350Z trans adapter?
#272
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Awesome, It sounds like it is working out well for you then. I am still undecided on if i want to use a flywheel adapter or get a custom flywheel/clutch made. My car is strictly track so I want to make sure it will take the abuse!
#274
Lexus Test Driver
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Worked on my sc400 some this weekend. got the auto out and bolted the trans up with clutch and flywheel. need to go back next weekend and make the trans mount and hopefully by then my driveshaft will be made, its measuring out to be 47".
I did run into a problem with my trans and had to tear it open. The reverse rod was stuck but the shifter was in neutral. I have to replace my reverse rod bushing in the rear housing of the trans and all will be good. No idea how it happened as it shifted fine before. oh well. Very few pictures.
tools needed.
lots. and red loctite
AND TO ANSWER SOME OF THE COMMON QUESTIONS:
- bolts for the transmisson to adapter are m12x1.75 for the larger bolts
- m10x1.5 for the smaller bolts on the bottom
- sr/ka transmission mount does bolt up to the transmission
- short shifter will work
- egr can still stay on but we decided to get rid of it. to keep it all you have to do is bend it slightly out of the way.
tunnel is clear
exhaust and trans lines off. NOTE: connected the old lines together on the front of the radiator with the existing hose. when you get there you will understand.
starter bolts need to be grinded down to fit the adapter on the motor. ALSO in this picture the harness in the upper left needs to be moved out of the way and is held on by a 12mm bolt. take the bolt off and push it up. its the starter harness so be careful.
right starter bolt head grinded down, i took about half off. things are huge. boht need to be done.
i am using my gutted oem cats still and they needed to be bang in to accommodate the trans tunnel. ALSO my buddy decided to cut the old starter flange as it was hitting. will have pics showing that whenever i go back to the car next wekend.
flywheel on,. from collins. its a milled out 3sgte flywheel
and the first set of wires from the harness contain your two black wires(grounds) you need to connect to start the car. your nss, (neutral safety switch)
two yellow ends. find them then test jump them.
if it starts!!! spliceeeeeeee (i did solder and heat shrink after no pic though)
TRANS INSTALL NOTE: we had to drop the rear(front) subframe to get the transmission on the adapter. full tilted it works fine and you can reach the upper bolts. i know people are like me and dont want to pull the 1uz out. if so this is definitely necessary.
from there i stopped taking pictures as its just like a clutch change. but next week as i have to tear it all apart anyway i will have more pictures of everything. so for the 1uz people ask here and you may receive.
I did run into a problem with my trans and had to tear it open. The reverse rod was stuck but the shifter was in neutral. I have to replace my reverse rod bushing in the rear housing of the trans and all will be good. No idea how it happened as it shifted fine before. oh well. Very few pictures.
tools needed.
lots. and red loctite
AND TO ANSWER SOME OF THE COMMON QUESTIONS:
- bolts for the transmisson to adapter are m12x1.75 for the larger bolts
- m10x1.5 for the smaller bolts on the bottom
- sr/ka transmission mount does bolt up to the transmission
- short shifter will work
- egr can still stay on but we decided to get rid of it. to keep it all you have to do is bend it slightly out of the way.
tunnel is clear
exhaust and trans lines off. NOTE: connected the old lines together on the front of the radiator with the existing hose. when you get there you will understand.
starter bolts need to be grinded down to fit the adapter on the motor. ALSO in this picture the harness in the upper left needs to be moved out of the way and is held on by a 12mm bolt. take the bolt off and push it up. its the starter harness so be careful.
right starter bolt head grinded down, i took about half off. things are huge. boht need to be done.
i am using my gutted oem cats still and they needed to be bang in to accommodate the trans tunnel. ALSO my buddy decided to cut the old starter flange as it was hitting. will have pics showing that whenever i go back to the car next wekend.
flywheel on,. from collins. its a milled out 3sgte flywheel
and the first set of wires from the harness contain your two black wires(grounds) you need to connect to start the car. your nss, (neutral safety switch)
two yellow ends. find them then test jump them.
if it starts!!! spliceeeeeeee (i did solder and heat shrink after no pic though)
TRANS INSTALL NOTE: we had to drop the rear(front) subframe to get the transmission on the adapter. full tilted it works fine and you can reach the upper bolts. i know people are like me and dont want to pull the 1uz out. if so this is definitely necessary.
from there i stopped taking pictures as its just like a clutch change. but next week as i have to tear it all apart anyway i will have more pictures of everything. so for the 1uz people ask here and you may receive.
Last edited by iridebmx; 12-02-13 at 05:10 AM.
#278
Do that or do the cupholder in the dashboard! I saw a post about doing something like that awhile ago with a camary cupholder or something
#279
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
I would just be worried about it being too close for comfortable shifting. I really like where the stock location is I am not sure how I would cope with it being where the cup holder is for very long but everyone likes it in different spots.
Also I just read a few pages back that it would still hit the sides even if you put it where the cup holder is due to how wide the shift pattern is.
Also I just read a few pages back that it would still hit the sides even if you put it where the cup holder is due to how wide the shift pattern is.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-09-13 at 09:59 AM.
#280
I would just be worried about it being too close for comfortable shifting. I really like where the stock location is I am not sure how I would cope with it being where the cup holder is for very long but everyone likes it in different spots.
Also I just read a few pages back that it would still hit the sides even if you put it where the cup holder is due to how wide the shift pattern is.
Also I just read a few pages back that it would still hit the sides even if you put it where the cup holder is due to how wide the shift pattern is.
and about the sides.... maybe some custom fiberglass and change the size of the center console.
don't know yet I haven't started my project yet... just gathering parts
#283
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This thread has become confusing, between us with the 1UZ and all the 2JZ.
Does the 350z transmission sit further back on the JZ?
Its coming to be about time when I can afford to do this swap, trying to research hard now.
with the 1UZ does the bellhousing need to be machined?
Does the 350z transmission sit further back on the JZ?
Its coming to be about time when I can afford to do this swap, trying to research hard now.
with the 1UZ does the bellhousing need to be machined?
#285
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
This thread has become confusing, between us with the 1UZ and all the 2JZ.
Does the 350z transmission sit further back on the JZ?
Its coming to be about time when I can afford to do this swap, trying to research hard now.
with the 1UZ does the bellhousing need to be machined?
Does the 350z transmission sit further back on the JZ?
Its coming to be about time when I can afford to do this swap, trying to research hard now.
with the 1UZ does the bellhousing need to be machined?
I used the KA trans. The only things I had to do was grind down the starter bolts, and cut off the starter hump on the bell housing of the KA trans. The starter hump on the bell housing gets in the way and is a pain to get it in the car. Oh, and you have to "knife" the starter gear also. This just assures the starter gear will align properly with the flywheel. Everything else is bolt on.