how much whp can 2jzge handle stock
04-10-11, 01:49 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: ny
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how much whp can 2jzge handle stock
just got a 95 sc300. With thicker headgasket & ARP headstuds how much whp can a 2jzge handle for daily use,i would love to hit 450 to 500whp building on a tight budget, and what single turbo would b good for that set up
04-11-11, 02:40 AM
#3
I watched a MkIII Supra with a pre-VVTi 2JZ-GE SC300 motor and I think a 67 Turbo with more than 500hp to the wheels running hard all day on the road race course at the TX2K11 Houston Supra Nationals and I think this is the 3rd year he's run that car at the annual Houston Supra meet and I think he won a trophy at last year's Supra Nationals drag races with that same setup too...
So your goals don't seem unrealistic, assuming you have good compression and leakdown test results and the oil changes and other maintenace were kept up with properly.
The key to his particular build is that his formerly 7M-GTE Powered 1991 MkIII Turbo Supra already had a Turbo Cam Position Sensor and matching igniter and twin-fire factory "coil-packs" and other items that proved useful to his 2JZ-GET conversion and the car also came pre-wired with a factory turbo harness and factory turbo ems that already know what to do with boost so his swap/conversion was fairly easy.
I "think" that your version of the 2JZ-GE didn't get the "oil squirters" in the block for the extra oiling of the rods although I would still expect it to tolerate far more than your stated goals for a very long time but I haven't ever researched the SC version 2JZ's so I may be incorrect.
There will most certainly be CL members that will disagree with me on my next statement or who will say they've "been doing it for years with no problems", but in my personal opinion what I would NOT do is turbo a 15+ year old N/A daily driver car on a tight budget unless you have a reliable backup vehicle for WHEN things break on the modded car. Even on a not so tight budget things ARE going to go wrong and things ARE going to break. How many YEARS someone's been running their car with mods means nothing. How many MILES they've run that car on those mods and how HARD they push it and how often are what actually matters...
I've never turbo'd a N/A myself but I've owned a number of N/A and Turbo MkIII and TT-MkIV Supras and 2 stock IS300's and I've helped with a 2JZ-GTE swap into a MkIII Supra, among other projects, and I know someone who just did a TT "aristo swap" into their IS300 and then single'd it recently, and I've watched quite a few friends try to increase their power or add a turbo to a N/A Toyota/Lexus vehicle over the past 15 years and every time they cut corners because of a tight budget or they decide to go with cheaper parts just to save a few bucks it ALWAYS comes back to bite 'em in the azz, ESPECIALLY when it was their daily driver and/or their ONLY car...
As for what turbo to go with, it's not an exact match but as a basic reference a MkIV-TT Supra that's "gone single" with a 61 turbo usually makes your power goal WITHOUT a boost controller and does a good bit more when you add a decent electronic boost controller, and a 67 turbo easily does a lot more than your desired goal so I would expect similar results from a pre-VVT-i SC300 2JZ-GE motor with proper ems and fuel and tuning and instrumentation.
In comparison on the flip side of that equation, I've watched someone try to put a 67 Turbo on a 93 N/A 2JZ-GE MkIV Supra which I'd always been told was essentially the same engine as that era SC300 motor and by the time he was done with his build and trying to tune it on the dyno my BPU+ TT-MkIV Supra put down 375whp on the dyno-dynamics mobile dyno that shop had with NO boost controller versus the 315whp his fairly big Turbo'd N/A did that same day on that same dyno after a lot of tuning work with lots of dyno pulls and numerous attempts to match or beat my mildly modded TT Supra's one and only pull on that dyno that day...
Then another friend and I both bought actual stock 93TT Auto Supras with similar mileage (130k-140k) that had both been daily driver cars all their lives and had a good bit of visible wear and tear and both needed some work but they ran and drove normally as-is. Not long after that I just BPU'd mine but he single'd his with a 61 because he wanted at least 400-450whp. My BPU 93TT with just an expensive name-brand intercooler kit and name-brand upgraded exhaust system did 370whp with NO boost controller and his single'd Supra with pieced together intercooler kit and massive home-made exhaust and stand-alone ems only did 360whp. Needless to say he wasn't very happy... I think he finally got it to cross the 400hp point and then my 98 TT 6-Speed Supra with just intercooler and exhaust and clutch upgrades and the boost controller turned off still beat him on its' factory turbos...
So there's no magic formula for power and no guarantee that you'll get x power for x dollars spent just because it's a 2JZ engine. Choices of supporting parts and the quality of them make a HUGE difference.
As broda805 stated, there are plenty of threads about this already.
Do some searching, find a build thread you think you like that achieved your goals, find out if it's still running and how many miles it's run for since it was modded, and if you like what you read about it then give it a shot. I'd strongly recommend having a cheap long--term alternate means of transportation available when you decide to turbo your N/A, but again that's just my opinion.
Best of luck to you no matter what you decide!
So your goals don't seem unrealistic, assuming you have good compression and leakdown test results and the oil changes and other maintenace were kept up with properly.
The key to his particular build is that his formerly 7M-GTE Powered 1991 MkIII Turbo Supra already had a Turbo Cam Position Sensor and matching igniter and twin-fire factory "coil-packs" and other items that proved useful to his 2JZ-GET conversion and the car also came pre-wired with a factory turbo harness and factory turbo ems that already know what to do with boost so his swap/conversion was fairly easy.
I "think" that your version of the 2JZ-GE didn't get the "oil squirters" in the block for the extra oiling of the rods although I would still expect it to tolerate far more than your stated goals for a very long time but I haven't ever researched the SC version 2JZ's so I may be incorrect.
There will most certainly be CL members that will disagree with me on my next statement or who will say they've "been doing it for years with no problems", but in my personal opinion what I would NOT do is turbo a 15+ year old N/A daily driver car on a tight budget unless you have a reliable backup vehicle for WHEN things break on the modded car. Even on a not so tight budget things ARE going to go wrong and things ARE going to break. How many YEARS someone's been running their car with mods means nothing. How many MILES they've run that car on those mods and how HARD they push it and how often are what actually matters...
I've never turbo'd a N/A myself but I've owned a number of N/A and Turbo MkIII and TT-MkIV Supras and 2 stock IS300's and I've helped with a 2JZ-GTE swap into a MkIII Supra, among other projects, and I know someone who just did a TT "aristo swap" into their IS300 and then single'd it recently, and I've watched quite a few friends try to increase their power or add a turbo to a N/A Toyota/Lexus vehicle over the past 15 years and every time they cut corners because of a tight budget or they decide to go with cheaper parts just to save a few bucks it ALWAYS comes back to bite 'em in the azz, ESPECIALLY when it was their daily driver and/or their ONLY car...
As for what turbo to go with, it's not an exact match but as a basic reference a MkIV-TT Supra that's "gone single" with a 61 turbo usually makes your power goal WITHOUT a boost controller and does a good bit more when you add a decent electronic boost controller, and a 67 turbo easily does a lot more than your desired goal so I would expect similar results from a pre-VVT-i SC300 2JZ-GE motor with proper ems and fuel and tuning and instrumentation.
In comparison on the flip side of that equation, I've watched someone try to put a 67 Turbo on a 93 N/A 2JZ-GE MkIV Supra which I'd always been told was essentially the same engine as that era SC300 motor and by the time he was done with his build and trying to tune it on the dyno my BPU+ TT-MkIV Supra put down 375whp on the dyno-dynamics mobile dyno that shop had with NO boost controller versus the 315whp his fairly big Turbo'd N/A did that same day on that same dyno after a lot of tuning work with lots of dyno pulls and numerous attempts to match or beat my mildly modded TT Supra's one and only pull on that dyno that day...
Then another friend and I both bought actual stock 93TT Auto Supras with similar mileage (130k-140k) that had both been daily driver cars all their lives and had a good bit of visible wear and tear and both needed some work but they ran and drove normally as-is. Not long after that I just BPU'd mine but he single'd his with a 61 because he wanted at least 400-450whp. My BPU 93TT with just an expensive name-brand intercooler kit and name-brand upgraded exhaust system did 370whp with NO boost controller and his single'd Supra with pieced together intercooler kit and massive home-made exhaust and stand-alone ems only did 360whp. Needless to say he wasn't very happy... I think he finally got it to cross the 400hp point and then my 98 TT 6-Speed Supra with just intercooler and exhaust and clutch upgrades and the boost controller turned off still beat him on its' factory turbos...
So there's no magic formula for power and no guarantee that you'll get x power for x dollars spent just because it's a 2JZ engine. Choices of supporting parts and the quality of them make a HUGE difference.
As broda805 stated, there are plenty of threads about this already.
Do some searching, find a build thread you think you like that achieved your goals, find out if it's still running and how many miles it's run for since it was modded, and if you like what you read about it then give it a shot. I'd strongly recommend having a cheap long--term alternate means of transportation available when you decide to turbo your N/A, but again that's just my opinion.
Best of luck to you no matter what you decide!
Last edited by zukikat; 04-11-11 at 03:14 AM.
04-11-11, 04:23 AM
#4
if the ge is healthy giving healthy compression numbers then the age of the block doesnt matter .. how its maintained going forward does matter... im at 600 rwhp on pump gas stock original block 14 yrs old been boosted 3.5 yrs and although i dont consistently drive like i stole it , i do drive it hard with extended 170mph hwy pulls and short street pulls its running perfectly fine.. i dont care if its a new gte block , rebuilt ge block or built motor , if its not maintained and if its abused at every corner , it will let loose..
i change oil every 1k to 1.5k miles and only use mobil 1 15w50 and thats the key.. i have personally seen more gte setups go bye bye compared to ge setups but thats another topic.. if you plan on abusing your setup almost daily or dont know when to walk away from racing , then YOU MUST build your setup and tune setup accordingly.. imo its a different build from just a street car with some spirited driving
i change oil every 1k to 1.5k miles and only use mobil 1 15w50 and thats the key.. i have personally seen more gte setups go bye bye compared to ge setups but thats another topic.. if you plan on abusing your setup almost daily or dont know when to walk away from racing , then YOU MUST build your setup and tune setup accordingly.. imo its a different build from just a street car with some spirited driving
04-11-11, 06:46 PM
#6
Stock block with headgasket and arp headstuds is good to 1000 hp as i recall. Not saying all the time, but ive seen and heard of it a bunch. You have to worry about tranny, clutch and diff before you have to worry about the engine. YMMV, but dont sweat 500hp.
Trending Topics
04-12-11, 05:03 AM
#8
Based on your stated power goals, as others have mentionned the tranny and clutch are probably your weakest links.
I was under the impression from a friend who recently sold his stock 5-Speed 93 SC300 that they got a W58 manual tranny like the Non-Turbo Supras did.
The W58 5-speed manual tranny is a very solid, durable, smooth, and rediculously reliable tranny that's usually good for putting about double whatever the original vehicle's factory crank hp/tq numbers are to the wheels for a while but it's a 30+ year old design at this point with minor revisions over the years and if your goal is 500hp, they just don't hold up to it all that long.
The A340 series 4-speed auto's are just as old and in about the same boat for whp, even the A340 auto's out of the two generations of factory -GTE Supras which did get slightly beefier clutch packs but without some major upgrades to their internals (Boost Logic Supra Auto Tranny Upgrade, nice and very worth it but cha-ching!!!) neither of those tranny's (A340 or W58) will hold up anywhere near as well as the R154 MkIII 7M-GTE/1JZ-GTE 5-Speed Manual tranny which WILL bolt up to a 2JZ block off a 1JZ engine or with a 1JZ bell hosing swap to the ones off the 7M-GTE engines and the R154 costs a LOT less than trying to do a V160 6-Speed swap for sure. You'll have to fab up a driveshaft for that swap but a good machine shop should be able to build you one using the tranny's output flange/u-joint section and the SC's diff input flange/u-joint section and a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft usually helps with performance anyway.
It depends on which vehicle the W58 or A340 tranny came from as to what internal revisions it got over the years and what whp/tq it'll actually hold up to, usually about double the original vehicle's factory crank hp/tq numbers or a little less but if you push it THAT hard it's not going to last long...
Once again it all comes down to budgets and "doing it right", especially for a DD use car.
I was under the impression from a friend who recently sold his stock 5-Speed 93 SC300 that they got a W58 manual tranny like the Non-Turbo Supras did.
The W58 5-speed manual tranny is a very solid, durable, smooth, and rediculously reliable tranny that's usually good for putting about double whatever the original vehicle's factory crank hp/tq numbers are to the wheels for a while but it's a 30+ year old design at this point with minor revisions over the years and if your goal is 500hp, they just don't hold up to it all that long.
The A340 series 4-speed auto's are just as old and in about the same boat for whp, even the A340 auto's out of the two generations of factory -GTE Supras which did get slightly beefier clutch packs but without some major upgrades to their internals (Boost Logic Supra Auto Tranny Upgrade, nice and very worth it but cha-ching!!!) neither of those tranny's (A340 or W58) will hold up anywhere near as well as the R154 MkIII 7M-GTE/1JZ-GTE 5-Speed Manual tranny which WILL bolt up to a 2JZ block off a 1JZ engine or with a 1JZ bell hosing swap to the ones off the 7M-GTE engines and the R154 costs a LOT less than trying to do a V160 6-Speed swap for sure. You'll have to fab up a driveshaft for that swap but a good machine shop should be able to build you one using the tranny's output flange/u-joint section and the SC's diff input flange/u-joint section and a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft usually helps with performance anyway.
It depends on which vehicle the W58 or A340 tranny came from as to what internal revisions it got over the years and what whp/tq it'll actually hold up to, usually about double the original vehicle's factory crank hp/tq numbers or a little less but if you push it THAT hard it's not going to last long...
Once again it all comes down to budgets and "doing it right", especially for a DD use car.
04-12-11, 08:20 AM
#9
Based on your stated power goals, as others have mentionned the tranny and clutch are probably your weakest links.
I was under the impression from a friend who recently sold his stock 5-Speed 93 SC300 that they got a W58 manual tranny like the Non-Turbo Supras did.
The W58 5-speed manual tranny is a very solid, durable, smooth, and rediculously reliable tranny that's usually good for putting about double whatever the original vehicle's factory crank hp/tq numbers are to the wheels for a while but it's a 30+ year old design at this point with minor revisions over the years and if your goal is 500hp, they just don't hold up to it all that long.
The A340 series 4-speed auto's are just as old and in about the same boat for whp, even the A340 auto's out of the two generations of factory -GTE Supras which did get slightly beefier clutch packs but without some major upgrades to their internals (Boost Logic Supra Auto Tranny Upgrade, nice and very worth it but cha-ching!!!) neither of those tranny's (A340 or W58) will hold up anywhere near as well as the R154 MkIII 7M-GTE/1JZ-GTE 5-Speed Manual tranny which WILL bolt up to a 2JZ block off a 1JZ engine or with a 1JZ bell hosing swap to the ones off the 7M-GTE engines and the R154 costs a LOT less than trying to do a V160 6-Speed swap for sure. You'll have to fab up a driveshaft for that swap but a good machine shop should be able to build you one using the tranny's output flange/u-joint section and the SC's diff input flange/u-joint section and a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft usually helps with performance anyway.
It depends on which vehicle the W58 or A340 tranny came from as to what internal revisions it got over the years and what whp/tq it'll actually hold up to, usually about double the original vehicle's factory crank hp/tq numbers or a little less but if you push it THAT hard it's not going to last long...
Once again it all comes down to budgets and "doing it right", especially for a DD use car.
I was under the impression from a friend who recently sold his stock 5-Speed 93 SC300 that they got a W58 manual tranny like the Non-Turbo Supras did.
The W58 5-speed manual tranny is a very solid, durable, smooth, and rediculously reliable tranny that's usually good for putting about double whatever the original vehicle's factory crank hp/tq numbers are to the wheels for a while but it's a 30+ year old design at this point with minor revisions over the years and if your goal is 500hp, they just don't hold up to it all that long.
The A340 series 4-speed auto's are just as old and in about the same boat for whp, even the A340 auto's out of the two generations of factory -GTE Supras which did get slightly beefier clutch packs but without some major upgrades to their internals (Boost Logic Supra Auto Tranny Upgrade, nice and very worth it but cha-ching!!!) neither of those tranny's (A340 or W58) will hold up anywhere near as well as the R154 MkIII 7M-GTE/1JZ-GTE 5-Speed Manual tranny which WILL bolt up to a 2JZ block off a 1JZ engine or with a 1JZ bell hosing swap to the ones off the 7M-GTE engines and the R154 costs a LOT less than trying to do a V160 6-Speed swap for sure. You'll have to fab up a driveshaft for that swap but a good machine shop should be able to build you one using the tranny's output flange/u-joint section and the SC's diff input flange/u-joint section and a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft usually helps with performance anyway.
It depends on which vehicle the W58 or A340 tranny came from as to what internal revisions it got over the years and what whp/tq it'll actually hold up to, usually about double the original vehicle's factory crank hp/tq numbers or a little less but if you push it THAT hard it's not going to last long...
Once again it all comes down to budgets and "doing it right", especially for a DD use car.
Or a better question, is the difference in cost worth it due to not having to replace it again?
04-12-11, 06:51 PM
#11
At best, if youre lucky... a v160 swap will cost 5k... assuming you get lucky and find one cheap.
an r154 can be done for somewhere near 2k... if we are talking full swap as far as going from auto to manual. (ive priced it for myself and i can do it for this much...)
not including labor in either case.
an r154 can be done for somewhere near 2k... if we are talking full swap as far as going from auto to manual. (ive priced it for myself and i can do it for this much...)
not including labor in either case.
04-13-11, 09:27 PM
#12
Sounds pretty typical on pricing for both as I recall last time I looked into it although I suspect that $5k is more like if you get lucky and find a V160 dirt cheap and buy only an "adequate" or even a mediocre clutch and flywheel to put in it because the typical minimum clutch/flywheel setup for a V160 that you'd want to fool with is at least $1,500 if not more...
The last clutch I bought for a V160 cost me $3k just for the clutch/flywheel and installation hardware, NOT including any labor, and I chose that clutch because I didn't want to have to worry about it when the time came to install a big single... I think it's down to $2,600 now as the $3,200 triple-disc version got introduced about 6 months after I bought that twin-disc setup and I don't regret my choice for it one bit!
So basically you can probably get everything you need do the entire R154 swap for about what a decent V160 clutch (that's worth getting for above stock power/tq levels) would cost you before you spend even more money buy the V160 itself.
The biggest factors in the r154 swap are the cost of the 1JZ bell housing for bolting it to a 2JZ block instead of a 7M block, unless you happen to get the R154 out of a 1JZ-GTE MkIII, and what clutch you want to put in it, and how much a shop charges to fab up the driveshaft for the length and flanges you need for the swap. I don't know what "pedals" setups work in the SC as I'm fairly new to any actual hands-on time with the SC chassis itself and most of my experience thus far is with any gen of Supra, but I assume it's just a matter of getting the 3- pedal setup out of a SC300 5-Speed manual chassis, drilling out the clutch master firewall mounting holes, and swapping the assembly over like we do in the MkIII Supra 5-Speed conversions from the A340E auto's to the R154 5-Speeds, and there are probably pedal setups out of other cars that might work in the SC's as well...
Also note that the V160 is roughly a 3.13 rear end and it's specific to the V160 equipped TT Supras, whereas the R154 5-Speed came with either a 3.90ish LSD (87-88 Turbo) or a 3.73ish LSD (89-92 Turbo) in the U.S. Turbo MkIII Supras and a 4.10ish Torsen in the 1JZ-GTE MkIII Supras afaik so it's nowhere near as drastic a rear end gearing issue to go with an R154 in the SC's than it is to go with a V160 and end up needing to either rebuild your diff (which ain't cheap!) or track down a TT 6-Speed diff and half-shafts (different lengths from any other version of the diff!) from the rare 6-Speed TT Supras that'll probably add another $1,500 - $2k to the cost.
There's a mechanical cable versus electronic sensor issue for the speedo with the R154 swap into an SC afaik but there's obviously a simple solution as many people have done that swap already... I could do some digging and find the answer but it's not that critical at the moment...
The last clutch I bought for a V160 cost me $3k just for the clutch/flywheel and installation hardware, NOT including any labor, and I chose that clutch because I didn't want to have to worry about it when the time came to install a big single... I think it's down to $2,600 now as the $3,200 triple-disc version got introduced about 6 months after I bought that twin-disc setup and I don't regret my choice for it one bit!
So basically you can probably get everything you need do the entire R154 swap for about what a decent V160 clutch (that's worth getting for above stock power/tq levels) would cost you before you spend even more money buy the V160 itself.
The biggest factors in the r154 swap are the cost of the 1JZ bell housing for bolting it to a 2JZ block instead of a 7M block, unless you happen to get the R154 out of a 1JZ-GTE MkIII, and what clutch you want to put in it, and how much a shop charges to fab up the driveshaft for the length and flanges you need for the swap. I don't know what "pedals" setups work in the SC as I'm fairly new to any actual hands-on time with the SC chassis itself and most of my experience thus far is with any gen of Supra, but I assume it's just a matter of getting the 3- pedal setup out of a SC300 5-Speed manual chassis, drilling out the clutch master firewall mounting holes, and swapping the assembly over like we do in the MkIII Supra 5-Speed conversions from the A340E auto's to the R154 5-Speeds, and there are probably pedal setups out of other cars that might work in the SC's as well...
Also note that the V160 is roughly a 3.13 rear end and it's specific to the V160 equipped TT Supras, whereas the R154 5-Speed came with either a 3.90ish LSD (87-88 Turbo) or a 3.73ish LSD (89-92 Turbo) in the U.S. Turbo MkIII Supras and a 4.10ish Torsen in the 1JZ-GTE MkIII Supras afaik so it's nowhere near as drastic a rear end gearing issue to go with an R154 in the SC's than it is to go with a V160 and end up needing to either rebuild your diff (which ain't cheap!) or track down a TT 6-Speed diff and half-shafts (different lengths from any other version of the diff!) from the rare 6-Speed TT Supras that'll probably add another $1,500 - $2k to the cost.
There's a mechanical cable versus electronic sensor issue for the speedo with the R154 swap into an SC afaik but there's obviously a simple solution as many people have done that swap already... I could do some digging and find the answer but it's not that critical at the moment...
Last edited by zukikat; 04-13-11 at 09:41 PM.
04-14-11, 08:31 AM
#15
Sounds pretty typical on pricing for both as I recall last time I looked into it although I suspect that $5k is more like if you get lucky and find a V160 dirt cheap and buy only an "adequate" or even a mediocre clutch and flywheel to put in it because the typical minimum clutch/flywheel setup for a V160 that you'd want to fool with is at least $1,500 if not more...
The last clutch I bought for a V160 cost me $3k just for the clutch/flywheel and installation hardware, NOT including any labor, and I chose that clutch because I didn't want to have to worry about it when the time came to install a big single... I think it's down to $2,600 now as the $3,200 triple-disc version got introduced about 6 months after I bought that twin-disc setup and I don't regret my choice for it one bit!
So basically you can probably get everything you need do the entire R154 swap for about what a decent V160 clutch (that's worth getting for above stock power/tq levels) would cost you before you spend even more money buy the V160 itself.
The biggest factors in the r154 swap are the cost of the 1JZ bell housing for bolting it to a 2JZ block instead of a 7M block, unless you happen to get the R154 out of a 1JZ-GTE MkIII, and what clutch you want to put in it, and how much a shop charges to fab up the driveshaft for the length and flanges you need for the swap. I don't know what "pedals" setups work in the SC as I'm fairly new to any actual hands-on time with the SC chassis itself and most of my experience thus far is with any gen of Supra, but I assume it's just a matter of getting the 3- pedal setup out of a SC300 5-Speed manual chassis, drilling out the clutch master firewall mounting holes, and swapping the assembly over like we do in the MkIII Supra 5-Speed conversions from the A340E auto's to the R154 5-Speeds, and there are probably pedal setups out of other cars that might work in the SC's as well...
Also note that the V160 is roughly a 3.13 rear end and it's specific to the V160 equipped TT Supras, whereas the R154 5-Speed came with either a 3.90ish LSD (87-88 Turbo) or a 3.73ish LSD (89-92 Turbo) in the U.S. Turbo MkIII Supras and a 4.10ish Torsen in the 1JZ-GTE MkIII Supras afaik so it's nowhere near as drastic a rear end gearing issue to go with an R154 in the SC's than it is to go with a V160 and end up needing to either rebuild your diff (which ain't cheap!) or track down a TT 6-Speed diff and half-shafts (different lengths from any other version of the diff!) from the rare 6-Speed TT Supras that'll probably add another $1,500 - $2k to the cost.
There's a mechanical cable versus electronic sensor issue for the speedo with the R154 swap into an SC afaik but there's obviously a simple solution as many people have done that swap already... I could do some digging and find the answer but it's not that critical at the moment...
The last clutch I bought for a V160 cost me $3k just for the clutch/flywheel and installation hardware, NOT including any labor, and I chose that clutch because I didn't want to have to worry about it when the time came to install a big single... I think it's down to $2,600 now as the $3,200 triple-disc version got introduced about 6 months after I bought that twin-disc setup and I don't regret my choice for it one bit!
So basically you can probably get everything you need do the entire R154 swap for about what a decent V160 clutch (that's worth getting for above stock power/tq levels) would cost you before you spend even more money buy the V160 itself.
The biggest factors in the r154 swap are the cost of the 1JZ bell housing for bolting it to a 2JZ block instead of a 7M block, unless you happen to get the R154 out of a 1JZ-GTE MkIII, and what clutch you want to put in it, and how much a shop charges to fab up the driveshaft for the length and flanges you need for the swap. I don't know what "pedals" setups work in the SC as I'm fairly new to any actual hands-on time with the SC chassis itself and most of my experience thus far is with any gen of Supra, but I assume it's just a matter of getting the 3- pedal setup out of a SC300 5-Speed manual chassis, drilling out the clutch master firewall mounting holes, and swapping the assembly over like we do in the MkIII Supra 5-Speed conversions from the A340E auto's to the R154 5-Speeds, and there are probably pedal setups out of other cars that might work in the SC's as well...
Also note that the V160 is roughly a 3.13 rear end and it's specific to the V160 equipped TT Supras, whereas the R154 5-Speed came with either a 3.90ish LSD (87-88 Turbo) or a 3.73ish LSD (89-92 Turbo) in the U.S. Turbo MkIII Supras and a 4.10ish Torsen in the 1JZ-GTE MkIII Supras afaik so it's nowhere near as drastic a rear end gearing issue to go with an R154 in the SC's than it is to go with a V160 and end up needing to either rebuild your diff (which ain't cheap!) or track down a TT 6-Speed diff and half-shafts (different lengths from any other version of the diff!) from the rare 6-Speed TT Supras that'll probably add another $1,500 - $2k to the cost.
There's a mechanical cable versus electronic sensor issue for the speedo with the R154 swap into an SC afaik but there's obviously a simple solution as many people have done that swap already... I could do some digging and find the answer but it's not that critical at the moment...
.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
codename30
Performance & Maintenance
3
11-12-08 02:37 PM
