View Poll Results: Build 1.5j or sell 2jz-GTE block?
Voters: 23. You may not vote on this poll
1.5j build?
02-05-11, 10:43 PM
#1
1.5j build?
Running a 1j currently in car:
Mod List:
-6776 turbine
-Automotive FPR
-680CC injectors
-264 in/ex cams HKS
-R154 Trans
-HKS DLI
-Greddy E-01 Boost controller
-Greddy E-Manage Blue
-Blitz Access ECU
Want to know if anyone can list the parts I need to complete the build. (I never really built a motor besides doing bolt on parts)
I already have a 2jz-gte block and i know i need: crankshaft, pistons, piston rods and rings.
Need to know what other parts am i missing to make the build complete.
Do i also have to get another harness or can i use the one in my car already?
How much money do i have to additionally spend on new parts that i don't have?
Need input on this due to if i should build my car or to just sell the GTE block I currently have.
Mod List:
-6776 turbine
-Automotive FPR
-680CC injectors
-264 in/ex cams HKS
-R154 Trans
-HKS DLI
-Greddy E-01 Boost controller
-Greddy E-Manage Blue
-Blitz Access ECU
Want to know if anyone can list the parts I need to complete the build. (I never really built a motor besides doing bolt on parts)
I already have a 2jz-gte block and i know i need: crankshaft, pistons, piston rods and rings.
Need to know what other parts am i missing to make the build complete.
Do i also have to get another harness or can i use the one in my car already?
How much money do i have to additionally spend on new parts that i don't have?
Need input on this due to if i should build my car or to just sell the GTE block I currently have.
Last edited by TRDmike; 04-05-11 at 03:02 PM.
02-06-11, 12:04 AM
#2
I was thinking about buying a SC300 and swapping a GTE head onto the GE block but once I looked at over all the parts I would need, it just didn't make any sense. Nope not at all.
I know you are basically doing the opposite so it would be easier but like I said in the other thread. The 1JZ still has worse head-flow than the 2JZ because it was designed for less displacement in mind.
Since you already have a 1jz, you got all the parts do an aristo swap. and you are single turbo too so depending on the turbo, you might even be able to reuse it. You'd just need to do something about the wiring & manifold.
If you really do want to do the 1.5jz, I can get you a GE crankshaft, piston and rods cheap. The crankshaft and the rods are identical to a GTE.
I know you are basically doing the opposite so it would be easier but like I said in the other thread. The 1JZ still has worse head-flow than the 2JZ because it was designed for less displacement in mind.
Since you already have a 1jz, you got all the parts do an aristo swap. and you are single turbo too so depending on the turbo, you might even be able to reuse it. You'd just need to do something about the wiring & manifold.
If you really do want to do the 1.5jz, I can get you a GE crankshaft, piston and rods cheap. The crankshaft and the rods are identical to a GTE.
Last edited by account2x; 02-06-11 at 05:37 AM. Reason: mistake
02-06-11, 05:23 AM
#3
I was thinking about buying a SC300 and swapping a GTE head onto the GE block but once I looked at over all the parts I would need, it just didn't make any sense. Nope not at all.
I know you are basically doing the opposite so it would be easier but like I said in the other thread. The 1JZ still has worse head-flow than the 2JZ because it was designed for less displacement in mind.
Since you already have a 1jz, you got all the parts do an aristo swap. and you are single turbo too so depending on the turbo, you might even be able to reuse it. You'd just need to do something about the wiring & manifold.
If you really do want to do the 1.5jz, I can get you a GE crankshaft, piston and rods cheap. The crankshaft and the pistons are identical to a GTE.
I know you are basically doing the opposite so it would be easier but like I said in the other thread. The 1JZ still has worse head-flow than the 2JZ because it was designed for less displacement in mind.
Since you already have a 1jz, you got all the parts do an aristo swap. and you are single turbo too so depending on the turbo, you might even be able to reuse it. You'd just need to do something about the wiring & manifold.
If you really do want to do the 1.5jz, I can get you a GE crankshaft, piston and rods cheap. The crankshaft and the pistons are identical to a GTE.
Not to sure about the Crankshaft and rods but I'm almost positive that the Pistons are not identical at all. You might want to check that out...
The GTE pistons have a provision for the oil squirters on the bottom side.
Last edited by Wicked SC; 02-06-11 at 05:27 AM.
02-06-11, 06:53 AM
#4
gte & na-t
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do the 1.5 but using the ge block its cheaper both block will hold the same power ge or gte if you asking me rebuilding a block is not cheap if you get it done correctly.
you can use the same harness and ecu, you just need to buy a couple of parts .
if you don't mind me asking why do you wanna do the 1.5jz?
there is the parts list on one of the thread I can search it right now.
you can use the same harness and ecu, you just need to buy a couple of parts .
if you don't mind me asking why do you wanna do the 1.5jz?
there is the parts list on one of the thread I can search it right now.
02-06-11, 09:07 AM
#5
do the 1.5 but using the ge block its cheaper both block will hold the same power ge or gte if you asking me rebuilding a block is not cheap if you get it done correctly.
you can use the same harness and ecu, you just need to buy a couple of parts .
if you don't mind me asking why do you wanna do the 1.5jz?
there is the parts list on one of the thread I can search it right now.
you can use the same harness and ecu, you just need to buy a couple of parts .
if you don't mind me asking why do you wanna do the 1.5jz?
there is the parts list on one of the thread I can search it right now.
Planning to do 1.5 since i already have a 1jz head and 2jz block. Trying to save myself money unless just going all out 2jz will save me more money instead.
The goal is to try and get a stable 600whp or see how much my current single t67 can push out at full psi which i think is 26psi.
If you don't mind posting the parts thread link that would be great.
02-06-11, 09:38 AM
#7
Just want to see what i can afford before my income depreciates when i plan to become a full time student after my term(active duty) is finished.
Last edited by TRDmike; 02-06-11 at 09:43 AM.
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02-06-11, 10:11 AM
#8
Your cheapest option is always to work with the engine you already have, the 1j. If you want the extra displacement of a 2j the ge version will be far cheaper to get your hands on. There are still low mileage engines available, and for a ge version you can probably find one local to you and save on shipping. Selling your gte block would offset some of the cost and you would have a complete engine ready to go.
02-06-11, 10:41 AM
#9
If TRDmike wanted 400 hp I would agree but he wants 600hp and thats pretty high. That extra .5l of displacement is really gonna help but so is head flow. IMO anything higher than mid 400s really needs to be build on a full 2jz. That's one of the reason I do not advocate a 1jz swap. Once you start building it up for anything above a mild build you regret getting it.
02-06-11, 11:10 AM
#10
Your cheapest option is always to work with the engine you already have, the 1j. If you want the extra displacement of a 2j the ge version will be far cheaper to get your hands on. There are still low mileage engines available, and for a ge version you can probably find one local to you and save on shipping. Selling your gte block would offset some of the cost and you would have a complete engine ready to go.
If TRDmike wanted 400 hp I would agree but he wants 600hp and thats pretty high. That extra .5l of displacement is really gonna help but so is head flow. IMO anything higher than mid 400s really needs to be build on a full 2jz. That's one of the reason I do not advocate a 1jz swap. Once you start building it up for anything above a mild build you regret getting it.
I just want to clear the clutter in my garage and actually use the 2jz block I have since i bought it back in Japan more than a year ago cheap and want to reduce the turbo lag a bit by putting it in. I was told by my tuner that i can push a lot more if i just go standalone ECU which seems like the cheapest option to do.
Note that this is my daily driver, honestly just want to get my car on par with a ZR1.
Last edited by TRDmike; 04-21-11 at 05:06 PM.
02-06-11, 03:23 PM
#11
Switching to a stand alone ECU will make huge difference even with your current setup. You are really pushing the limits of the stock electronics now, getting rid of the stock pieces and going to the good stuff. You may get halfway to your goal with properly tuning a stand alone EC.U
02-06-11, 03:50 PM
#12
gte & na-t
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at this point I would just do an ems and leave the current setup alone don't spend unless you have to.
hks 264 cams, 1000cc injectors, dual pumps,fuel rail,aem ems, and turn up the boost, and maybe some race gas or E85 to reach that goal but it can be done you just need an xtra 150rwhp lol with the right supporting mods you will be there.
if you were looking for 800rwhp I would tell you to do some head work but you will be fine for 600rwhp.
With 1.5jz and some cams with t67, 272 hks cams,aem ems, tt headgasket with 19 psi you should be around 550rwhp.
Don't spend the money on stuff you don't need, spend it wisely.
pm me I have a list for you.
good luck
hks 264 cams, 1000cc injectors, dual pumps,fuel rail,aem ems, and turn up the boost, and maybe some race gas or E85 to reach that goal but it can be done you just need an xtra 150rwhp lol with the right supporting mods you will be there.
if you were looking for 800rwhp I would tell you to do some head work but you will be fine for 600rwhp.
With 1.5jz and some cams with t67, 272 hks cams,aem ems, tt headgasket with 19 psi you should be around 550rwhp.
Don't spend the money on stuff you don't need, spend it wisely.
pm me I have a list for you.
good luck
02-06-11, 06:10 PM
#13
at this point I would just do an ems and leave the current setup alone don't spend unless you have to.
hks 264 cams, 1000cc injectors, dual pumps,fuel rail,aem ems, and turn up the boost, and maybe some race gas or E85 to reach that goal but it can be done you just need an xtra 150rwhp lol with the right supporting mods you will be there.
if you were looking for 800rwhp I would tell you to do some head work but you will be fine for 600rwhp.
With 1.5jz and some cams with t67, 272 hks cams,aem ems, tt headgasket with 19 psi you should be around 550rwhp.
Don't spend the money on stuff you don't need, spend it wisely.
pm me I have a list for you.
good luck
hks 264 cams, 1000cc injectors, dual pumps,fuel rail,aem ems, and turn up the boost, and maybe some race gas or E85 to reach that goal but it can be done you just need an xtra 150rwhp lol with the right supporting mods you will be there.
if you were looking for 800rwhp I would tell you to do some head work but you will be fine for 600rwhp.
With 1.5jz and some cams with t67, 272 hks cams,aem ems, tt headgasket with 19 psi you should be around 550rwhp.
Don't spend the money on stuff you don't need, spend it wisely.
pm me I have a list for you.
good luck
Shooting for 800rwhp sounds like a nice place to aim at. 550-600 with pump gas would be perfect. Will definitely send a PM.
Last edited by TRDmike; 02-06-11 at 06:20 PM.
02-07-11, 07:29 AM
#14
Even from the 1j-2j comparison, 20cfm is not a substantial difference. Sorry.
More like a novel difference, superficial difference.
All the JZ heads were designed by Yamaha, so they all rock.
On a turbo engine you are not measuring anything by CFM, you are measuring by pounds of air a minute the turbo can produce. Lbs/min.
Many people confuse this.
