any one using borgwarner s366
03-23-12, 04:33 AM
#47
gte & na-t
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Soarer13oy,
Call racepart ask for Rob, tell him what turbo you have and he will get you the correct fittings that you need , he knows alot of BW Turbo accessories and what you need to make it work.
Call racepart ask for Rob, tell him what turbo you have and he will get you the correct fittings that you need , he knows alot of BW Turbo accessories and what you need to make it work.
03-24-12, 06:13 AM
#51
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ltech-e85.html
Thats a link to my "build" thread. I'm currently rocking a 366. I've built, repaired, used and sold BW turbos since they were only known as Schwitzer. They are some of the most robust and mechanically simple turbos on the market.
As far as oiling is concerned, with the exception of ball bearing turbos, always reference the physical oil inlet first to gauge what size hose/fittings are required. The 300 series turbos have 1/4 npt inlet. I've ran these turbos (many) years ago with the suggested -4 line against better judgement only to tear the turbo down to find the shaft blue as hell and coking on the rear bearing and labyrinth seal. After changing the feed to a -6 the next tear down was nearly brand new with no signs of overheating. I've had similar experiences with the s200 series as well.
Keep in mind, much of this is dependent on how the turbo is being used. If your running 8psi with low EGT's and good fuel then -4 will probably be fine. But if you intend to push the unit like it was made for, -6 feed, -10 drain .
Thats a link to my "build" thread. I'm currently rocking a 366. I've built, repaired, used and sold BW turbos since they were only known as Schwitzer. They are some of the most robust and mechanically simple turbos on the market.
As far as oiling is concerned, with the exception of ball bearing turbos, always reference the physical oil inlet first to gauge what size hose/fittings are required. The 300 series turbos have 1/4 npt inlet. I've ran these turbos (many) years ago with the suggested -4 line against better judgement only to tear the turbo down to find the shaft blue as hell and coking on the rear bearing and labyrinth seal. After changing the feed to a -6 the next tear down was nearly brand new with no signs of overheating. I've had similar experiences with the s200 series as well.
Keep in mind, much of this is dependent on how the turbo is being used. If your running 8psi with low EGT's and good fuel then -4 will probably be fine. But if you intend to push the unit like it was made for, -6 feed, -10 drain .
03-31-12, 09:43 AM
#52
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does anyone know the correct npt fitting to fit in this? Ive gotten a 1/4npt and 1/8npt and theyre both too small. Im thinking 1/2npt?
Last edited by soarer13oy; 03-31-12 at 09:48 AM.
07-03-12, 11:09 PM
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Here is mine in my IS...
I ran a -3 feed line as Borg Warner instructs to do so... if I remember right I used a 1/4 npt to -3 90 degree elbow on the turbo and had my feed line made at a local hose and fittings hydraulic shop.
07-05-12, 01:45 PM
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run -4!!!!!!! i been working on a friends car that has -3 for about a year and hes kind of a worry wart and makes me rip into his turbo every 4-5 months and his rear bearing on the hot side is always slightly discolored at first i thought maybe hes shutting down hot or something.
so we installed a turbo timer set for 30 seconds and i told him to take it easy after going WOT, the last time i ripped into recently it was still slightly discolored im starting to think its the -3 line isnt pumping enough oil to keep that thing cool enough.
on another note make sure the oil inlet is straight up as possible its only a gravity drain and if it cant drain fast enough it will push out the seals, iirc the borg warner manual says 15-17 degrees MAX if you cant get it perfectly vertical
so we installed a turbo timer set for 30 seconds and i told him to take it easy after going WOT, the last time i ripped into recently it was still slightly discolored im starting to think its the -3 line isnt pumping enough oil to keep that thing cool enough.
on another note make sure the oil inlet is straight up as possible its only a gravity drain and if it cant drain fast enough it will push out the seals, iirc the borg warner manual says 15-17 degrees MAX if you cant get it perfectly vertical
Last edited by 1JZPWRD; 07-06-12 at 08:09 AM.
07-06-12, 08:10 AM
#60
1JZ Single SC400
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run -4!!!!!!! i been working on a friends car that has -3 for about a year and hes kind of a worry wart and makes me rip into his turbo every 4-5 months and his rear bearing on the hot side is always slightly discolored at first i thought maybe hes shutting down hot or something.
so we installed a turbo timer set for 30 seconds and i told him to take it easy after going WOT, the last time i ripped into recently it was still slightly discolored im starting to think its the -3 line isnt pumping enough oil to keep that thing cool enough.
on another note make sure the oil inlet is straight up as possible its only a gravity drain and if it cant drain fast enough it will push out the seals, iirc the borg warner manual says 15-17 degrees MAX if you cant get it perfectly vertical
so we installed a turbo timer set for 30 seconds and i told him to take it easy after going WOT, the last time i ripped into recently it was still slightly discolored im starting to think its the -3 line isnt pumping enough oil to keep that thing cool enough.
on another note make sure the oil inlet is straight up as possible its only a gravity drain and if it cant drain fast enough it will push out the seals, iirc the borg warner manual says 15-17 degrees MAX if you cant get it perfectly vertical
I also have a HKS turbo timer, set at 1 minute also, if that matters.