter setups alot of times will be designed to turn opposite directions when they use both styles on the same trans.
things get kind of funny when you look at a remote shift w58, and realize one you detach the remote shifter part, it actually looks like the old w58 still under that.
the way to make it work I already posted to do at your own risk, cause well its risky. The shift arm for the front shifter has to be below the shifter rod, not on top of it. so to get the correct motion you have to cut off the shifter rod that normally sticks out the back of the transmission and then plug the hole so it doesn't leak. might have to make another support for ths shift rod in the front area due to it not being held in place by the rear housing anymore, but its doable.
Do note that that would only be helpfull in a mk3, in a mk4 or sc300 that would be further up than a w58 with the swan neck comes, so you would still have to run a very swan necked shifter, this is why I didn't do it that way was trying to solve the swan neck problem not have it from the front instead of the rear. on our cars you need it right above that "hump" where the shifter rod exits the rear housing, or right behind the black cover.
The bellhousing adapter looks like a great idea though for all the chassis, let us know when you finish those I would be interested in going that route and reusing alot of my w58 parts, I am sure others wouldn't mind doing the same to avoid bellhousing clearance issues.
I know this because with the shifter rod going to the stock shifter as shown, the front shifter has to be attached on top of that rod as shown in that video, which makes it turn the wrong way.
Nissan designs these transmissions to have the shifter attach under the shifter rod in a non remote setup, like the xterra arm goes below the shift rod so the shifter turns the right way on the same trans.
when I started out I realized that remote shift setups and normal shifter setups alot of times will be designed to turn opposite directions when they use both styles on the same trans.
things get kind of funny when you look at a remote shift w58, and realize one you detach the remote shifter part, it actually looks like the old w58 still under that.
the way to make it work I already posted to do at your own risk, cause well its risky. The shift arm for the front shifter has to be below the shifter rod, not on top of it. so to get the correct motion you have to cut off the shifter rod that normally sticks out the back of the transmission and then plug the hole so it doesn't leak. might have to make another support for ths shift rod in the front area due to it not being held in place by the rear housing anymore, but its doable.
Do note that that would only be helpfull in a mk3, in a mk4 or sc300 that would be further up than a w58 with the swan neck comes, so you would still have to run a very swan necked shifter, this is why I didn't do it that way was trying to solve the swan neck problem not have it from the front instead of the rear. on our cars you need it right above that "hump" where the shifter rod exits the rear housing, or right behind the black cover.
The bellhousing adapter looks like a great idea though for all the chassis, let us know when you finish those I would be interested in going that route and reusing alot of my w58 parts, I am sure others wouldn't mind doing the same to avoid bellhousing clearance issues.
Yeah I ended up redesigning the shifter shaft with a new cup. Works fine now. Also got it bolted up into the mkiii this weekend and it fits and some minor massaging of the tunnel will be needed.
08-05-15, 07:16 PM
#630
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So, just checking:
Has the shifter length issue been resolved via the 240/v160 hybrid shifter? I'm really considering this swap when I get my SC300, but I want a clean option. It's a toss up between the cd009 and a built auto right now.
Has the shifter length issue been resolved via the 240/v160 hybrid shifter? I'm really considering this swap when I get my SC300, but I want a clean option. It's a toss up between the cd009 and a built auto right now.
