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Old 03-04-12, 02:08 AM
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abstractjz
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Default no heat

i have a 1995 lexus sc300 2jzge and i have no heat i recently replaced the thermastat because of my overheating issue and still no heat and its still running hot now i know it can either be the heater control valve or the water pump or the air blender door there are no leaks even with a pressure test. information is really needed
Old 03-04-12, 05:33 AM
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BenStoked
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just to be sure I understand you correctly, you're worried about your heater, while your engine is dying?
Old 03-04-12, 07:55 AM
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g4ebguy90
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I think his water pump or something took a crap. Cause the heater core needs coolant circulating to keep warming the air. To top it off his car is still running hot, so in all sense he should have heat like hardcore.
Old 03-04-12, 08:57 AM
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abstractjz
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well the car has never died on me this issue started with no heat first but i was under the empression that it was because of Tstat plus it was overheating also so after the replacing of the Tstat with no good results leads me to my first post......
Old 03-04-12, 09:16 AM
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BenStoked
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....which leads me to bhg.
If your car is overheating, even after a t-stat replacement, you need to find the cause.
Is the car putting out white smoke, too?
Old 03-04-12, 09:27 AM
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abstractjz
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no white smoke or anything just overheating while stoped in traffic and no heat at all,,,,,,,,im currently bleeding my coolant system now to see if i have any luck
Old 03-04-12, 09:34 AM
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Luxor
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Do this...with the key in the ON position. Turn your temp **** from 74º to 76º back and forth in slow intervals and see if the heater control valve opens at 76 and closes at 74.
Old 03-04-12, 09:42 AM
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prtsfrmjpn
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I blame ecu for my problem. When I swapped them I got my cylinder back but lost heat and overdrive . May be another thing to add to your list
Old 03-04-12, 09:47 AM
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SFrymyah
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Originally Posted by Luxor
Do this...with the key in the ON position. Turn your temp **** from 74º to 76º back and forth in slow intervals and see if the heater control valve opens at 76 and closes at 74.
Good info here, but I vote a problem with the water pump as well. Sounds like the heater core isnt getting any flow to it.
Old 03-04-12, 10:47 AM
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abstractjz
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Ok false alarm I just bled the system and and kept reving the rpm to 2grand and more bubbles came so after a half gallon of water everything is good no overheating and heat is like lava thank for all the help and info......
Old 03-04-12, 12:16 PM
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JustChill
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What was ur process of bleeding at the system?
Old 03-04-12, 12:35 PM
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abstractjz
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Originally Posted by JustChill
What was ur process of bleeding at the system?
taking the radiator cap off
starting the engine
letting it reach opp temp
adding 50/50 water and coolant
and reving the engine to relive air pockets
and topping off the coolant when no more bubbles are visible
putting the radiator cap back on
30min for me
Old 03-04-12, 05:32 PM
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JustChill
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Was Ur car also idling high til u got the air out of the system?
Old 03-04-12, 10:16 PM
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abstractjz
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No the ldle was normal as far as I can tell
Old 03-05-12, 12:24 PM
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jme4130
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Glad your car is good. I have seen clogged heater cores before and its a pain to clean them out! I had to clean out an old Caddy heater core once. Popped off the heater hoses and put some pressured water up to one of the heater hoses. Cranked up the pressure and about a gallon of rusty muddy water shot out all over the wall and ceiling! But problem was solved. Heater worked great after that.
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