Shadowen

iTrader: (6)

I'm finally rebuilding my 2J. I'm doing it in class so I'll have all the equipment I need. What I was wondering is, What brands of parts should look for.
My goal is to single turbo the engine to reach the 500-600 whp range. I don't have a large budget, but I'm willing to buy what's needed. I want to do this right the first time to avoid problems later on.
Right now I have a GE block with stock internals. I have a GTE head that's had a minor port and polish I believe. I'm thinking I'll upgrade rods/pistons. I'll use ARP head studs and a GTE gasket.

In sort, I'm looking for "great for the price" parts and some experience on other things to watch out for.

Edit: I'm also not sure of the condition of my cams. I don't know that they've been stored well.

Thanks,
Ben

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

Buy what you can from Forum Members who have completed their projects and have leftovers or who have abandoned or redirected their projects. The ARP studs are definitely the way to go for 500-600 hp with the higher compression gasket. What is your limited budget? There may be some tradeoffs required but I doubt the FelPro head bolts I used are a good place to trim $100 for your project due to the higher hp target.

Shadowen

iTrader: (6)

My budget is really just spending only what I really need to and nothing extra.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

In that case the build is easy. Install head gasket with ARP studs. Apply boost and fuel.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Ok so if you goal is only gonna be 500-600rwhp i wouldn't even touch the bottom end if it's in good condition.

if you know you will push it to 900rwhp+, it will be a good idea to go with aftermarket rods, bearing, main cap and pistons.

For 800rwhp i wouldn't touch the block if it's in great condition, it's the head that make the power really so if you throw in some nice cams, spring and retainer you are golden.

If you gonna do HL cams i would recommend the billet timing tensioner.

stock USDM cams will make 800rwhp but it will be easier to make that power on aftermarket cams and at a lower PSI.
I wouldn't install aggressive cam on stock valvetrain.

What fuel are you gonna be running? just get a stock TT headgasket and please do not use 8.5.1 comp pistons if you decide you wanna build the engine.
On the right setup with a 67mm turbo with 81ar 264/272 cams will make 600rwhp on 93octane.

Seriously it's a nice that will make plenty of power just buy the right supporting mods.

Here is what i would get:
-TT headgasket
-GSC S1 cams
-GSC beehive Spring and retainers but Or can do BC if you want a cheaper route .
-Titan billet timing tensioner it's a must if you are going with HL cams
-New TT water pump
-New IS300 oil pump
-New TT headgasket kit
-Gates Timing belt
-ID1000cc injectors
-8 fuel rail
-Tial 44mm Wg
-Tial or HKS BOV
-4"DP/MP
-Ebay manifold or try to find drewgo there are very nice.
-Fuel pumps BOSCH 044/ Aeromotive stealth/deatschwerks pumps these are all very nice and reliable pumps.
-Standalone is a must for that kind of power whatever you tuner feels confortable with or Whatever you Like!
-Turbo is my domain I love nice turbos my favorite Turbo for 600-800rwhp is BW91-79 aka BW S366 with .91ar Divided on Divided manifold.

What trans are you going with ?

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

*Fixed

Not everyone is a baller Omar!

This recipe will get you 550hp easy, and it's cost effective!

Ask anyone that has read my build thread. I am the master at making stuff work on a budget.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

lOL that wasn't the case !

When he said build his engine , when you build an engine you usually have money to buy the right parts and not the cheapest stuff.

he wants to avoid issues down the line so no Ebay Wastegate

Everything that i listed doesn't have to be brand new, just look for nice deals.

Why buy 650cc where you can buy 1000cc for the same price.

He has to replace the fuel rail to run bigger injectors , because finding some side feed injectors that will drop in the stock rail won't be easy and cost anywhere for $550-$1000 depending on the brand and the size.

Once you go with an aftermarket rail you will need a FPR because you can't use the stock one anymore.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

the only thing i would go "cheap" on is the turbo manifold.

where the "cheaping out" will seriously bite you in the *** is in the precision machined/assembled stuff, like the turbo and the EMS

if i were to personally dive into another project (i did this two years ago and had to throw in the towel because the machine shop screwed up my cylinder head) i would use:
all OEM toyota seals (cam, front main, rear main, etc.)
new OEM TT headgasket
new OEM timing belt/tensioner/ water pump
new ARP head studs
new OEM oil pump
new garrett T-series non-bb turbo (half the cost of gt series and still can make big power)
ebay manifold (or used custom manifold/downpipe/etc.)
ebay oil feed/drain
ebay downpipe
ebay wastegate
ebay BOV
ebay fmic
AEM v1 plug-n-play (or Haltech or AEMv2 if you can spend the money)
used e85 fuel system with big injectors and multiple fuel pumps/lines/fittings/rail from supraforums -- (lots of money can be blown on fuel systems, get a used one. they don't really 'wear out') or if you want to use gasoline and make less power, just get some ~850cc injectors, but you won't make 550-600whp on regular gasoline (needs 110 octane, or e85)
cheap unsprung 6puck clutch disc with ACT pressure plate.

you can really spend a wide range of money on projects like this, but two huge things you don't want to skimp on is EMS/tuning and turbo unit.

and you're also going to have to do a R154 swap for ~1500 bucks (unless you want to spend 5k doing a V160 swap) because a w58 won't even consider holding 600wtq.

honestly, i would make my goal 400-450whp, as 500+whp takes your project to another level of expense and/or reliability, depending on how much money you have available to blow.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

What Omar and Spoolxexo said. You don't need to touch the bottom end for that power.
For 600hp, it is riskier to rebuild with aftermarket parts than to just leave it alone if its in good condition, you just need headgasket and Arp head studs, change all the gaskets, clean her up, and boost away.
You will need the usual turbo kit, engine management, and fuel supporting mods of course.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Agree with every rebuttal to my post.

Except for "cheaping" on a HX35 Cummins Holset turbo, which are nuclear bomb proof, and Mega squirt, which is a stand alone for $350.

Build this thing already!

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

^^Mega Squirt is very nice!! if you can get Jordan behind the keyboard he is the only one i will trust with MS in my car!

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

No doubt. Even so, I don't know if he ever did get the idle control working properly on his car. Last I heard, he was really struggling with it. That is the only sticking point for me and MS. I really hated the old idle control on MSI.

2slowsc300

iTrader: (1)

I did AEM EMS
weisco pistons
Eagle rods
ARP head an main studs
port n polish head
1000cc injectors
Dual walbros
Modded egay manifold
ITS 67mm turbo

2slowsc300

iTrader: (1)

Oh an 1.6mm cometic headgasket

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

you guys make me laugh