navazsc3

iTrader: (3)

I have a 92 sc300, i recently swapped in a lower mileage 2jzge/r154 combo from an automatic 2jzge....when i turn the key,

1) I do not have power at the fuel pump
2) I do not have power at the starter
3) I have power(windows go up, radio works)
4) I have power at the fuse box, as well as the fuses/relays

here is the thing, i do not have a gauge cluster, i replaced it with a custom cluster made out of autometer gauges......

my hypothesis:
1) the cars factory alarm is interfering and cutting the power from the engine and fuel pump

my questions

1) Will a sc300 start with the gauge cluster not connected?

2) Can i disconnect the factory car alarm control module and have the car function normally?

3) The following picture shows my engine fuse box. I'm not sure what i'm pointing at, but it gets really hot( hot enough that i do not touch it for more than a second), while the other one(the identical part in the fuse box i'm not pointing at) does not get hot at all.
My question is what am i pointing at and is it normal to get hot?



thanks in advance, and yes i have searched

navazsc3

iTrader: (3)

bump-10 characters

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

Not sure on Question #1 or #2 but as far as the picture goes you're putting to a relay (EFI, Heater, Etc).

They get hot, it's normal (when in use).

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

i have the exact same problem dude. u'll have to add a wire from the ignition switch to the starter relay. or i think jumper 2 and 5 on the starter relay so u can start with the key. not sure as im still toying with it on my own swapped car. only difference. i have a 1jz.

no one on here seems to have done what i've done on here.

swapping a full manual swap into an automatic car and wrote down instructions for it, other than extending wires 18 inches.

navazsc3

iTrader: (3)

Thanks I will work on it tmr and report back

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

i'd like to see pics tho. never seen anyone use all autometer gauges before.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Get that multi-meter out and pray to god. This is why I don't mess with swaps someone else did.

You should re-wire the FP ECU to run at 12+v all the time. Then you can find where your ECU/FP switched power is at.

Then hook up a bunch of autometer guages cause hooking up 4 wires to the dash is pretty hard. Better rip it out and start from scratch!

navazsc3

iTrader: (3)

here you go, this is what i came up with.....tach, oil pressure, water temp, oil temp, boost + shift light behind the steering wheel on the left side....dont hate on the tach, i got it for $40 with the shift light





--sorry about the pics being different sizes--couldn't figure that one out

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

one thing i can say. u dont have to worry about Light Emitting Diode Needles lmao!

navazsc3

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I would of used my gauge cluster but half the needles didn't work and I got the gauges for a good deal.

BrittonJ85

Where you able to get your car started and if so what did you do?

Thanks!

navazsc3

iTrader: (3)

No, I bought a truck with a blown hg so the sc300 has to wait

navazsc3

iTrader: (3)

I stripped the car of all wiring and am just using the oem engine harness. I am making my own body harness-I started the engine but currently have a maf/tps problem. The car will start but will misfire and run rich. Going to test the tps/maf tomorrow