Low boost, low budget 1UZ single turbo setup
12-14-10, 05:14 PM
#1
Low boost, low budget 1UZ single turbo setup
This subject has been beaten beyond death, but I'm seeing somewhat of a resurgence on the topic lately....
Red phoenix, and Carlos and others are onto this idea already.
What I'd like to discuss here is a recipe for a buget turbo setup with the least amount of time, money and energy to get the extra 6 psi or so that the factory ecu and injectors have been proven to support.
My ideas so far a t3 or t3/t4 hybrid on the right hand side bank of cylinders only. That way the ac compressor isn't in the way. Just unsure of how this would effect egt on that bank and or how responsive the turbo would be vs being a restriction at high rpms and pumping hot air, high intake temps, leading to ping, etc.....
As far as a manifold, it would be acheived by using a left hand side stock manifold on the right hand side of the motor. I don't know which year/ model manifold would be the best choice however.
The setup would be non intercooled, water/meth if necessary.
How many cfm does the 4.0 liter suck at 6500 rpm?
This is sort of a bench racing exercise in a way, but i just think it would be great to have a plan for guys to take a quick route to make an extra 50-75 hp in an weekends worth of time, for less than $1500, for not much more work than cutting up one stock manifold, welding up some exhaust, and a oil supply and drain back to the oil pan.
Red phoenix, and Carlos and others are onto this idea already.
What I'd like to discuss here is a recipe for a buget turbo setup with the least amount of time, money and energy to get the extra 6 psi or so that the factory ecu and injectors have been proven to support.
My ideas so far a t3 or t3/t4 hybrid on the right hand side bank of cylinders only. That way the ac compressor isn't in the way. Just unsure of how this would effect egt on that bank and or how responsive the turbo would be vs being a restriction at high rpms and pumping hot air, high intake temps, leading to ping, etc.....
As far as a manifold, it would be acheived by using a left hand side stock manifold on the right hand side of the motor. I don't know which year/ model manifold would be the best choice however.
The setup would be non intercooled, water/meth if necessary.
How many cfm does the 4.0 liter suck at 6500 rpm?
This is sort of a bench racing exercise in a way, but i just think it would be great to have a plan for guys to take a quick route to make an extra 50-75 hp in an weekends worth of time, for less than $1500, for not much more work than cutting up one stock manifold, welding up some exhaust, and a oil supply and drain back to the oil pan.
12-14-10, 07:56 PM
#3
You know it would basically be 1/2 of a twin turbo setup, and i reckon you'd need a turbo equivant to what a 2 liter that could support 300hp worth of flow.
Gt2871r or so..... But rather something cheap like a 16g stock evo turbo (which is twin scroll so you could make a quick spool valve like sound performance does on the big singles on the 2jz.
I'm on the fence about dbb vs journal bearing w/ billet wheel $ for $, but thats a different story.
I think smaller is better in this case, to get as much responsiveness and low end which that motor lacks.
The flip side is you gotts to feed a 4 liter motor though, so the terbs can't be too small or it just won't flow enough volume of air to be of any real use. Right?
Gt2871r or so..... But rather something cheap like a 16g stock evo turbo (which is twin scroll so you could make a quick spool valve like sound performance does on the big singles on the 2jz.
I'm on the fence about dbb vs journal bearing w/ billet wheel $ for $, but thats a different story.
I think smaller is better in this case, to get as much responsiveness and low end which that motor lacks.
The flip side is you gotts to feed a 4 liter motor though, so the terbs can't be too small or it just won't flow enough volume of air to be of any real use. Right?
12-14-10, 08:13 PM
#4
More cost-effective to go journal bearing by a long shot. With 4 liters of displacement, don't worry about spool with a turbo that small.
Some of my close friends are seeing boost by mid 3's and full boost around mid 5's on a an 80mm turbo. You can image how fast the 4.0 is going to spool the 51mm of the GT2871 you have listed.
Though the 2871 may be a bit small for the 4.0, I would suggest at least a 3582 with its 61mm inducer.
Some of my close friends are seeing boost by mid 3's and full boost around mid 5's on a an 80mm turbo. You can image how fast the 4.0 is going to spool the 51mm of the GT2871 you have listed.
Though the 2871 may be a bit small for the 4.0, I would suggest at least a 3582 with its 61mm inducer.
12-14-10, 09:48 PM
#5
Interesting concept with single bank turbo'ing... But honestly, to me it feels like a easy way out and a way to put down some extra power.... but would you even run your passenger side of your car on some nice wheels but your driver side on stock? Looks good in pics, but whats the point?
A small T3 turbo will spool decently on a single bank (essentially 2L) but I think it will choke the motor in the upper rpm's.
This is all hearsay. do it and be different, but with some effort you can easily keep AC.
Matt
A small T3 turbo will spool decently on a single bank (essentially 2L) but I think it will choke the motor in the upper rpm's.
This is all hearsay. do it and be different, but with some effort you can easily keep AC.
Matt
12-14-10, 09:49 PM
#6
Only half of the cylinders will be spooling the turbo so...thats why the concern over spool.
3582 seems a bit large for only one bank. will support 600hp, were only looking for 350 tops right? steve chumo makes around that number @ 10 or 12 psi. We'll never make it to that level with the intended purpose and goal, of utilizing the untapped potential of the stock ecu/ injectors.
3582 seems a bit large for only one bank. will support 600hp, were only looking for 350 tops right? steve chumo makes around that number @ 10 or 12 psi. We'll never make it to that level with the intended purpose and goal, of utilizing the untapped potential of the stock ecu/ injectors.
12-14-10, 10:18 PM
#7
Thing is you need to put rods in it before you can go much over 10 psi anyway. You'd need to make real manifolds, plus standalone, fuel system, injectors, etc
I'm not saying its not worth it, but then for that money i'm tempted to go with ls3 and a t56. I'm just sayin.. There's like 14 different companys w/ cnc heads and cams to match. Its a lot bigger bore. And the parts are more reasonable because everybody is doing it. It makes me stop and think, thats all i'm saying.....
I have a spare 1uz laying around i was thinking of doing a mega squirt on an engine stand to get my feet wet with stand alone. Once i got that going, i'd feel more comfortable about going the Ryan route. I feel bad for him, he's ***** deep in his project and ready to run and no one to tune it.
I'm not saying its not worth it, but then for that money i'm tempted to go with ls3 and a t56. I'm just sayin.. There's like 14 different companys w/ cnc heads and cams to match. Its a lot bigger bore. And the parts are more reasonable because everybody is doing it. It makes me stop and think, thats all i'm saying.....
I have a spare 1uz laying around i was thinking of doing a mega squirt on an engine stand to get my feet wet with stand alone. Once i got that going, i'd feel more comfortable about going the Ryan route. I feel bad for him, he's ***** deep in his project and ready to run and no one to tune it.
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12-14-10, 11:32 PM
#8
Sounds a lot like the setup SteveChumo went with like 3 years ago.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...d-running.html
Using 1 stock header and the fabricated header
Did some current price checking since it's been 3 years.
Garrett turbo: journal bearing T60, T04E, or T62 = $500-$600
Wastegate: HKS = $150
BOV: HKS = $50
FMU: $100
Manifold fabrication???
Catalytic Converters (cheap brand) = $70
Mufflers (cheap brand) = $100
Exhaust resonators (cheap brand) = $70
Labor to complete the exhaust system including the downpipe = $??
Other accessory parts such as oil lines, fuel lines, gaskets... = $150
Heat wrap = $60
Fan swap to electric fans = $150
The manifold seems the priciest
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...d-running.html
Using 1 stock header and the fabricated header
Did some current price checking since it's been 3 years.
Garrett turbo: journal bearing T60, T04E, or T62 = $500-$600
Wastegate: HKS = $150
BOV: HKS = $50
FMU: $100
Manifold fabrication???
Catalytic Converters (cheap brand) = $70
Mufflers (cheap brand) = $100
Exhaust resonators (cheap brand) = $70
Labor to complete the exhaust system including the downpipe = $??
Other accessory parts such as oil lines, fuel lines, gaskets... = $150
Heat wrap = $60
Fan swap to electric fans = $150
The manifold seems the priciest
12-15-10, 09:24 AM
#9
remember you don't have 4 liters of displacement spooling that turbo,
you pretty much have only 2 liters spooling the turbo on one bank.
Its pretty simple, I would just grab a good turbo for a 2 liter motor, like an upgraded turbo for an SR or even just use 1 of the 2jz-gte stock twins.
It will run just fine for under 10 psi. there is no need to do the second bank to run 10 psi if you think about it, you may get faster spool but its currently not worth it (unless it much was easier) if you cant up the boost to 20 lbs without tearing into the motor.
you pretty much have only 2 liters spooling the turbo on one bank.
Its pretty simple, I would just grab a good turbo for a 2 liter motor, like an upgraded turbo for an SR or even just use 1 of the 2jz-gte stock twins.
It will run just fine for under 10 psi. there is no need to do the second bank to run 10 psi if you think about it, you may get faster spool but its currently not worth it (unless it much was easier) if you cant up the boost to 20 lbs without tearing into the motor.
12-15-10, 11:00 AM
#10
Exactly, only 2 liters of potential spool, feeding a 4.0 liter motor. Run as much boost as can be supported with stock fuel pump, injectors, ecu, maf. 6-7 psi is a guess.... Wideband will tell the tale.
No intercooler, no bov, internal wastegate, manual boost controller. Maybe a water meth setup for real hot days.
Hopefully tie the down pipe back into the same factory exhaust. 3rd cat delete, add x pipe, remove resonators and use stock or aftermzrket rear mufflers.
Should be as good as a m90 setup for a lot less coin.
No intercooler, no bov, internal wastegate, manual boost controller. Maybe a water meth setup for real hot days.
Hopefully tie the down pipe back into the same factory exhaust. 3rd cat delete, add x pipe, remove resonators and use stock or aftermzrket rear mufflers.
Should be as good as a m90 setup for a lot less coin.
12-15-10, 11:41 AM
#13
Exactly, only 2 liters of potential spool, feeding a 4.0 liter motor. Run as much boost as can be supported with stock fuel pump, injectors, ecu, maf. 6-7 psi is a guess.... Wideband will tell the tale.
No intercooler, no bov, internal wastegate, manual boost controller. Maybe a water meth setup for real hot days.
Hopefully tie the down pipe back into the same factory exhaust. 3rd cat delete, add x pipe, remove resonators and use stock or aftermzrket rear mufflers.
Should be as good as a m90 setup for a lot less coin.
No intercooler, no bov, internal wastegate, manual boost controller. Maybe a water meth setup for real hot days.
Hopefully tie the down pipe back into the same factory exhaust. 3rd cat delete, add x pipe, remove resonators and use stock or aftermzrket rear mufflers.
Should be as good as a m90 setup for a lot less coin.
lol, lets not bring saabs into the mix
I just had this crazy thought, what if you ran high compression on the N/A bank.
And low compression on the Turbo Bank.
Is that even possible??? best of both worlds???
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-15-10 at 11:47 AM.
12-15-10, 12:21 PM
#14
Both banks get fed evenly... No need to do high comp on one side, low comp on other unless you had a seperate intakes... That would be a silly motor haha
You'd have higher egts on the turbo side and more back pressure on that side, but i doubt it would amount to much of a differnece.
You'd have higher egts on the turbo side and more back pressure on that side, but i doubt it would amount to much of a differnece.