VIP_LEX

iTrader: (1)

My 2jz-gte swapped Soarer has been giving me hell I've been trying to diagnose the issue with it not starting. And I'm running out of options!

2jzgte swapped engine in soarer
Oil Filter Relocation Kit
Oil Cooler
Adjustable Exhaust Cam-Gear
Jun Camshafts
Sard Adjustable Fuel Pressure Reg
Secondary Fuel Pressure Reg
Uprated intank Fuel Pump
880cc Injectors
Greddy Wastegate
HKS T51R Kai RB Turbo
HKS FconV Pro Gold

Battery is good, the car cranks well when turning over the ignition. The plugs smell of gas, so there's fuel getting there!

So far I checked the cam sensors (which are fine), checked the ignitor works fine, checked fuses on fuse panel, although the crank sensor shows lower than normal resistance.

The car was running before, but was a cold start everytime (on base tune). Then it stopped starting, I tried a few things, but flooded the engine. So I drained the oil, changed the plugs, still won't start (and now there's no spark!). What am I missing???

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

you have a standalone EMS. have you hooked it up to a laptop during cranking to see if the RPMs move? fcon V is supposed to be pretty user-friendly...
i would start by watching the EMS data while cranking it. EMSs are the best way to troubleshoot because you can see EVERYTHING.

VIP_LEX

iTrader: (1)

No, don't you need a programmed laptop to do that? I wish I could see what's going on with the EMS data... please tell me more!

trufanatic

sound exactly like my problem when i rebuilt my motor. pull the crank position sensor and change it. or pull it, cut off the rubber and make sure none of the wires are broken then check the resistance again per the service manual. i'll bet you a beer thats the problem. and if u can, ditch the standalone and try starting with a stock ecu.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

so you have a standalone EMS, but you can't see the engine data? what's the point?

VIP_LEX

iTrader: (1)

What was the resistance when you checked yours? I'm getting 1040 showing up on a cold engine, which is less than recommended in the service manual. But I talked to the guys at Toyota and they think it wouldn't be the problem if it was running before...

I have a stock Aristo too, maybe I'll just pull the crank sensor from it and try it out on the soarer and see if it's the problem. It's just a pain in the *** cause a new crank sensor is about a week away coming from the dealer!

I see where you're coming from, but I bought this car built. And I don't have any software for the V pro. Or do I need it? Can I just plug it into my laptop? how does it work? I believe it's the ver 2 pro

VIP_LEX

iTrader: (1)

So I found out that I'm getting power to the coils, and to the ignitor. There's power to the injectors too. Still won't start. I'm thinking that this narrows it down to crank sensor? As my cam sensors have good resistance. Also, my Vpro is showing a error code 41.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Tps sensor (throttle position sensor)

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

Can you hear your fuel pump turning on? You can smell fuel but it doesnt mean your fuel pump is working. You can try jumping the fuel pump with 12v and try starting it, or you can try getting a can of starer fluid spray it in the throttle body and then start it. If it starts you have a problem with fuel. This was my issue when i did my swap.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

you should do whatever you can to get some software for that v-pro.

i guarantee you could plug it into the laptop, load up the software, and see "CRANK ANGLE SENSOR --- OUT OF RANGE" or something, which would let you know it's not plugged in.

onejapman

iTrader: (10)

so did you figure out the problems?

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

so I had the same issue and it was the coolant plug. This is a fail safe for Toyota.Try this.

Get a can of starting fluid and spray it in the intake. Close everything back up and then start the car. This should be no more than 90 seconds between spray and start. You do not have to have the intake coupler on cranked down. You should start and it should idle.

If it does start and idle it means you are getting fuel (like you suspect), you are getting a signal from the crank ( since you tested it and it shows up but low).

If it does not start and idle then you now know the issue is beyond the three elements (fuel, air, time). Then I would point to the ECU\ECM or crank sensor. You swapped out the oil pans right? Did you use the aristo oil level that has the magnet? Did you put the star gear on that came with the aristo? Just making sure as that is how the ECU reads the signal - if you used your SC300 gear or oil level then that is your issue.

My issue was with the harness and the ****ty job that was done on it. That is why I do my own work...

VIP_LEX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, but would this be the issue if the car was running before??

Fuel pump is on when ignition is on, I can hear it. And the plugs are wet with fuel after turning over

No one in my province has the software for the Vpro.. nearest is 8 hours drive away... and I'm not towing it there and back for something that should be fixable without! lol

Not yet! I just installed a new crank sensor and it still won't start!

On a side note should I be getting power to the crank sensor and cam sensor with the ignition on?

Thanks for the heads up, I will give it a try and report back!

Edit: I did not do the swap on this car, it was done in japan. It was running on a basemap when I shipped it over. It did run, but again since I had some coolant leaks and I fixed them it them it doesn't start (not entirely true, it started to drive it back into the trailer, then when I brought it back to my garage it wouldn't start). Which is why I'm wondering if it is what you said about the coolant plug? Do you mean the frost plug?

VIP_LEX

iTrader: (1)

tried the starter fluid, and still not starting... so recap:

I've got power to coils but no spark, crank sensor is new, cam sensors have good resistance, ignitor works and has power, battery is full, HKS Vpro shows error code 41 which quickgs300 says it could be the TPS. So I'll look into that next I guess! Running out of options!!

I also found someone with similar problems on SF:
I'm stealing this out from another thread, since I've also noticed that the water temp gauge is maxed out with ignition on but I can't see anything about the TPS besides the error code 41 blinking on the Vpro. Also my fuel pump is running when the ignition is on!

skipjagger

iTrader: (1)

i dont konw if this is any help cause its completely not the same car(its a saturn). you mentioned something about a coolant temp sensor being incorrect? my girlfriends car had a no start problem it ended up being the coolant temp sensor. when it goes bad it tells the computer that its like minus 100 deg or something lol so the car compinsates and adds fuel waaay to much fuel so the car wont start and immediatly floods. when i flood cleared it i would get a few putts but it was just the mixture leaning up as it ran air and no fule through the motor. which i didnt realise at the time so it confused me!! and when you let back off the gas it would just flood again. your car reads all the way hot so maybe opposite is happening? also alot of cars have 2 coolant temp sensors one for the computer and one for the guage im new to the 2jz world so im just speaking from other experiences. dont beat me up if im wrong just trying to help

anyways, you said you had no spark?? are you 100% sure? if you have a timing light hook it up to any plug wire see if it blinks. if not any autoparts store sells spar testers(a few bux) they have a little clip on them to ensure a good ground. screw it in really far so the pointa are like a sixteenth apart or less see if you get a spark. make sure you clamp it to a nice clean bolt attached to the chassis or motor.

when a tps goes bad its usually in one spot and usualy like 5 or 10 percent throttle cause thats where the pedal hangs out and moves a little while on the highway and on backroads and if you move the throttle it should start try cranking it and moving the gas pedal up and down

another thing that goes un noticed alot of times is the engine ground, did you forget to hook it up while doing the swap? grab a multimeeter put it on the ohm (or how ever you spell it) setting place one lead on the engine block or intake manifold or any not rusty/pained surface on the motor and place the other lead on the batt NEG (not positive unless you wanna blow up your meeter lol) it should read .0something ohms not OL ( its been along time since auto school someone please fill in a number for me lol) ol means out of limmits meaning the resstance is so high barley any or no electricity can pass between the chassis ground and the engine block aka the spark cant get back so it wont fire.

i would have guessed the same as the other guys bad pickup/cam or crank make sure both (if they have a cam sensor??) are new for haha's i dont think there too expensive

a way to check for sure if the fuel injectors are working is again go to an auto parts store alot of them have tool rental, rent something called a noid light. there little lights that you take the fuel injector plug off the injector and plug into these lights try to start the car they blink at you just like a little tiny timing light if they blink at a regular rate then they are trying to fire.

i really hope this helps!! god luck let me know what happens!! i really wanna know


oh you cant download the program for your standalone? you can download the one for mine right on there websight.