1jz swap question
#1
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1jz swap question
Ok so if the engine is from a mk3 supra and it comes with a supra harness what would be the easiest/cheapest ecu to use, a supra ecu or soarer ecu? Basically I know I'm going to have to pay for the harness conversion, but is there any advantage to having a soarer ecu over a jza70? TIA
#4
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best thing to do if its going into an SC is to use a full sc300 2jzge harness (already has right body plugs) and a 2jzgte ecu (much better than a 1jz ecu) and swap/extend the connectors that don't fit/reach or are different in the engine bay (depin 2jz connectors and pin into 1jz connectors). you will have to add the map sensor and IAT (takes 20 minutes) and the ignition wires to the 2jzge harness (rip off 1jz harness and extend) but thats really not very difficult.
either upgrade the injectors or use an safc to compensate in injector size difference, or maybe the ecu will just adjust depending on how close it is, have no idea what CC 1jz injectors are, thats the only part i dont know. good luck
either upgrade the injectors or use an safc to compensate in injector size difference, or maybe the ecu will just adjust depending on how close it is, have no idea what CC 1jz injectors are, thats the only part i dont know. good luck
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-03-11 at 10:33 AM.
#6
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uses larger injectors, they are much newer and plug into a stock USDM sc300 harness, just gotta wire up the missing parts like I said above, map, IAT, and ignition harness.
The 2jz ecu's also run sequential injection, while i think the 1jz uses inferior batch injection.
all the 1jz ecus are really old by now and chances are if it hasnt gone bad already it will soon and will need capacitor repair. Instead of throwing money at an old ecu and paying for a conversion harness, I would just buy the 2jzgte ecu for the same money and do the little bits of wiring above myself (I have already done all the wiring above when I went standalone and coil on plug on my 2jz na-t) you would have to do the same wiring basically, but you will have the 1jz harness to pull the ignition wires from instead of doing it from scratch. alternatively, you could also go the 2jz ecu route and have the harness done for you by tweak, you just tell him the parts you want to run and he will probably do what i described above for you.
The 2jz ecu's also run sequential injection, while i think the 1jz uses inferior batch injection.
all the 1jz ecus are really old by now and chances are if it hasnt gone bad already it will soon and will need capacitor repair. Instead of throwing money at an old ecu and paying for a conversion harness, I would just buy the 2jzgte ecu for the same money and do the little bits of wiring above myself (I have already done all the wiring above when I went standalone and coil on plug on my 2jz na-t) you would have to do the same wiring basically, but you will have the 1jz harness to pull the ignition wires from instead of doing it from scratch. alternatively, you could also go the 2jz ecu route and have the harness done for you by tweak, you just tell him the parts you want to run and he will probably do what i described above for you.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-03-11 at 01:48 PM.
#7
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Ahhhhh decided to just go na-t, 1jz swap is looking more confusing and expensive the more I research it lol. Appreciate the help though Time to start collecting na-t parts.....
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#8
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From what i can find about the conversion...
-2JZ ECU uses larger injectors in sequential control instead of the old batch fire method used on the 1JZ. This requires a little rewiring on the 1JZ harness to work
-USDM ECU requires a MAF to be installed or something to compensate for it (MAP ECU e.g.), but a JDM ECU doesn't need a MAF
-2JZ Rev limiter is lower than the 1JZ Rev limiter (i think by like 500 rpm). Doesn't seem like a huge issue if you are on stock cams
I don't know if fueling is an issue or if there are any performance gains or long term benefits.
#9
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Unless either of these ECU's were chippable, then it would be worth it. But they are not.
Other then that you trade Speed density for MAF (Gross), and you lose a bit of RPM.
It's not hard at all to do a 1jz swap.
You will be swimming in problems if you cheap out on the NA-T in any way, which coincidentally is way more expensive then a 1jz swap.
Plus, nothing sounds lamer then a 1" hole in your exhaust Called a "Wastegate" bypassing almost all the exhaust, to keep it at the 10psi you are limited to on a initial stock NA-T setup.
So if you are so inclined to NA-T at least route the Wastegate dump back into the exhaust. For the love of god.
/Rant.
Other then that you trade Speed density for MAF (Gross), and you lose a bit of RPM.
It's not hard at all to do a 1jz swap.
You will be swimming in problems if you cheap out on the NA-T in any way, which coincidentally is way more expensive then a 1jz swap.
Plus, nothing sounds lamer then a 1" hole in your exhaust Called a "Wastegate" bypassing almost all the exhaust, to keep it at the 10psi you are limited to on a initial stock NA-T setup.
So if you are so inclined to NA-T at least route the Wastegate dump back into the exhaust. For the love of god.
/Rant.
#10
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Unless either of these ECU's were chippable, then it would be worth it. But they are not.
Other then that you trade Speed density for MAF (Gross), and you lose a bit of RPM.
It's not hard at all to do a 1jz swap.
You will be swimming in problems if you cheap out on the NA-T in any way, which coincidentally is way more expensive then a 1jz swap.
Plus, nothing sounds lamer then a 1" hole in your exhaust Called a "Wastegate" bypassing almost all the exhaust, to keep it at the 10psi you are limited to on a initial stock NA-T setup.
So if you are so inclined to NA-T at least route the Wastegate dump back into the exhaust. For the love of god.
/Rant.
Other then that you trade Speed density for MAF (Gross), and you lose a bit of RPM.
It's not hard at all to do a 1jz swap.
You will be swimming in problems if you cheap out on the NA-T in any way, which coincidentally is way more expensive then a 1jz swap.
Plus, nothing sounds lamer then a 1" hole in your exhaust Called a "Wastegate" bypassing almost all the exhaust, to keep it at the 10psi you are limited to on a initial stock NA-T setup.
So if you are so inclined to NA-T at least route the Wastegate dump back into the exhaust. For the love of god.
/Rant.
I said the best is to use a JDM 2JZGTE ecu with the stock sc300 harness. all the harness is missing is the ignition wiring and the map and iat wiring.
The kicker is they are all JZ's they use more or less the same sensors maybe different connectors, swap em out with the 1jz harness, extend a few wires, and thats the best way to run your 1JZ. I dont know why this turned into a na-t discussion the wiring is the same for all 3 motors.
and it doesnt matter if its chippable people put down lots of HP on the GTE ecu. and if thats not good enough the best advantage of this setup is that you can upgrade to an aem with this harness plug and play. good luck finding ancient setups for a 1jz ecu or a patch harness to run a standalone later.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-03-11 at 08:05 PM.
#11
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to answer your question... look to find a soarer harness and ecu, easy. The benifit of the supra ecu VS. the soarer is the factory tune- supra was more sport.
To me cost effective is going na-t with a jdm gte ecu. Then again like Alisc3, I do all the work and have figured most of it out.
If you want easy, soarer harness and ecu, better is supra ecu (more work). Then again- you could also pay to have your supra harness modified to plug and play. Best of luck what ever you decide.
To me cost effective is going na-t with a jdm gte ecu. Then again like Alisc3, I do all the work and have figured most of it out.
If you want easy, soarer harness and ecu, better is supra ecu (more work). Then again- you could also pay to have your supra harness modified to plug and play. Best of luck what ever you decide.
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