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Another O. L. T. DIY - In depth with the heater core control valve

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Old 08-07-11, 08:04 PM   #16
O. L. T.
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Plenty of drawbacks to not being about to regulate your heater core. The most immediate one being ten degrees cooler out the dash vents with it shut off and the AC on.
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Old 08-14-11, 03:05 PM   #17
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Excellent! I wasn't going to deal with this for another couple of months but now that I've seen this I'm going to take care of it right now! Thanks a lot!
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Old 08-16-11, 08:06 AM   #18
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Lee, I was using one of those as well with no issues, but decided to try reinstalling a valve to try for colder AC. Now I have a new valve, but the AC does not blow any colder. I think if you see a 10 temp difference with the valve installed you have blend door issues.
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Old 08-16-11, 05:24 PM   #19
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Available on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-YG3.../dp/B000C5G04S
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Old 08-28-11, 01:23 PM   #20
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While searching, I just came across with this thread.
Thanks OLT. You did it again!
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Old 08-28-11, 05:55 PM   #21
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The A/C is as cool as it was with the valve. No idea why. What are the other drawbacks O.L.T.?
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Old 10-22-11, 03:07 PM   #22
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Anybody have a picture of how their's looks after the install?
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Old 10-27-11, 03:48 PM   #23
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What do you do with the little electrical piece and plug?
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Old 10-29-11, 04:46 PM   #24
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Bought one today at Autozone Everco brand made in Mexico. $18.99 and tax
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Old 10-30-11, 10:03 AM   #25
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Going to share my experience in case it happens to someone else. I put my first one and thought it leaked. It looked like it was dripping from the casing around one of the screw holes. No big deal, cheap part I'll just get another one. When I put the new one on it appeared to be leaking as well. The chances of getting two defective parts from two different places was pretty slim so I looked a little harder. Turned out the bottom of the coolant hosed was deformed and wouldn't fit flat up against the new part. I cut less than an inch off the bottom and used a different hose clamp. No leaks!


On a side note somehow before/during I started messing with everything I dropped the short hose and one of my canister lines had come off. That left me looking at two long lines and no short one wondering how I had messed this up.
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Old 10-30-11, 02:48 PM   #26
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Please post a pic. after completed.
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Carbing strut tower brace front.
Rear custom made strut tower brace.
Sunroof delete and A.C. delete.
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Old 11-01-11, 03:26 PM   #27
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Apparently to answer my question a couple of post back, yes you retain the elec. solenoid and plug, as the vacumn line from the rear of the intake would have vacumn all the time on the new valve without the elec. switch. My car is A.C. delete, so I just ended up using the orig elbow with valve in it which will be opened and closed by hand in spring and fall. Im glad I investigated this thanks to OLT. If you use the Motocraft one youll need a 90 degree connector to add to the end of the long heater hose.
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Carbing strut tower brace front.
Rear custom made strut tower brace.
Sunroof delete and A.C. delete.
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Old 11-01-11, 08:38 PM   #28
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Just saw this, good info man.
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Old 12-27-11, 09:44 PM   #29
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i check out the parts on ebay it says not compatible with 92 sc400 is it true it get 28 degree in the morning so if it work ill buy it asap
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Old 12-28-11, 07:10 AM   #30
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I tried this fix and it somewhat works...

Why somewhat?

The valve arm opened in the opposite way on the Ford piece.
OEM valve opens when it senses vacuum. The Ford valve opens when vacuum stops.
I did get it to work by flipping the arm on the Ford piece to the opposite side and used the OEM arm plus a random screw as a new "arm."
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Old 12-28-11, 07:10 AM
 
 
 
 
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