How to: Trunk Lift Support w/ pics...
01-01-09, 09:46 AM
#197
Love this thread... Awesome advice! I just did mine just this past weekend on my 97... I replaced mine with the Strong Arm 4508. Though I don't have a gas stove to heat my wrench and it's short any ways to heat it. I heated the the 12mm bolts for 10 secs w/ my zippo and it just comes right off... Made me think that probably I really didn't have to use heat in the first place, but the way people here mentioned of stripping the bolts, I didn't want to push my luck. Putting on the 11mm bolts were a bit tricky though... I end up putting the bolts on first, then slide in the ball joints and push in the clips. I don't have to use my head to hold up my trunk any more... hahaha... Maybe it's the Texas heat, but it opens up slow a few times...
I replaced my supports today ... and this tutorial helped a LOT. Thank you ..
I purchased part #4508 (x2) at my local Advanceauto store for $17 each. Total cost of this project (with tax) was about $36.50. The old supports came out pretty easily BUT the hardest part of this project is removing the old ball-joints. The passenger side was a breeze while I thought I would have to cut out the driver's side. Luckily I finally got the ball joint to loosen ... without having to heat the joint.
Total time to complete project = about 30 minutes (give yourself extra time if the old ball joints are tough to loosen).
Total cost = about $36
Project complexity = 1.5 out of 5
After replacement of the Strongarm supports from Advanceauto my trunk lid rises automatically once the lid release lever is pulled. The cool factor alone is worth the $36 I spent on the project.
I HIGHLY recommend this project especially if you have had your trunk lid fall on your head ... at least once.
Good luck ...
I purchased part #4508 (x2) at my local Advanceauto store for $17 each. Total cost of this project (with tax) was about $36.50. The old supports came out pretty easily BUT the hardest part of this project is removing the old ball-joints. The passenger side was a breeze while I thought I would have to cut out the driver's side. Luckily I finally got the ball joint to loosen ... without having to heat the joint.
Total time to complete project = about 30 minutes (give yourself extra time if the old ball joints are tough to loosen).
Total cost = about $36
Project complexity = 1.5 out of 5
After replacement of the Strongarm supports from Advanceauto my trunk lid rises automatically once the lid release lever is pulled. The cool factor alone is worth the $36 I spent on the project.
I HIGHLY recommend this project especially if you have had your trunk lid fall on your head ... at least once.
Good luck ...
01-06-09, 08:46 PM
#198
Moderator
Is there a way to pop out the ball joint end?
I am trying to avoid undoing the locktited bolt. The assembly instruction is to screw in the ball piece and then snap on the cavity part of the strut.
Salim
I am trying to avoid undoing the locktited bolt. The assembly instruction is to screw in the ball piece and then snap on the cavity part of the strut.
Salim
01-23-09, 06:47 PM
#199
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waking from the dead...
i just did this. im so happy i did this. it's a HUGE difference.
now i dont have to panic if i accidentally let go of the trunk lid. i would recommend everyone to do this.
i just did this. im so happy i did this. it's a HUGE difference.
now i dont have to panic if i accidentally let go of the trunk lid. i would recommend everyone to do this.
01-23-09, 08:08 PM
#201
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01-24-09, 06:30 AM
#203
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Use a butane torch to heat up the bolt with locktite on it, protect the area behind the flame (wiring, paint etc) with aluminum foil so the heat is stopped. Give it a minute or two on a small flame and then use a spanner or appropriate key and it will come off very easily.
Done and doen
Done and doen
01-24-09, 08:00 AM
#204
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wow butane torch wd 40....you guys going through a lot of trouble for a 15min job. First off the loctied ball joints use the blue loctite and are removable. Not much harder than removing a bolt without the loctite. Second off if you want to remove the strut from the ball joint there is a metal clip and you can take a small flat head and pry it up and it will come off the ball joint. Pretty simple job.
01-24-09, 09:53 PM
#205
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There is no clip on the ball joint on some cars so you cant do that. Also blue locktite needs heat to be "killed", if you have cheap spanners and keys you will bend them without using heat. Using a butane torch on it for a min or two makes it come off like it was held on with butter.
01-27-09, 12:29 PM
#206
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ok guys.. i know this is old but i just did this 5 mins ago.. yes 5 mins ago!
i bought the strong arm from advance autoparts and they looked basically the same..
seriously u do not need to even bother wit the ball joint.! just use that one wit the new strut.
So u just pop the clip that secure the strut to the ball and unclip the other end and install the new one!
its easy
i bought the strong arm from advance autoparts and they looked basically the same..
seriously u do not need to even bother wit the ball joint.! just use that one wit the new strut.
So u just pop the clip that secure the strut to the ball and unclip the other end and install the new one!
its easy
01-27-09, 12:55 PM
#207
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There is no clip on the ball joint on some cars so you cant do that. Also blue locktite needs heat to be "killed", if you have cheap spanners and keys you will bend them without using heat. Using a butane torch on it for a min or two makes it come off like it was held on with butter.
01-29-09, 07:52 AM
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I just finished replacing mine with Strong Arm supports and I got a lot out of this thread. I could not budge the nuts on the "ball-ends" of the supports. When I tried the welded bracket would start to bend. I used a long end "grill" lighter for about 30 seconds on each nut, closer to the ball end as the bracket blocks the back end. The heat started to free up the Locktite. It took a second round of heating to really free things up. I used a 12mm wrench to loosen the original ball-end bolt. The clip end came off pretty easily with the help of a flat head screwdriver. I then used a deep 11mm socket to install the new gold ball-end bolts. It did help to remove the plastic and rubber clips. That allowed me to open that little bit extra which really helped in both removal and installation. Lastly, my original struts did NOT have any clip near the ball-end so, I had to use the new ball-end bolts that came with the new struts.
This is an excellent thread and one of the main reason I enjoy Club Lexus and get alot out of it.
Good luck!
This is an excellent thread and one of the main reason I enjoy Club Lexus and get alot out of it.
Good luck!