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DIY: SC400 (A340E) Shift Solenoid Replacement

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Old 07-30-14, 01:58 PM
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Jasvin
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Guys,i have the same predicament.my od light throws code 63 and 67.for solenoid no 2,is it just 1 solenoid or two like in this DIY tutorial?which is which?

also,what needs to be replaced for code 67 (OD direct clutch speed sensor signal malfunction)?is it a solenoid also?

thank you.
Old 09-25-14, 09:17 PM
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Rezist89
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bump for this?
Old 09-25-14, 09:50 PM
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Rezist89
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Originally Posted by E365
Here's what you see once the pan is off.


Shift solenoids


Lock up solenoid and some other solenoid???. I had a hard-time figuring out which solenoids I needed to buy from looking at the real Toyota diagram. They listed three different "shift solenoids" and one lock up. I figured the Rostra kit had it figured out so I went with that. Plus the price. I needed to do this on-the-cheap for a guy.

im gonna order the selenoids from the ebay seller im looking into getting the filter too ive been looking in rockauto im still confused which one i need any help my car feels like crap
i own a 1995 sc300 auto what filter do i need to buy from rock auto?im also buying the trans mount/ngk spak plug wires,motor mounts from there also?
Old 10-21-14, 09:38 PM
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Rezist89
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What fluid picture of the autozone fluid?
Old 10-27-14, 06:07 AM
  #35  
Jasvin
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Guys,i have the same predicament.my od light throws code 63 and 67.for solenoid no 2,is it just 1 solenoid or two like in this DIY tutorial?which is which?

also,what needs to be replaced for code 67 (OD direct clutch speed sensor signal malfunction)?is it a solenoid also?

thank you.
Old 10-27-14, 07:55 PM
  #36  
Rezist89
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yeah i think both i got mine ebay 120 for both
Old 10-28-14, 10:11 PM
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Joey-E
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Great write up for a guy with only 5 posts. Great job and info
Old 11-03-14, 07:48 AM
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Jasvin
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what needs to be replaced for code 67 (OD direct clutch speed sensor signal malfunction)?is it a solenoid also?
Old 08-09-15, 03:00 PM
  #39  
Biddles
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My tranny is shifting between 4-5k when flooring it, shifts fine when driving normal. I bought this car as a project, and I just did the complete timing belt kit, and distributor rotors/caps, as well as a rebuilt ECU just to get it running, and now that it is of course the tranny isn't smooth. Is it possible the solenoid is the problem, even if I don't have a CEL? This is a 95 SC400 I'm referring too.
Old 06-21-18, 06:33 AM
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hermansen
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For people wanting videos on how I did this job, here you go:


......
......
.......


17 parts
Old 07-04-18, 01:41 PM
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SCDual
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Great thread.

I will I’ll be trying this on my car.
Old 01-25-24, 07:48 AM
  #42  
L1sandro
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Default Help finding OEM replacement shift solenoids for 1996 Lexus sc400

Originally Posted by E365
Old solenoids and new universal ones. You can see they are not the same design....
Attachment 435372

The kit comes with a handfull of different brackets depending on which transmission you are workign with. This is the one this transmission needed, but I did not like the fit much. I needed to enlarge the mounting holes a tad to secure the solenoids better. I'll get into that more later....
Attachment 435373

Removing them and replacing them is a breeze. The old ones are attached with a single bolt (10mm head?). Remove the bolt, unplug them from the wiring harness and pop them out of the holes they are seated in. Lightly coat the o-rings of the new solenoids with some ATF and insert them into their holes.

The bracket that's included is the only one that could possibly fit (it uses three bolts, not ones that secure the original solenoids) so it has to be the right one. The problem with the bracket is that it doesn't keep the forward-most solenoid in its mounting hole securely, hence the need to elongate the orginal hole and allow the bracket to move closer to the hole in which the solenoid mounts into. I ran into the same problem with the rear solenoid, except worse. This required two plastic washers (you can see them in the picture below) to make up the space between the bracket and back of the solenoid.

Also, when the bracket is bolted to the valve body, the bracket starts to crush the rearward solenoid, taking it out of alignment with its mounting hole. This required two washers between the valve body and rearward most mounting point of the bracket. Once I modified and shimmed the bracket I was pleased with how secure and straight the solenoids were installed. If this were my car and I was willing to pay the money for the real Toyota solenoids I would have. Especially if you are going to keep the car for a long time.
Attachment 435374

Using a new gasket (and I used Permatex Ultra Grey) mount the pan back in place. *** Make sure the dipstick tube seats into the upper portion of the dipstick tube beofre you start bolting the pan back in place *** Like this: Attachment 435375
Secure the bolts according to the Permatex label if you used it. Bead, tighten until it startes to squeeze out, wait 1 hour and tighten an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

Add the new fluid. Take car off ramps, start and run through all gears slowly. Stopping at (P)ark, check the dipstick. It should be in the cold range. If so, drive the car gently for 20+ minutes to get the transmission up to operating temp. Recheck fluid and adjust to be in the Hot range.

That worked for this car at least, no promises! "O/D Off" light does not come on at all now and it seems to shift perfectly, although my 20 miles test drive was in the snow so I couldn't push it hard. Also this car had a TRAC light (constantly on) and codes 43 and 41. The light only comes on now when traction is activated and goes out immediately after like it should (I suppose!?). Either the transmission fix fixed this, or maybe more likely, disconnecting the battery reset the computer and the system work as it should now.
Would you happen to know or be able to share a link to OEM shift solenoids for a 1996 Lexus sc400?
Old 01-25-24, 04:18 PM
  #43  
tfwnoturbo
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At this point in time it's gonna be a rough ride trying to find any new OEM solenoids. I ordered some aftermarket ones off Amazon a week or so ago and although they were way smaller than the factory ones, they bolted up and connected right up no problem and work the same as factory. I have yet to see about their longevity but I'd say it's the cleanest solution you're gonna get aside from getting some new old stock solenoids from Japan or pulling some out of a parts car.
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