single turbo questions.
08-22-11, 09:06 PM
#1
single turbo questions.
okay, i know im gonna get ratted on for not searching, but i honestly have spent my evening searching and have not found any answers to my questions, could some members help me out here and give me some positive input? i am shooting for about 550 hp when im done, its a 1jz-gte with a fmic, and a few other small performance mods to it, but nothing really. i am currently running the w58, witch i know will need replacing, and i am prepared for, i just find it a lot easier to find the turbo and everything else i need, can someone help me out on here? i parts list would help me so much. thanks in advance guys!!
08-22-11, 10:53 PM
#3
i know, i understand that, thats why i asked if anyone could help me out with a parts list, becuase i do know of a few of the things you need to replace to support my power range, but im just not 100% sure yet. and my plan is to gather all of my parts first, then i can hopefully just get it all together at once, instead of my car being down many separate times.
08-22-11, 11:33 PM
#6
IMO, I would spend a bit extra from the get go so you don't have to do it down the road. As with engine management, a piggy back will have no issues getting you to your power goals. I would suggest going standalone, far more options and tune ability offered. I would always suggest running an external gate, keeps it separate and easier to service. You have far better gate options while going external.
As far as hotside hosing it depends on what you're wanting, low to mid range or mid to top end. As far as what my friends do, we'll typically go with a larger A/R for top end power. Your build and parts will dictate your ideal housing for your given situation. You have to research and look for builds similar to what you're going after. Intake, exhaust and headwork work will greatly affect how responsive a set-up is.
As far as hotside hosing it depends on what you're wanting, low to mid range or mid to top end. As far as what my friends do, we'll typically go with a larger A/R for top end power. Your build and parts will dictate your ideal housing for your given situation. You have to research and look for builds similar to what you're going after. Intake, exhaust and headwork work will greatly affect how responsive a set-up is.
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08-22-11, 11:53 PM
#8
I wouldn't necessarily say you have to scrap it but worst case you could mock up the charge pipes to the new turbo and see if it cools the charge sufficiently; if not all you'll have to do is replace the core and modify the pipes to fit, as they should not vary greatly in fitment.
08-23-11, 12:08 AM
#9
im still not finding answers for what i need, not from SChema, you have been a HUGE help. i hate to nag you, but could you just tell me somethings that must be replaced? that are too weak to deal with what my power goals are, i know my transmission will, and probably my injectors, if you could help me out a bit more then you already have, that would be FANTASTIC!
08-23-11, 02:16 AM
#10
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You will defently need bigger injectors 650cc range will be enuff and upgraded fuel pump.. fuel pressure regulator. Stand alone way to go that way you can make more tweaks in your tuning. That tranny is going to break at these hp ratings get a six speed ..
Or r15 but buy time you build up that r tranny you are close to a six speed price range unless u find a r15 for bout four hundred bucks but you will still have to exstend the shifter to fit the sc and replace thrust washers and all with crawler parts witch will add up
.why if you just save up get six speed with dual plate clutch you will be better off in long run.good luck
Or r15 but buy time you build up that r tranny you are close to a six speed price range unless u find a r15 for bout four hundred bucks but you will still have to exstend the shifter to fit the sc and replace thrust washers and all with crawler parts witch will add up
.why if you just save up get six speed with dual plate clutch you will be better off in long run.good luck
08-23-11, 09:33 AM
#11
As far as driveline, you best option would be using the R154 for your power goals. The lowest V160/161 I've seen go for used is around 3000 - 3500, that will be more than enough to cover your cost of parts to do the full R154 conversion on your car. That transmission will hold ~550 easy, many have seen ~700. You will need to look into the driveshaft and differential, output shafts should be good. Driveline components typically don't break unless your run from a dig.
All in all you need to decide and finalize your build. You want to build to have head room for more later, you don't want to build for 550 and not have enough down the road.
Parts that would need to be replaced:
Fuel:
Both injectors and rail would have to be replaced, opting out to top feed instead of the factory side feed. Rail with dual feed, single return is the most efficient. Run AN fittings, more money at the beginning but saves a lot of headaches in the future. Dual Denso pumps should supply more than enough fuel, many have have pushed ~850. Get youself a good Fuel Pressure Regulator. One other thing you should consider is to weld the injector bungs to the lower manifold, that area is prone to boost and fuel leaks. Make sure you decide one the type of fuel you are going to run. I'm not sure how much ethanol is available in Canada, so plan that out. I would look into ID or FIC injectors both manufacturers have been proven to flow lots of fuel and great for drive ability.
Engine:
How much do you want to invest in the motor, are you going to be happy with the 1J, you ever plan on going 2J? The 10k+ you spend on engine work is a large sum. Bottom end could range from a factory build to replacing pistons, wrist pins, connecting rods, bearings and the labor involved. Headwork is another expense that includes custom port work, camshafts and timing components and of course the labor.
For ~550, I don't see you having to replace a lot of the components internally. It's just a thought if you plan on rebuilding. Sometimes it's good to build certain areas while the motor is apart instead of paying for labor twice.
Turbo:
Decide on the turbo application you want to run. T4 frame would be a good start, it allows for a good variety of turbos to choose from for you application. Think about housing options on either open or divided, I would suggest divided. Splurge on a good exhaust manifold design, it's one the key components in controlling boost. Choose quality one and you can basically forget about it in the future as your build grows. Wastegates, decide if you want to run a single or dual. A dual set up will allow you to control boost better by dividing pressure into two banks instead of six runners going into one.
Intake:
This area of your application is not too complicated. Your stock manifold will flow more than enough for ~550. If anything, you could gasket match the ports but the gains will probably be minimal. Any clamps on the pressure side of the cold side should be replaced by T-bolt clamps and quality couplers. These clamps hold much better than the screw type and is less prone to slip under boost. Piping is more than likely a custom application depending on the core you plan to use and placement.
Electronics:
As mentioned before, standalone management is a good investment. It will cost more at the beginning but it will also tidy up the interior by deleting excessive gauges. A standalone system will allow you to log any runs and check different parameters afterwards. You could technically get by with running only a fuel pressure gauge and AFR. Boost and EGT gauges are more for eye candy. Your AFR and fuel pressure gauges will be the ones you focus on.
Drivetrain:
If you don't think you'll see more than ~650 - 700, I think you should be fine with the R154, it will be about the third of the cost of the V160/161. Get a quality multi-disk clutch and look into your differential options.
This is a general layout of parts that you may or may not end up needing but all of these areas are important to look through to make sure everything is suitable for your needs.
All in all you need to decide and finalize your build. You want to build to have head room for more later, you don't want to build for 550 and not have enough down the road.
Parts that would need to be replaced:
Fuel:
Both injectors and rail would have to be replaced, opting out to top feed instead of the factory side feed. Rail with dual feed, single return is the most efficient. Run AN fittings, more money at the beginning but saves a lot of headaches in the future. Dual Denso pumps should supply more than enough fuel, many have have pushed ~850. Get youself a good Fuel Pressure Regulator. One other thing you should consider is to weld the injector bungs to the lower manifold, that area is prone to boost and fuel leaks. Make sure you decide one the type of fuel you are going to run. I'm not sure how much ethanol is available in Canada, so plan that out. I would look into ID or FIC injectors both manufacturers have been proven to flow lots of fuel and great for drive ability.
Engine:
How much do you want to invest in the motor, are you going to be happy with the 1J, you ever plan on going 2J? The 10k+ you spend on engine work is a large sum. Bottom end could range from a factory build to replacing pistons, wrist pins, connecting rods, bearings and the labor involved. Headwork is another expense that includes custom port work, camshafts and timing components and of course the labor.
For ~550, I don't see you having to replace a lot of the components internally. It's just a thought if you plan on rebuilding. Sometimes it's good to build certain areas while the motor is apart instead of paying for labor twice.
Turbo:
Decide on the turbo application you want to run. T4 frame would be a good start, it allows for a good variety of turbos to choose from for you application. Think about housing options on either open or divided, I would suggest divided. Splurge on a good exhaust manifold design, it's one the key components in controlling boost. Choose quality one and you can basically forget about it in the future as your build grows. Wastegates, decide if you want to run a single or dual. A dual set up will allow you to control boost better by dividing pressure into two banks instead of six runners going into one.
Intake:
This area of your application is not too complicated. Your stock manifold will flow more than enough for ~550. If anything, you could gasket match the ports but the gains will probably be minimal. Any clamps on the pressure side of the cold side should be replaced by T-bolt clamps and quality couplers. These clamps hold much better than the screw type and is less prone to slip under boost. Piping is more than likely a custom application depending on the core you plan to use and placement.
Electronics:
As mentioned before, standalone management is a good investment. It will cost more at the beginning but it will also tidy up the interior by deleting excessive gauges. A standalone system will allow you to log any runs and check different parameters afterwards. You could technically get by with running only a fuel pressure gauge and AFR. Boost and EGT gauges are more for eye candy. Your AFR and fuel pressure gauges will be the ones you focus on.
Drivetrain:
If you don't think you'll see more than ~650 - 700, I think you should be fine with the R154, it will be about the third of the cost of the V160/161. Get a quality multi-disk clutch and look into your differential options.
This is a general layout of parts that you may or may not end up needing but all of these areas are important to look through to make sure everything is suitable for your needs.
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