1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I am going to be running a catch can in my 1JZ setup. I have done some homework on this and need to know the best route and lines to go with. I have seen both lines on the intake and exhaust run into the DP, and the exhaust side run into the intake tubing, and some capped off when using a single, and some only used other means. This thread is for the discussion and you all think the correct way ought to be and why. If you post, pleas explain why this is the best. I have taking some pictures of the ports and the intake assembly just give you all the idea. I want to try and keep the PCV valve but not necessary. Thanks for any input our guidance. The last picture is where I would like to mount the container if I can get it to fit. I have my eye on a Greddy, but maybe the Ebay version may do the job the same.














The last idea was to run rubber lines instead of steel braided, easier to work with and so .. If I use any more in my setup, I think it will be too much. The use of the rubber lines, I can rub along the sides of the valve covers and tie in to the lines on the firewall, making it a cleaner look. JMO..

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Right now, I have the drivers side PCV kept stock, and the passenger side VC plumbed into a catch can. The other side of the catch can connects back into the turbo inlet. My IC pipes are bone dry and clean, but I think I will eventually add a larger can that ties into both VC, and connect the other side of the catch can back through the PCV and turbo inlet. Last time I had my intake off, it looked like I was sucking oil through the PCV at idle and high vacuum, because my entire intake was coated with oil.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

These are the results that I am looking into and wanting. What do you have, 1jz or 2jz, size can, type lines, location of can, and how long do you change/check it?

I am thinking of doing both lines into the can and not plumbing either into the air intake tubing. Thanks for the results. Any more out there? With pictures? Thx.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

subscribed

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

As my sig says, I have an Aristo 2JZGTE. I'll post some pics tomorrow. It is a homemade can I fabbed from a propane tank LOL. Not pretty, but effective. I am going to have a custom aluminum can TIG'd up once I perfect the design.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Thanks. I cant see your signature when I post and view from my cell. Sorry. It doesn't matter if it ain't pretty or not, just trying to figure out the correct route of lines, can location, and why!!! Thanks!!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If you want the best setup, vent both sides to a can and remove the pcv valve entirely.
If you vent both sides, the pcv is not needed because there will be no chance or pressurizing the crank case. This will allow for the most pressure to escape equally out both sides, which may decrease or prevent blow by entirely.

If you are running good boost on a single turbo with the stock pcv in place, it shuts under boost entirely, which means when you need to evacuate the most you have shut off one side of the crank case entirely, so all the pressure must escape off the passenger side, and when too much pressure builds up, it will take alot of oil along with it.

The pcv only helps you a little bit in vacuum at the expense of constantly oiling the insides of your intake, and hurting evacuation under boost. If you think about it, Oil blow-by is a consequence of too much pressure; and if you eliminate the pressure build up, you may find your catch can hardly gets any oil at all, which means if you open up the valve cover vents and remove the pcv, you have effectively doubled your ability to vent and you may not even need a catch can anymore.

Mine would never catch oil into my catch can at 12 psi w/stock pcv in place, passenger side to a catch can.
I bumped it up to 15 psi, Oil came out of the hose clamp on the passenger side, and put a decent amount of oil in my catch can.
Removed PCV valve, tapped valve cover for fitting, and put 2 breathers on each side of intake.
No more oil blow by and filters are bone dry, but I will probably put the can back on for aesthetics and to get a little vacuum by attatching it to the intake pipe.

For those that decide to remove the PCV and tap for a fitting (1/2" NPT tap fits without drilling), you have to remove the baffles underneath to get the shavings out, but you should really put them back in place. If you do not, you will still have lots of oil collecting in your can even if you have both sides vented.

On a side note, Do not run back into exhaust, many stories I hear are successful at this until several months later when the valves fail from heat and you get a nice oil smokeshow coming out of your exhaust.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

That's one of the best explanation I have seen on here. Thanks for the advice. Where is everyone mounting the can? I am keeping the abs and and the trac components.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, I have tried more setups than I care to remember, Where the charcoal canister is is a nice spot.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Do we need the charcoal canister? Is it a must?

A32Boost

I've always removed mines, in all my cars which are modded performance wise. Its only a must is you want to pass emissions in your state the "right" way

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

After several reseach threads on the net, the charcoal canistor is history. Will be removed tomorrow. Need to decide on the welded fitting with elbows, steel braided or just black hose ran to the oil catch can. Now will be the time to decide, since the covers are loose awaiting cams and seals.

Last question, what type of lines? heater hoses or power steering hoses, and size please if I decide to go steel braided.. No one has mentioned that.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

generally you use at least -10AN lines if you are using braided lines, or if using regular hose at least 5/8".
Both power steering or heater would probably work, but you can get clear heater hose at your local hardware store which is nice if you want to see whats going on, but braided is the cleanest but also the most expensive.

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

1jz, welded -10 AN lines to the valve cover, standard moroso can (for now my sponsor wants to change it to one of theirs) nylon braided lines and the can is where the stock charcoal canister is.

I have yet to drain my can though

if you do a can with a sizable filter on it you wont need to put a line to the intake.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

You may have fuel evaporation/smell issues once you remove the canister. Some Supra people relocate it to the rear bumper. To avoid removing the canister, I put my catch can on the back side of the drivers side shock tower and there is plenty of room. It is also away from the exhaust manifold heat, so should in theory condense the oil particulate a little bit better.