imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

Alright im basically about to order my swap this week and im trying to get everything together before the install...the reason being is its my daily and when i go to do the swap i have literally 2 maybe 3 days to complete it..so im trying to get everything ready so its finished(or at least driveable)

i will be ordering a soarer swap for simple installation..

So ive read quite a bit about the swap and trying to get the wiring figured out correctly. Lately ive read a few people suggesting using a patch harness..so im inquiring about that..if i order a patch harness thats extended to 18-20" will this suffice and avoid any additional extending or will i still need to lengthen some body plugs..if so which ones??

just looking for people who have done this that may have some advice

if not if someone that has info on exactly what to extend on the soarer harness ..i just read a lot of swaps and havent found any that go into more detail on the wiring and i just want to be 100% ready for this..thanks...

also if your going to simply say search dont post please..ive been reading quite a bit of info from 05 to present from chaser to soarer to supra swaps with info changing as technology or experience or more items become available so any and all info is appreciated..thanks again.

JDMb16bEG6

Well I'm on the same situation your in right now, I already have my swap Sittin in my garage, and the car is my daily. I my self have a 1jz vvti out of a soarer, already rear sump, and as for extending the harness. You do not have to extend the whole harness, all you have to extend are the body plugs. The ecu plugs do not have to be extended, unless you want the ecu to sit in the factory location, if not it will just sit behind the glove box. I myself, am only extending the body plugs, not really worried about where the ecu sits, hope this helps

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

definitely does, so basically a patch harness extension would allow for it to easily sit in the stock location and not have to worry about it..is that the 18" thats needed to sit it int he stock location...lastly the knock sensor wires that need insulation...are they clustered in the ecu wiring or is that something totally different...and since you have first hand on the vvti...how much different/harder is it? ive been considering it so much but most of the things i find are "wiring is so hard etc etc and not worth it" ...hard to find people that diy without sending out their harness.

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

oh one more thing, the ecu sitting behind the dash?...idc honestly but doesnt it have to be grounded?...i just noticed one time when switching ecu's in my car since my original was bad..when i hooked up the new ecu and it wasn't screwed in the stock location it either didnt start or ran like crap i cant remember been almost 2 yrs..but either way it wasnt right until i secured it in stock location...

JDMb16bEG6

18 inchs is what you need for both, only if you want it to sit in factory location if not then just the body plugs, as for grounding the ecu, there's a couple empty threaded holes on the ecu, get a little bolt and a ground wire, and ground it behind the glove box

JDMb16bEG6

If you get a motor out of a soarer then its plug and play except the extending body harness but that's about it, the knock sensor shielded wires are on the ecu side of the harness, if you do not extend the ecu harness then you do not have to worry about the shielded wires, but if you do want to extend the knock sensor harness you can use usb cable for shielded wire

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

^ thanks so much for the info really appreciate it...just curious do we know why they need to be shielded? i mean if they make it through the firewall id think they'd be safe..? if not then the patch harness would need to have shielded wires as well if one where to go that route...

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

im actually kinda worried where this is going, so im going to step in and help...

1) it's NOT going to take 2-3 days to even get it driveable unless you're really lucky and have plenty of help. Take your time and prep the engine properly before you drop it in so you save yourself from headaches down the road. i would give your self a week or more to pull the old engine, get the new engine in, and work out all the kinks/bad parts that need to be replaced. Don't rush it, i did and i paid both more time and money than i wanted to.

2) for extending the wiring, i highly recommend extending all the ECU and body plug wires the 18 in. as recommended earlier. It will be much simpler to have the new ECU sit in the location where the old ECU would sit (under the carpet on the pass. side). That way you can make mounting the ECU easier and trace wiring problems with the ECU right next to the body plugs. When extending the wiring do it where you leave a good chunk of the original wiring on the ECU side so you can identify wiring colors and source problems easier should they arise. For shielded wiring, the easiest way to extend that wiring is to extend the unshielded portion closest to the ECU. That way you don't have to source USB cable or what not and take more time in splicing and extending.

I've been through this swap and i went in thinking i had it all figured out. Fact was i found some things that the internet nor people did NOT know. So don't do what i did, make sure that you have all your loose ends figured out and have a back up plan should your 2-3 day swap doesn't go as planned...good luck

JDMb16bEG6

It has to be shielded because of electrical frequencies/noise from other wires and noise, so they shield it and wrap it inside

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

@ stick, this is exactly why im trying to gather all the tid bits to make this seamless as possible...as far as the swap not going as planned, i COULD use my dads truck for a couple of days worst case but im trying to get everything as ready as possible..the motor will be sitting at my work until its ready time where ill be extending the harness and doing maintenance (front/rear main seal/serp belt/timing belt) things of that nature...

the wiring it self i do feel confident in that, im a computer nerd for the most part and have been building/modifying since i was 14...definitely have depinned plenty of wires/made special connectors/made extensions and so one for power supplies when i did all my wiring/sleeving..so im ok there as far as that goes, what i did have a concern with is the usb cable..idk how many wires are dedicated to the knock sensor but usb cable wires(the actual wires inside are very small ...not a problem to solder but just seem smaller then what one would expect or want to use for that ...

and if i understand correctly, the "shielded" part doesnt go all the way to the ecu?...so what part of the wire actually needs to be shielded? whats in the engine bay?..

thanks again for everything guys i do appreciate it...and want to clear things up that aren't typically talked about in detail ..

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

Its not shielded all the way to the ECU, there is a section before the ECU that is not shielded which is what what i've extended. I haven't had any issues crop up knock sensor related, no codes or sudden retarding of timing. If you are comfortable with soldering shielded wiring then knock yourself out.

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

im just confident in soldering in general, but if its unnecessary then wouldnt waste my time on doing it. so was just curious about that, thanks for that tid bit though would definitely come in handy

GSXRMack

iTrader: (3)

I don't know about the VVTI but I would extend the wires more than 18 inches 20-24 would give you plenty of room for add-ons to the ECU harness. I went 18 and even with my Emanage patch harness it still doesn't fit in the stock location. I have a thread up of my troubles and everything.

sc300bigtx

iTrader: (13)

i agree with StiCk3 on this bro
when i did mine last year i thought i had pretty much everything figured out WRONG!
ended up taking more time more headaches and more stress ended up having to use the folks car for work
dont rush doing this cause you will beat yourself up over it later

GSXRMack

iTrader: (3)

I agree 100%.
Attempt to take your time.
From experience if you work at it for 8-10 hours at a time you'll miss something.