blew the efi fuse agian,
04-07-11, 08:21 PM
#1
blew the efi fuse agian,
Alright I had this problem before link
Basic idea in that previous problem was I was leaving my driveway turned on the hids, efi fuse blew. My foglights had been wired to my highbeams for like a year and I removed them, put a new efi fuse and the car started and drove fine for a couple days
Tonight I was leaving campus and decided to floor it onto the highway. Engine cut off again, pulled the car over the side of the road. Bought 10 fuses blew 4 of them in a row. Left the car for like 45 minutes hoping the problem would go away long enough to get the car home. Blew 4 more fuses,
there has to be a short somewhere and honestly i've never checked for shorts and would like to know where to start and how to do it really, or maybe some tips to remedy my problem.
Ill check the wiring harness tomorrow to see if I chewed through them or something
ISSUE FIXED
O2 sensor wire melted and was touching the exhaust, new wires and 02 sensor no more blowing
Basic idea in that previous problem was I was leaving my driveway turned on the hids, efi fuse blew. My foglights had been wired to my highbeams for like a year and I removed them, put a new efi fuse and the car started and drove fine for a couple days
Tonight I was leaving campus and decided to floor it onto the highway. Engine cut off again, pulled the car over the side of the road. Bought 10 fuses blew 4 of them in a row. Left the car for like 45 minutes hoping the problem would go away long enough to get the car home. Blew 4 more fuses,
there has to be a short somewhere and honestly i've never checked for shorts and would like to know where to start and how to do it really, or maybe some tips to remedy my problem.
Ill check the wiring harness tomorrow to see if I chewed through them or something
ISSUE FIXED
O2 sensor wire melted and was touching the exhaust, new wires and 02 sensor no more blowing
Last edited by chnk; 07-01-13 at 09:10 PM.
04-07-11, 08:31 PM
#3
Idk thats gonna be the first thing I check tomorrow morning
But I would like to know where else to start with searching for a short
04-07-11, 08:45 PM
#4
well still your best bet is to check the harness if it was been touched by the tire. I tried that first and it still went through my wires and i wasn't even close to your height. Use pliers, flathead
Took me awhile to get it but you gotta get the job done.
Took me awhile to get it but you gotta get the job done.
04-08-11, 08:55 AM
#5
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The ECU circuit *should* always be energized, even with key off for memory purposes. I would go with sc300jz's suggestion first, then if everything looks good there, check all of your other fuses to the manual and make sure they are all the correct amperage, after that I would pull the ecu fuse and check resistance in the feed side of that circuit if you have a multimeter handy. Are there any other common factors when it blows? Do you have any other aftermarket accessories? Amps, gauges, interior/exterior lighting (led's) or anything of that sorts?
04-09-11, 12:10 AM
#7
The ECU circuit *should* always be energized, even with key off for memory purposes. I would go with sc300jz's suggestion first, then if everything looks good there, check all of your other fuses to the manual and make sure they are all the correct amperage, after that I would pull the ecu fuse and check resistance in the feed side of that circuit if you have a multimeter handy. Are there any other common factors when it blows? Do you have any other aftermarket accessories? Amps, gauges, interior/exterior lighting (led's) or anything of that sorts?
My taillights are led for my half clear and red 95 tails, the only thing not led in those are the turning lights
no gauges, stock interior
looked into the wheel well and where I relocated the wiring harness to the highest spot was still untouched
but about a year ago before I relocated and was lowered my wheels did chew through the rubber coating of a wire or two which i covered with electrical tape and never gave me a problem. It never actually chewed through a whole wire
I guess ill have to check with a multimeter which I never used. What would the normal reading be? 12vs?
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04-15-11, 02:44 PM
#8
checked the wiring harness a few wires showing but nothing eaten through,
relocating it now, replaced the efi relay, 12v fuel pump ecu bypass, still blowing fuses, swapped the fuel pump from my parts sc fuel pump back to the fuel [ump that came out the car
still nothing
if its the ignition interlock causing a short imma be pisses cause I cant touch the damn thing
should i remove all the leds in my taillights and the hids in my lowbeams? after that the car will be pretty much stock electrically
relocating it now, replaced the efi relay, 12v fuel pump ecu bypass, still blowing fuses, swapped the fuel pump from my parts sc fuel pump back to the fuel [ump that came out the car
still nothing
if its the ignition interlock causing a short imma be pisses cause I cant touch the damn thing
should i remove all the leds in my taillights and the hids in my lowbeams? after that the car will be pretty much stock electrically
04-15-11, 03:55 PM
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[QUOTE=chnk;6313711]checked the wiring harness a few wires showing but nothing eaten through,
relocating it now, replaced the efi relay, 12v fuel pump ecu bypass, still blowing fuses, swapped the fuel pump from my parts sc fuel pump back to the fuel [ump that came out the car
still nothing
if its the ignition interlock causing a short imma be pisses cause I cant touch the damn thing
should i remove all the leds in my taillights and the hids in my lowbeams? after that the car will be pretty much stock electrically[/QUOTE
I heavily doubt the HID's are really causing this if they are hooked up correctly. Are they 55 or 35 watt? I would pull non-essential fuses, A/C, power seats, lights, basically everything but what is necessary to run, and if it works without blowing the fuse, start adding things back until it does, then you know where it's coming from.
relocating it now, replaced the efi relay, 12v fuel pump ecu bypass, still blowing fuses, swapped the fuel pump from my parts sc fuel pump back to the fuel [ump that came out the car
still nothing
if its the ignition interlock causing a short imma be pisses cause I cant touch the damn thing
should i remove all the leds in my taillights and the hids in my lowbeams? after that the car will be pretty much stock electrically[/QUOTE
I heavily doubt the HID's are really causing this if they are hooked up correctly. Are they 55 or 35 watt? I would pull non-essential fuses, A/C, power seats, lights, basically everything but what is necessary to run, and if it works without blowing the fuse, start adding things back until it does, then you know where it's coming from.
04-15-11, 03:58 PM
#10
[QUOTE=scottys209;6313870]
35 watt, oh ok thanks for the tip
checked the wiring harness a few wires showing but nothing eaten through,
relocating it now, replaced the efi relay, 12v fuel pump ecu bypass, still blowing fuses, swapped the fuel pump from my parts sc fuel pump back to the fuel [ump that came out the car
still nothing
if its the ignition interlock causing a short imma be pisses cause I cant touch the damn thing
should i remove all the leds in my taillights and the hids in my lowbeams? after that the car will be pretty much stock electrically[/QUOTE
I heavily doubt the HID's are really causing this if they are hooked up correctly. Are they 55 or 35 watt? I would pull non-essential fuses, A/C, power seats, lights, basically everything but what is necessary to run, and if it works without blowing the fuse, start adding things back until it does, then you know where it's coming from.
relocating it now, replaced the efi relay, 12v fuel pump ecu bypass, still blowing fuses, swapped the fuel pump from my parts sc fuel pump back to the fuel [ump that came out the car
still nothing
if its the ignition interlock causing a short imma be pisses cause I cant touch the damn thing
should i remove all the leds in my taillights and the hids in my lowbeams? after that the car will be pretty much stock electrically[/QUOTE
I heavily doubt the HID's are really causing this if they are hooked up correctly. Are they 55 or 35 watt? I would pull non-essential fuses, A/C, power seats, lights, basically everything but what is necessary to run, and if it works without blowing the fuse, start adding things back until it does, then you know where it's coming from.
04-15-11, 04:07 PM
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[QUOTE=chnk;6313875]Ya, 35 watt running with no relay is fine...... If they were 55, I'd be worried. Like I said, I'd eliminate all the unnecessary circuits and see what happens, if it fixes it, put em back in one by one till it pops again, then you've found your problem child, and work from there. If not, that circuit if effed, and we can work from there. I doubt at all it's the interlock either.
04-15-11, 04:15 PM
#12
[QUOTE=scottys209;6313904]
Ya, 35 watt running with no relay is fine...... If they were 55, I'd be worried. Like I said, I'd eliminate all the unnecessary circuits and see what happens, if it fixes it, put em back in one by one till it pops again, then you've found your problem child, and work from there. If not, that circuit if effed, and we can work from there. I doubt at all it's the interlock either.
sorry really newbie question
do i do this with the car on the off position? cause the fuse only blows when i turn the key on the on position
im thinking i put a fuse in and then turn the key on, and see if it blew
Ya, 35 watt running with no relay is fine...... If they were 55, I'd be worried. Like I said, I'd eliminate all the unnecessary circuits and see what happens, if it fixes it, put em back in one by one till it pops again, then you've found your problem child, and work from there. If not, that circuit if effed, and we can work from there. I doubt at all it's the interlock either.
do i do this with the car on the off position? cause the fuse only blows when i turn the key on the on position
im thinking i put a fuse in and then turn the key on, and see if it blew
04-15-11, 04:22 PM
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[QUOTE=chnk;6313924]Remove the non-essential circuit fuses with the key off, then replace the ecu fuse, key on the car and start, if it blows, then we need to go another direction, if not, turn the car off, start by adding one circuit fuse at a time, and start the car with each you add, when you get to where it blows, you know where the problem is. Just don't remove the fuel pump, and things like that, only do power windows, locks, lights, heated seats, stuff like that.
04-29-11, 07:30 PM
#14
quick update, still waiting on a shop manual to help me diagnose the car better havent had time to look at the car cause its finals week
one thing i did notice my check engine light it not there anymore when i turn the keys to the on position, does this mean the ecu went out on me?
one thing i did notice my check engine light it not there anymore when i turn the keys to the on position, does this mean the ecu went out on me?