KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Went to the track yesterday. Horrible experience all around. Took me an hour to get through the damn gate it was so busy.

Made 1 pass, 12.2 something. Had added some timing. Was pinging a bit so I let off a little around half track.

Was not running right when I parked it. Missing a bit. Decided to call it a day before I need to call AAA. Drove home (90+ miles). At idle the engine was missing ever so slightly. Probably wouldn't even notice it if it weren't for the supercharger. Slight changes in pitch at idle.

Fearing the worst I decided to do a compression check. Results:

Drivers bank

1 - 190psi
3 - 150psi
5 - 195psi
7 - 195psi

Passenger bank

2 - 180psi
4 - 190psi
6 - 185psi
8 - 90psi

Also a fair bit of oil in my intake, which is usually very clean due to the water meth injection, seen by looking through the throttle body.

I don't have a leak down tester but I was thinking about setting #3 and #8 to top dead center and putting in air pressure while listening for air in the crankcase and the cooling system. I suppose I might just need some head gaskets.

What do you guys think?

What are my options if I do end up needing a motor? Keep in mind the current engine just turned over 170,000 miles.

A 4.7 swap sounds VERY tempting but I REALLY don't have the money.

Opinions please!

KC

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

Sounds like detonation got the best of the engine I would suggest getting a vi-pec knock amp which is a set of headphones that has a knock sensor that you just screw in to the block and this is a very valuable tool for tuning on the edge!!! There are other knock detection kits out there but I have no exp with those.
It will bring your tuning game to the next level for sure.

Worth every penny!

FatBrian81

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't make any firm decisions before you get the heads off. It may be as simple as new head gaskets or it could be much worse.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

No need for headphones, I could here the knocking quite clearly.

Oil in the intake seems to be a good indication of ALLOT of blowby. I know this isn't completely unusual on an older engine anyway, then add some boost, but I have never had this problem before. It has never used oil.

I think it could possibly just be the head gaskets, I put oil into #8 and the reading DID NOT change at all. Did not try on #3

Is it possible for compression to leak into an oil port on the head? I've never personally seen this and most of the time people are worried about compression leaking into the coolant jackets.

KC

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

Ugh that sucks, I wonder what changed to cause you to go that lean? If you have a Walbro then I would most likely point the finger there as we in the evo world have had them go bad and cause lean conditions like that

Most likely cracked a ring land if I had to guess.

SC300_704

iTrader: (5)

sucks to hear about that KC. hopefully you get it all worked out. did you go to the Import Face Off in Rockingham?

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

You have meth I see so could that system not be working properly?

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure it was due to having too much timing. I had added some since the last time at the track. I guess I was already on the threshold....

Yes. Don't recommend it unless your going to watch the races and to see the show, was very busy.

KC

account2x

iTrader: (5)

What makes you believe that engine won't be totaled either?

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

The 2uz is a weak motor compared to the early 1uzs so I would rebuild the bottom end right off the batt with performance rods, pistons, bearings, rings, ect along with the use of a good set of head gaskets.

I'd then bolt on my 1uz top end and call it a day!

Right now I am mostly considering a JDM engine. I'd put some Cometic head gaskets on it and maybe some ARP head bolts and go from there.

KC

account2x

iTrader: (5)

Of course I think you would be better off with a 2JZ swap but staying on subject with the UZ I would assume the 2UZ head would flow better. Does it not also have VVT-i? I'd thinking adopting the supercharger to bolt on the 2UZ would be a better option.

edit. the 1uz has a bore of 87.5mm and stroke of 82.5mm, the 2uz a bore of 94mm and 84mm. Correct me if I am wrong but does that not mean you would have to sleeve the 2UZ block deboring it 82.5mm to fit with the 1uz head? The net gain would be only a 1.5mm increase in stroke and an iron block.

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

So the later 1uz is weaker? What is the diff between the 2?

account2x

iTrader: (5)

google search http://www.lextreme.com/rods.html

Thinner rods reduce mass improving the efficiency & power of the engine up until the point they break.

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

I know that but I was unaware that there was a diff in the 1uzfe that came in the sc400 other than of course the vvti 98+

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

I am glad this came up before I put a sc on my 97 sc400 Yea those rods are not looking good but I bet with a shotpeen and cryo treatment along with arp rod bolts that the early rods will hold some serious power.

Now I am starting to rethink this whole s/c situation...