cartmill

iTrader: (3)

1992, guy, who really cars which brand oil it is? the competition between oil brands is like 90% customer loyalty anyway. are you pushing your oil to over 10k miles between changes?

i've used rotella 15w40 in my engines in the middle of the summer before (we know it gets hot in the south), and castrol 20w50 in my rotaries.

now i like to go with 10w30 mobil1 full synthetic in the summer, 5w30 in the summer, for what it's worth.

LunaVyohr

Yes. 0w-30 flows better on start up.

Justin727

Ran valvoline 5w30 synpower in my IS300 since I've owned it with no bad results. The time I did the vc gasket change @ 106k the inside of the vc's looked spotless. The only reason I changed the gaskets werent because they were leaking but I was doing a tune up and while I was there did it so I wouldn't have to take everything off again.


Been running mobil 1 10w30 in both the 1j sc and supra.. May end up switching to 5w30 synpower in the sc.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

These are all good results from different oil brands and weights. Keep the findings coming!!

S14eva1

iTrader: (6)

Mobil 15w50 + K&N filter<<< been using it for a few years now after switching from valvoline VR1 10w40 racing oil....the 50weight is important to me because are weather down here averages 100deg + most of the year.An oil cooler also helps for those who drive hard or drive in extremely hot weather.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I dont think I have ever seen 50 weight oil....Thats good to know.

S14eva1

iTrader: (6)

50 weight has to do with the viscosity of the oil at full operating temps....the first number 15 weight refers to the viscosity of the oil at its coolest point.

It is recommended to run thinner oil in cooler weather and much thicker oil in hotter weather.Also the mileage and for what the motor will be used for comes into play when determining what oil to use.

Finally the chemicals...additives,minerals etc play another role on what will be the best oil to use for your application.Amsoil,Motul,Royale Purple are expensive for a reason because they use top secret additives and minerals as far as what they claim.

From my experience no matter what oil you are going to use if you have a FI setup and put the motor through hard driving and extreme temps on a regulary bases,change your oil atleast every 2-2.5k miles or once a month.

Banikid

iTrader: (2)

Great thread! I never really paid attention to oil. I always use Mobil 1 synthetic.

JPKeiichi

iTrader: (2)

I've been using the nippon oil Eneos for the past year

LunaVyohr

Unless you are racing constantly, you should ALWAYS use a thinner oil, no matter what the temperatures. Oils that are too thick can become waxy and honey like when cold which causes premature wear on an engine during a cold start up.

For example, a mineral based 10W-30 oil will have a thickness of 100 centiStokes at 75F. A 0W-30 synthetic based oil will have a thickness of 40 centiStokes. The desired thickness your engine wants is 10 cS. At engine operating temperature (212F), both engine oils will have a thickness of 10 cS. Really thick oil will have a thickness of 20 cS at operating temperature.

Even when you are racing, you do not necessarily need thick oil. At 302F, 0W-30 will have a thickness of 3 cS. The reason you might think that you would use thick oil during racing is because it would maintain a higher pressure - however, as long as you have minimum pressure for the oil to move, you're fine. As the oil thins during high temperatures, flow will increase. This is a good thing - increased flow means better lubrication and cooling.

Synthetic oils do not have 'minerals'. One difference between mineral oil and synthetic oil is that mineral oils have IV viscosity index improver additives. Over time, these additives wear and mineral oils become too thin. They revert back to their original state of straight oil.

Synthetics don't have this problem. They don't have IV improver because they don't need it. A synthetic will never thin, but just like mineral oil, over a long period of time, it will become too thick.

If you are using synthetic oil, and you don't race on a regular basis, there is absolutely no reason to change your oil as often as 2000 or 2500 miles. You may actually create more wear on the engine by doing this. Hell, I run Castrol German as I said before, and I only change my oil every 7500-8000 miles.

The important part is to change your FILTER every 3000-3500 miles.

broda805

iTrader: (6)

^^LunaV states alot of good info and facts of these oils that ive also read elsewhere in an oil test breakdown

i agree on not needing to change that often if you are on a good synthetic oil there was a thread awhile back on a guy who used amsoil and boosted daily on a regular basis sent in his oil sample at 8k for an analysis showed very little oil breakdown meaning there was alot of life left in it.

SpecialK47

I have a stock 92 SC400 with the 1UZ pushing 184k+, odo didn't work when I bought it, still doesn't.

Anyhow, how would that 0 weight German oil run in it?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

I run 15W40 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter i drive my car everyday . i change my oil and filter every friday.

LunaVyohr

It would run great provided you've used synthetic so far throughout the engine's life. If not, and you're going to make the switch the switch to synthetic, I'd suggest replacing all of your old gaskets before doing so. Then, for the first 1500 miles, run a 10W-30 dino oil before making the switch to 0W-30 synthetic.

SC_coupe

I've been running LubroMoly 5W-40 in my Soarer with Toyota filters. Changed it out just before 5,000kms the first time and again at 2,700kms to have fresh oil in it for storage. I had an oil analysis done by Blackstone Labs and results were good (runs well, low wear numbers, and a healthy amount of additives left). I'll run whats in there for 5,000kms this time and get a second analysis to really get an idea on how well this stuff holds up.

I've been reading good things about Shell Rotella on the Bob is the Oil Guy forums, might give it a try.