Another O. L. T. DIY - In depth with the heater core control valve
02-19-14, 06:04 PM
#61
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Location: Fl
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I am having issues with my heat and AC. Have been told this is one of the main concerns for my heating. Living in FL the temp right now is in the high 60's to low 70's and I am freezing so i need this fixed ASAP
02-19-14, 06:35 PM
#62
FD3etty, is your heater not working due to a broken HCV or are you having trouble with the whole module's electronic and/or VSV function?
If it's only the former then you can use the valve I listed earlier in the thread to swap in and have the system up and running again.
I have pictures I took at the time I repaired mine. I will try to make some time to post the steps I made in a write up. It's been hard to make the time lately.
If it's only the former then you can use the valve I listed earlier in the thread to swap in and have the system up and running again.
I have pictures I took at the time I repaired mine. I will try to make some time to post the steps I made in a write up. It's been hard to make the time lately.
02-19-14, 06:58 PM
#63
Lexus Champion
lol freezing? it's 15 in chicago next week, i love it when floridians and californians complain about weather, no offense, just find it really amusing lol
02-19-14, 07:30 PM
#64
Honestly as a Floridian who has lived in California and visited elsewhere in truly freezing cold weather... I have to agree. 60's-70's isn't really "cold". Nice and cool yes but not certainly not freezing. Personally I like comfortably chilly weather but everyone has their own tolerance level.
03-17-14, 04:02 PM
#65
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This is DIY #47 since 2003. Hell I've saved everyone so much money you can afford to give a little bit back. 
This one you are gonna love...... $350 replacement part we are going to fix for $20 or so. 
We've all seen this before.......
For this little bugger here.........
What we want......... MOTORCRAFT YG-368 Heater Control Valve
Price we pay......... $16.50 to $19.50
What it looks like......
While it is true that this is not a right angle valve like the OEM, it is also not a $350 part. It changes nothing except that the hose moves slightly to accommodate the new input angle.
What I did was go looking for a self contained heater control valve. This means that it has both the valve, AND the vacuum canister on one frame. This keeps you from having to spend the REST OF YOUR LIFE trying to make the heater control valve and the vac canister actually work properly while you have duct taped the two a certain length apart to try and make them move just enough to open and close........ yeah F that, right? This Motorcraft unit is self contained vac AND valve in one. All you have to do is mount it on the old heater core valve's frame and hook it up!
The old valve comes of with two phillips screws and a 10mm bolt. This will separate the frame seen above in two pieces as the top lifts off that has the vac canister mounted to it. You still have plenty of room to mount the new valve on the half frame left over AND you can use one of the existing phillips screw holes on the frame to do so! The new valve comes with 4 mounting holes to choose from.
The swap is SO GRAVY you should be able to do it in about 15 minutes TOPS. Just unclamp the hoses and pull the vac line off the canister, then two 10mm bolts hold the heater core frame assembly photographed above from the body of the car. Then two phillips and a 10mm to split the frame. Then at least one phillips back in the new control valve to hold it to the frame, mount the frame back in and connect the hoses! (don't forget the vac line!)
SUPER GRAVY JOB and you have just fixed the heater valve that keeps hot air out in the summer and lets warm air in during the winter.
All for $20 and 20 minutes! Enjoy! Another O.L.T. DIY.............
This one you are gonna love...... $350 replacement part we are going to fix for $20 or so. We've all seen this before.......
For this little bugger here.........
What we want......... MOTORCRAFT YG-368 Heater Control Valve
Price we pay......... $16.50 to $19.50
What it looks like......
While it is true that this is not a right angle valve like the OEM, it is also not a $350 part.
It changes nothing except that the hose moves slightly to accommodate the new input angle.What I did was go looking for a self contained heater control valve. This means that it has both the valve, AND the vacuum canister on one frame. This keeps you from having to spend the REST OF YOUR LIFE trying to make the heater control valve and the vac canister actually work properly while you have duct taped the two a certain length apart to try and make them move just enough to open and close........ yeah F that, right? This Motorcraft unit is self contained vac AND valve in one.
All you have to do is mount it on the old heater core valve's frame and hook it up!The old valve comes of with two phillips screws and a 10mm bolt. This will separate the frame seen above in two pieces as the top lifts off that has the vac canister mounted to it. You still have plenty of room to mount the new valve on the half frame left over AND you can use one of the existing phillips screw holes on the frame to do so!
The new valve comes with 4 mounting holes to choose from.The swap is SO GRAVY you should be able to do it in about 15 minutes TOPS. Just unclamp the hoses and pull the vac line off the canister, then two 10mm bolts hold the heater core frame assembly photographed above from the body of the car. Then two phillips and a 10mm to split the frame. Then at least one phillips back in the new control valve to hold it to the frame, mount the frame back in and connect the hoses! (don't forget the vac line!)
SUPER GRAVY JOB and you have just fixed the heater valve that keeps hot air out in the summer and lets warm air in during the winter.
All for $20 and 20 minutes!
Enjoy! Another O.L.T. DIY.............
04-21-14, 05:32 AM
#66
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Control Valve working but still no heat
My heater control valve works because I can switch out the vacuum hoses and get heat. But it appears that the solenoid valve is not switching the vacuum to the heater valve when asked to do so.
Does any one have a fix for this or a link where I can look for more diagnosis? OLT?
JRT
Does any one have a fix for this or a link where I can look for more diagnosis? OLT?
JRT
06-17-14, 06:42 PM
#67
I forgot to post these pictures of my Everco #74636 heater control valve installation from late last year.
I'll add some captions. Detailed here is a comparison on the OEM SC300/400 valve and the Everco model, comparison of the two control arms, an image of the OEM SC arm swapped onto the Everco valve, Dremel modification needed to the non-mounting side and the new valve installed on the heater control assembly.
I'll add some captions. Detailed here is a comparison on the OEM SC300/400 valve and the Everco model, comparison of the two control arms, an image of the OEM SC arm swapped onto the Everco valve, Dremel modification needed to the non-mounting side and the new valve installed on the heater control assembly.
12-03-15, 09:04 PM
#71
Driver School Candidate
Motorcraft Brand (OLT Option)
O'Reilly Auto Parts Motorcraft YG368
4Seasons Brand (OLT Option)
AutoZone Everco 5970 or Everco 74858
O'Reilly Auto Parts Murray 74858
4Seasons Brand (KahnBB6 Option)
O'Reilly Auto Parts Murray 74636
Autozone Everco 74636
O'Reilly Auto Parts Motorcraft YG368
4Seasons Brand (OLT Option)
AutoZone Everco 5970 or Everco 74858
O'Reilly Auto Parts Murray 74858
4Seasons Brand (KahnBB6 Option)
O'Reilly Auto Parts Murray 74636
Autozone Everco 74636
12-04-15, 01:34 PM
#72
Add this one to the list. Bolt on. Metal construction. After my Ford one **** the bed and started leaking I haven't tuned back.
VOLVO HEATER CONTROL VALVE OE# 1259327
If its good enough for an old skool Volvo, it's good enough for me!
No need for arm flipping either.
VOLVO HEATER CONTROL VALVE OE# 1259327
If its good enough for an old skool Volvo, it's good enough for me!
No need for arm flipping either.
10-26-16, 07:24 PM
#74
Mine looks nothing like that one. If you look up "1259327" on eBay you'll see the metal ones I'm talking about. I'm sure some are plastic but the ebay images show a ton that are metal construction. I'm sure plastic is fine for most people. In my particular application, I have an S366 which has a particularly long hot side combined with a 4" down pipe that barely clears the cyl 6 runner and firewall so that heater valve gets toasty.
It requires disassembly of the factory valve to extract the vacuum solenoid. Otherwise, it's plug and play. The ports are the same sizes as OEM.
It requires disassembly of the factory valve to extract the vacuum solenoid. Otherwise, it's plug and play. The ports are the same sizes as OEM.
Last edited by INTIMAZY; 10-26-16 at 07:27 PM.
11-21-16, 01:48 PM
#75
Does anybody have any pics of this replacement part installed on their car. I dont have the factory unit anymore and i purchased the part OLT recommmended yg-368 but im not sure where to hook up the vaccum source from. thanks in advance.
Last edited by tjmhillz; 11-21-16 at 01:57 PM.