scfou

iTrader: (3)

I came real close to someone doing a r154 on a sc400, but, it's behind a 2jz-gte. Therefore, that would probably not help too much on what some of the parts I may need.

I've heard so far that 1jz flywheel will bolt a r154 tranny to a 1uz, but the question is whether or not the vvti 1uz bell housing will be the same as the non-vvti 1uz housing. Will I have to go through what redphonix did on the clutch line or will I get away with the factory fork setup? Where do I get the right shafts and what shafts do I need? I know I will need mk3 parts such as the clutch pedal/line, clutch cylinder, but those are easy for me to install as I've done it once before on a sc300, just the pedals and not the actual swap though. I believe I also read that I must use the toyota soarer r154 tranny so that the shifter lines up correctly.

But in any case, I feel quite confident this may work after cartmill's brave heart of getting rid of the cel light on his beautiful silver 98sc300 5spd. I don't care too much about the cruise function so that won't get in the way. Mainly, I'm trying to find out what type of parts I need for this unique swap. I plan to keep the existing pumpkin but what shafts do I need? Care to chime in anyone?

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

Whoa. A 1jz flywheel will NOT bolt up to the 1uz. The factory fork setup will NOT work with an OEM 1uz bellhousing. You do NOT want to use MKIII pedals. You need a manual SC300 driveshaft. You definitely need to do some proper research first though. It seems that you have stumbled upon a lot of misinformation.

P.S. Sorry but I had to stress the "NOT" word lol.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

there was never a 5 speed 1uz car, so there's no OEM 5 speed stuff that works with it.

just read through redpheonix's threads, buy the quantum auto swap stuff, buy the driftmotion swap stuff, keep your old auto trans for the valves and such (so you can get the CEL off), and dominate.

scfou

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the responses. I will continue to research on this matter. I also found this:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-swap-pix.html

which does help a little. And yes BD, I do need an adapter plate customized to mate the 1uz flywheel with the r154. Don't know what I was talking about when I said the 1jz flywheel would work . On the drive shaft part, besides just a 5spd sc300 drive shaft, I think I need part of it from a mkiii, correct me if I'm wrong though. And CM, thanks for the references from redphoenix.

88supramki

you will need the front half from a Turbo MKIII driveshaft

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

Whoops yea mkiii front. Sorry I forgot you said R154 not W58.

scfou

iTrader: (3)

I remember that's what I saw. So if I have the front half of the mkiii and the rest of the sc300 5spd shaft, that should be it in terms of the shaft issues. Thanks 88.

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

One important thing though. If you don't use the Quantum kit that utilizes a Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing and decide to instead use a kit like the one in the link you posted, do not use a Howe bearing. Instead use the quarter master unit of the same spec. Just FYI to save you from the universal fate of Howe bearing users.

EDIT: BTW I hope you go through with it. I know I would love to have a VVT-I 1UZ.

scfou

iTrader: (3)

tell me about it! I can so picture my vvti 1uz doing low azz 14's or possibly hi azz 13's with a manual in place.

Has anyone thought of this or even know about this: My auto is an a650e and I'm wondering if the bell housing will mate with a r154 tranny. I'm also a little concerned on whether the customized adapter plate will mate the a650e bellhousing onto the r154.

scfou

iTrader: (3)

Just wanted to mention that I will be going with the w58 instead of the r154. The 154s are expensive, easily over a g, while the 58s are any where between $250-$800, huge difference! The reason I choose the r154 at first was because I was thinking no where did a 290hp engine ever mate with a w58, so wanted to be safe. But after hearing about the 58s supporting as high as 400rwhp, I don't think I'll ever come close to those numbers as I'm only shooting for 400crank. I plan to drop in headers (i sold my previous imf's), bfi, safc, and 75hp nitrous setup, and tune it to close to 400hp.

I'm just kicking myself for having sold my previous w58 conversion kit after finding no way to legally smog an obd2 manual swap. But after cartmill's instructions on how to bypass the cel I'm going for it again. The quantum kit for $1100 seems to be a bit expensive, no? I'm still trying to find out if I buy the kit piece by piece would it be cheaper.

Hopefully the swap will be as easy as redphoenix's. In the meantime I'm looking for parts so stay tuned. I think after the pedals/clutch gets installed, the rest of the tranny install should take no more than a day.

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

The Quantum kit is high quality stuff. If you try to piece together a kit for less then you'll undoubtedly end up with some sketchy modified 3s-gte flywheel and a sub-par clutch if you are trying to beat their price (unless you have some major hook-ups). Make sure you plan out your purchases properly and don't cheap out on important parts though. Otherwise you may find your expectations are not met because you sacrificed quality only to save a marginal amount.

account2x

iTrader: (5)

Three issues

a650e
1st 3.357
2nd 2.180
3rd 1.424

w58
1st 3.285:1
2nd 1.894:1
3rd 1.275:1

It makes sense the 4spd guys would want to swap in a 5spd manual but the a650e is more aggressive than the w58. I understand drivetrain loss from an automatic will be greater even so I would place money on a w58 swap being slower.

A 1UZ-FE VVT-i dynos around 240 stock and 270 with intake and exhaust. I do not believe you will be able to achieve 400hp without blowing up the engine.

Transmissions are rated by torque and not horsepower. A 1JZ is going to make less than torque than a 2JZ and a 1UZ more than a 2JZ. You will kill the transmission faster than the JZ guys would.

Lastly I have an almost complete W58 swap.

88supramki

so now that you're going to go with a W58, then you need a NON-Turbo MKIII front section drive shaft, or an SC300 5 speed front section drive shaft (most likely much harder to find).

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

Well the gearing difference is easily solved by swapping in a pre-98 rear end (definitely would be the smart thing to do when swapping in a W58/R154) which will make it much more aggressive than the stock transmission. The 1UZ is not going to be making nearly as much torque as the boosted JZ's are when they generally blow the W58.

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

Here I took the liberty of calculating the overall gear ratios of the A650E with 3.27 rear and the W58 with 3.92 rear.

A650E/3.27
1) 10.97739
2) 7.1286
3) 4.65648
4) 3.27
5) 2.46231


W58/3.92
1) 12.8772
2) 7.42448
3) 4.998
4) 3.92
5) 3.06936

You can argue the feasibility of swapping the rear end but if you are already doing a full trans swap then surely you can get 3.92 rear [which will cost you next to nothing] and install it.