Lee, I was using one of those as well with no issues, but decided to try reinstalling a valve to try for colder AC. Now I have a new valve, but the AC does not blow any colder. I think if you see a 10° temp difference with the valve installed you have blend door issues.
Going to share my experience in case it happens to someone else. I put my first one and thought it leaked. It looked like it was dripping from the casing around one of the screw holes. No big deal, cheap part I'll just get another one. When I put the new one on it appeared to be leaking as well. The chances of getting two defective parts from two different places was pretty slim so I looked a little harder. Turned out the bottom of the coolant hosed was deformed and wouldn't fit flat up against the new part. I cut less than an inch off the bottom and used a different hose clamp. No leaks!
On a side note somehow before/during I started messing with everything I dropped the short hose and one of my canister lines had come off. That left me looking at two long lines and no short one wondering how I had messed this up.
Apparently to answer my question a couple of post back, yes you retain the elec. solenoid and plug, as the vacumn line from the rear of the intake would have vacumn all the time on the new valve without the elec. switch. My car is A.C. delete, so I just ended up using the orig elbow with valve in it which will be opened and closed by hand in spring and fall. Im glad I investigated this thanks to OLT. If you use the Motocraft one youll need a 90 degree connector to add to the end of the long heater hose.
The valve arm opened in the opposite way on the Ford piece.
OEM valve opens when it senses vacuum. The Ford valve opens when vacuum stops.
I did get it to work by flipping the arm on the Ford piece to the opposite side and used the OEM arm plus a random screw as a new "arm."
Daytona Blue 350Z (VQ-35DERevup)
Imperial Blue Trailblazer SS (LS2)
Royal Jade Pearl SC300 (2JZ-GE+W58 --> 1JZ-GTE+R154) CT12A twin turbo @23psi --> TO4S 60-1 P-trim T4 .70 A/R @ 21psi
AEMv2/BC272/SP-QSV/Kaaz SQ-LSD/LQ9coils/water-meth/4"single--- build in progress
Originally Posted by ajmccarrel
Are you one of those annoying flamers that always thinks the answer to everything is a 2JZ swap?