pieisgude

iTrader: (2)

Hey TechGreek, which side of the car is the ABS module at? Passenger side? Because if it is i may be in luck.

And over40driv, i currently have my whole carpet ripped up for this, i wish i had some schematics. Mine's an SC300 though, not sure how much it differs.

~edit~ (computer loaded this super slowly....)

thank you for those diagrams kind sir.

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

Name which diagram and I'll try to post it.

ABS Module is to the right of the ECU under carpet and heel guard.

pieisgude

iTrader: (2)

Wow, thanks dude. Yeah, i'm definitely going to have to take a look into this. My car recently came out of the shop, but they claimed they avoided anything electrical. Hmmm.

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

Here is a little known fact of dealerships/garages/computer repair/service related...

The service industry, especially in the auto world has become so dependent on tools to diagnose their issue they have lost the best one they ever had - their own brain.

The owners/garages/etc know this so they try to avoid any problem solving outside of a service manual, such as in your case electrical possibility. That means they would have to teach a tech how to check resistance values, etc - and that's something the majority of them don't want to waste time on when they could be charging 3x the amount for on a brake pad job.

---

Back to the thread lol, did they fix it?

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Well now we know all the mechanics you know work at Autozone. Today's techs are just that.....techs. They are trained in much more sophisticated environments than ever before on cars that have an ECU for everything these days. Just to do car audio in a newer vehicle requires integration modules because most head units are now tied into the security systems, even on cheaper cars. Todays tech make the smack talking DIY'er look like a fool sitting on a log. They are not grease monkeys working on 20 year old technology. They are knee deep in amazing systems that are designed today which integrate into all newly designed parts with their own failsafes built in so you already know where they are going to fail. The modules themselves are throwaway parts, designed to be replaced. When they work on dinosaurs like the SC, they have better tools than any grease monkey ever did to do it with as Fluke scopes and other tools they are trained with are much better.

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't consider the tech foreman at Lexus of Bossier a "autozone" mechanic. I've had almost an entire dealerships worth of people look at my car when I had issues with over drive and no one could solve it - and that was after charging me. I thought it would be done right the first time, being my company vehicle I needed it working ASAP so I brought it to them. I ended up fixing the issue my self, which I should have just did in the first place but time is money.

I've got a client that has a 2010 Chevy Silverado at the dealership for three weeks now because it randomly won't start, and they've charged him almost a thousand dollars in parts that they said were bad that I went behind and checked all the specs that came out fine. They are literally throwing parts at the situation instead of properly diagnosing it.

I agree that the new diagnostic systems are amazing but I disagree on the fact that they are the "solve all" solution. I've seen plenty of issues that the technicians haven't been able to fix here locally because they didn't understand the logic of problem solving a situation because it wasn't in a computer somewhere.

Then again I do live in Louisiana, and that's pretty much the reason why everyone brings their cars to Dallas from here. It may be different else where, but in Shreveort/Bossier it's sad...

I guess my point is, the new systems are great and the techs that do it (I mean, I love all the new stuff that makes my life easier in a IT environment) but they don't really get the roots of cars in terms of electronics and diagnostic anymore without having a fancy computer/diagnostic for you system.

over40driv

Thanks Techgeek for the exploded diagram, it shows me a lot of parts, If you could possably get a more exploded view of the fuse panel with relay descriptions. Havent read your post yet but want to reply. Trying to figure out what R/B -- J/B stand for.

over40driv

I am a starter and alt. rebuilder and wish I had the intelligence and training to troubleshoot and diagnose electrical problems but I dont. I am trained in my field and try to be the best. Iv tried to read wiring schematics and its very con fusing. If I went into wiring as a proffesion than I wouldnt know everything I do about my job. The beauty of car forumns is that every body puts their heads together and tells what they know to try and help each other. Thanks for your quick response Techgeek and OLT.

over40driv

Wait a minute I didnt see the last diagramn from page 1.

pieisgude

iTrader: (2)

Well, i worked on it for an hour or so and nothing. I pulled all the fuses and the integration relay down at the driver's feet and put some dielectric grease on the terminals. I also pulled the harness plugs and checked them, they all checked out.

Where exactly is the ABS ECU? I pulled the carpet up at the passenger's foot well and there's this big black plastic thing that i'm assuming either has to do with the A/C, or it's hiding the ECUs.

I hate asking, but you wouldn't know of anything else to look for?

over40driv

An ECU thats under the carpet will always have a protective case around it, so it would be the one closest to the door.

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

There are two small boxes under that protective cover, the one on the right would be the ABS ECU.

over40driv

I must have over looked the integration relay.

hoosier58

I'm glad I came here and saw those diagrams ---- thanks!
I just bought a 94 sc300 Monday night after the body man that was doing a fix and flip on it primed a rear quarter repair and put the bumper back on.

It drove good Saturday (though I heard a really minor belt squeal at med RPM), when I test drove, so I told him to finish the body and I'd take it. Picked it up Monday night and all seemed good. Yesterday morning started it with major belt noise, and saw the serpentine was tracking bad ----- grrrr ---- but took it for a short drive for tires. Power steering was hard at idle, and the stereo started cutting in and out --- it also missed accelerating at around 3K. I might have also had some of the other things described at the start of the thread, but it was a 1/2 mile drive home, then I had to go do other things the rest of the day.
Went out this morning to try to troubleshoot, and the battery was too dead to crank her. Jumped it, and no belt noise, the sepentine ran almost perfectly straight, and everything worked fine except the radio didn't come on at first. Ran for cigs, came back, turned it off, the restarted to take my daughter to work and everything seemed fine again. Let her drive the ten miles to work, en route the mild belt squak was intermittent, and right as we were getting there the stereo started blinking out off and on again. When I started home it seemed worse --- I could hear low level base out of the trunk though, even when everything else seemed out, so I just turned to sound system off. Then I noticed that the battery light was on, and the traction control was turning on and off by itself. The ABS light was also coming on intermittent. Got home, turned it off, and the battery was too dead to crank it again (accesories work and relay fast clicks).
My issues don't sound identicle, but do sound close, those those diagrams were great, and I'll be checking back to add anything I figure out, as well as looking for answers.
Can a belt tensioner be bad, but still run true some of the time?
How do you remove that thing to check it out on a bench?

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

Have you guys checked your harmonic balancer?