sc300 1jz downpipe
02-21-12, 05:33 AM
#3
If the question is do they make them for a 1jz with stock twins? Then the answer is no. I'm actually going to working with Aaron on this to make a down pipe just for the 1jz sc300.
If you're single'd then yes they do offer a generic 3" dp that should work for your needs.
If you're single'd then yes they do offer a generic 3" dp that should work for your needs.
02-21-12, 11:37 AM
#4
If the question is do they make them for a 1jz with stock twins? Then the answer is no. I'm actually going to working with Aaron on this to make a down pipe just for the 1jz sc300.
If you're single'd then yes they do offer a generic 3" dp that should work for your needs.
If you're single'd then yes they do offer a generic 3" dp that should work for your needs.
02-21-12, 03:16 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: va
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah,this is exactly what I want too.I know they make one for the single kit.sorry I forgot to clarify that in the post.
02-21-12, 03:23 PM
#6
I'm sure he can do that.
I think that should be an option and another option for those that DO NOT want to run the y pipe in fear of killing the twins early.
So a new Y pipe and dp should be OPTION A
Just the dp off the stock y pipe should be OPTION B
Anyone else want to help support this?
Also if I had to ponder correctly and someone correct me if I'm wrong but the higher flowing y pipe is killing the stock twins because of what? Does it have to do with the shafts being ceramic?
If it does I know a guy who's building upgraded twins and can rebuild stock units at an affordable price. Even has the option of a stock rebuild and for an additional fee of upgrading to steel shafts instead of ceramic.
I think that should be an option and another option for those that DO NOT want to run the y pipe in fear of killing the twins early.
So a new Y pipe and dp should be OPTION A
Just the dp off the stock y pipe should be OPTION B
Anyone else want to help support this?
Also if I had to ponder correctly and someone correct me if I'm wrong but the higher flowing y pipe is killing the stock twins because of what? Does it have to do with the shafts being ceramic?
If it does I know a guy who's building upgraded twins and can rebuild stock units at an affordable price. Even has the option of a stock rebuild and for an additional fee of upgrading to steel shafts instead of ceramic.
02-21-12, 06:17 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: va
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm sure he can do that.
I think that should be an option and another option for those that DO NOT want to run the y pipe in fear of killing the twins early.
So a new Y pipe and dp should be OPTION A
Just the dp off the stock y pipe should be OPTION B
Anyone else want to help support this?
Also if I had to ponder correctly and someone correct me if I'm wrong but the higher flowing y pipe is killing the stock twins because of what? Does it have to do with the shafts being ceramic?
If it does I know a guy who's building upgraded twins and can rebuild stock units at an affordable price. Even has the option of a stock rebuild and for an additional fee of upgrading to steel shafts instead of ceramic.
I think that should be an option and another option for those that DO NOT want to run the y pipe in fear of killing the twins early.
So a new Y pipe and dp should be OPTION A
Just the dp off the stock y pipe should be OPTION B
Anyone else want to help support this?
Also if I had to ponder correctly and someone correct me if I'm wrong but the higher flowing y pipe is killing the stock twins because of what? Does it have to do with the shafts being ceramic?
If it does I know a guy who's building upgraded twins and can rebuild stock units at an affordable price. Even has the option of a stock rebuild and for an additional fee of upgrading to steel shafts instead of ceramic.
Trending Topics
02-21-12, 08:45 PM
#8
I think that should be an option and another option for those that DO NOT want to run the y pipe in fear of killing the twins early.
Also if I had to ponder correctly and someone correct me if I'm wrong but the higher flowing y pipe is killing the stock twins because of what? Does it have to do with the shafts being ceramic?
Also if I had to ponder correctly and someone correct me if I'm wrong but the higher flowing y pipe is killing the stock twins because of what? Does it have to do with the shafts being ceramic?
I've been running 14psi for about ~6000 miles now since last July on an ebay y-pipe and the turbos are just fine.
The ceramic delamination was a heat issue that I remember reading on the Aussie Soarer forums, could be solved by running a higher flowing aftermarket Y-pipe that doesn't trap as much heat.
02-21-12, 08:50 PM
#9
Hmmm I always understood it as the stock Y-pipe was too restrictive and the pressure would blow the seals out when running increased boost. Not that aftermarket Y-pipes cause premature failure.
I've been running 14psi for about ~6000 miles now since last July on an ebay y-pipe and the turbos are just fine.
The ceramic delamination was a heat issue that I remember reading on the Aussie Soarer forums, could be solved by running a higher flowing aftermarket Y-pipe that doesn't trap as much heat.
I've been running 14psi for about ~6000 miles now since last July on an ebay y-pipe and the turbos are just fine.
The ceramic delamination was a heat issue that I remember reading on the Aussie Soarer forums, could be solved by running a higher flowing aftermarket Y-pipe that doesn't trap as much heat.
02-22-12, 06:47 AM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: va
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmmm I always understood it as the stock Y-pipe was too restrictive and the pressure would blow the seals out when running increased boost. Not that aftermarket Y-pipes cause premature failure.
I've been running 14psi for about ~6000 miles now since last July on an ebay y-pipe and the turbos are just fine.
The ceramic delamination was a heat issue that I remember reading on the Aussie Soarer forums, could be solved by running a higher flowing aftermarket Y-pipe that doesn't trap as much heat.
I've been running 14psi for about ~6000 miles now since last July on an ebay y-pipe and the turbos are just fine.
The ceramic delamination was a heat issue that I remember reading on the Aussie Soarer forums, could be solved by running a higher flowing aftermarket Y-pipe that doesn't trap as much heat.
02-22-12, 07:04 AM
#11
From what I've read here on CL and SM is that the ebay y pipe causes the twins to prematurely fail and that it's a hit and miss. Some run on the y pipe for a good period of time and others not long after install have problems.
Now this could be just because of the fact that each engine mileage is unknown of course and how well taken care of each 1jz was..
The real question is has anyone rebuilt the stock twins and then ran the aftermarket y pipe and if so how many miles, how hard, and how are the stock twins holding up??
Now this could be just because of the fact that each engine mileage is unknown of course and how well taken care of each 1jz was..
The real question is has anyone rebuilt the stock twins and then ran the aftermarket y pipe and if so how many miles, how hard, and how are the stock twins holding up??
02-22-12, 08:40 AM
#12
I don't know how much I can provide in terms of pictures. It's kind of hard to see but since my cars in the air right now I'll see if I can snap a few undercar shots tonight. 
Install is a royal ******. The Ebay pipe needs to be "massaged" with a "small" sledgehammer to let you thread one of the nuts on the stud.
Over on SoarerCentral, it's somewhat general consensus that the largest restriction is the elbow coming off the stock twins especially since the rear opening is smaller and blocked by part of the front exit. It could very well be the reason why the majority of the turbo failures on these cars are rear turbos.
Doesn't address the topic specifically, but a couple of members mention the use of aftermarket "dump pipes" and heat issue. (Note: their terminology for "dump" pipe differs from the one we more commonly use) Search on there they have a pretty vast wealth of info on the topic. The search function on the site is pretty miserable so it's going to take a while
http://soarercentral.com/cgi-bin/sc-...834#POST444834
http://soarercentral.com/cgi-bin/sc-...780#POST223780
The aftermarket Y-pipe also makes you run a higher boost even with a stock catback (up to 14psi so far on my car). However, I don't think this causes as much strain on the turbos as having to push through the tiny openings of the factory Y.
Oh and it really makes the stock twins spool wicked LOUD.
Install is a royal ******. The Ebay pipe needs to be "massaged" with a "small" sledgehammer to let you thread one of the nuts on the stud.
Over on SoarerCentral, it's somewhat general consensus that the largest restriction is the elbow coming off the stock twins especially since the rear opening is smaller and blocked by part of the front exit. It could very well be the reason why the majority of the turbo failures on these cars are rear turbos.
Doesn't address the topic specifically, but a couple of members mention the use of aftermarket "dump pipes" and heat issue. (Note: their terminology for "dump" pipe differs from the one we more commonly use) Search on there they have a pretty vast wealth of info on the topic. The search function on the site is pretty miserable so it's going to take a while
http://soarercentral.com/cgi-bin/sc-...834#POST444834
http://soarercentral.com/cgi-bin/sc-...780#POST223780
The aftermarket Y-pipe also makes you run a higher boost even with a stock catback (up to 14psi so far on my car). However, I don't think this causes as much strain on the turbos as having to push through the tiny openings of the factory Y.
Oh and it really makes the stock twins spool wicked LOUD.
02-22-12, 08:57 AM
#13
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 838
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my ebay Y pipe holds just fine and my ct12a's are just fine when I was running close to 21lbs on my 1J.. What the Aussie guys stress is the Y pipe should continue its division further down and have a separate port for the WG.
Link to pics of Lews dump pipes: http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...75/286881.html
They are rare so when they are up for sale, they can be had for $500 plus. Shipping from AUS is a killer.. EMS and customs can be a pain.
Link to pics of Lews dump pipes: http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...75/286881.html
They are rare so when they are up for sale, they can be had for $500 plus. Shipping from AUS is a killer.. EMS and customs can be a pain.
02-22-12, 08:31 PM
#14
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: va
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my ebay Y pipe holds just fine and my ct12a's are just fine when I was running close to 21lbs on my 1J.. What the Aussie guys stress is the Y pipe should continue its division further down and have a separate port for the WG.
Link to pics of Lews dump pipes: http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...75/286881.html
They are rare so when they are up for sale, they can be had for $500 plus. Shipping from AUS is a killer.. EMS and customs can be a pain.
Link to pics of Lews dump pipes: http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...75/286881.html
They are rare so when they are up for sale, they can be had for $500 plus. Shipping from AUS is a killer.. EMS and customs can be a pain.
02-23-12, 12:16 PM
#15
That divorced wg design is a good design. 7mgte guys have been using that for years on the ct26 stock and upgraded with amazing results compared to just a regular 3"dp.